sirtokesalot

is it possible to push the hub out without destroying the bearing?

i am quite serious here. i do have a complete doner car to pull any electrics from is it possible?

what stops it from working is it just the electrical or is there something that physically wont fit and work as well?

heres the reason the legacy is not an option to me. the rest of the car is just as bad underneath and currently that section is held together with bed frames welded across the gap sheet metal to fill holes and construction adhesive. and yes that is a fence post holding the tower shived over where it belongs.

heres some pics if the impreza

well it was more than just the cluster. i kinda dont like the impreza dash i tihnk its a bit ugly compared to the legacy dash. i did mesure the dash length left to right and seemed the same length the door panels reason to want to change those is due to previous owner cutting holes for speakers and there all chopped up and dirty beige color with cloth inserts. im not a fan of the cloth at all and dont think the black leather would look right with a beige dash and trim. it basically needs a whole interior and well i have the legacy. second question thogh if i dont swap this stuff will the 95 2.2 work int he 98 impreza? i noticed the impreza 2.2 has the single port exhaust but is that all thats different?

im very much thinking of it. will the dash and door panels physically fit? im willing to swap hvac and wiring harnesses if needed to make it work. the cars not in bad shape rust wise i mean theres some but its still savable and will be doing the rust repairs before everything gets swapped arround.

so this is if i decide to build it still but how much of the 1998 legacy outback is interchangeable with the 1998 impreza outback? i kinda dont like the impreza dashboard will the legacy dashboard fit into the impreza and work electronically like the climate control? seats as well. the impreza has cloth i want my leather door panels trim panels how much will actually cross over?

well i attempted to drive it and only made it 2 miles to my dads house instead of the 13 miles to where it needed to go it was overheating thanks traffic. ended up getting it aaa towed the rest of the way. it ran like crap too and was also smoking out the exhaust thankfully im not using that engine if i fix the car. next day im not working im planning to get back over to the car and get underneath it and inspect it for major rust as long as theres not any its getting built up in place of my current outback.

ive heard removing the thermostat will make it run without overheating if it has a bad head gasket. is this true?

im possibly going to be picking up a free 1998 imprezza outback tomarrow im told it overheats. i dont want to use this engine i have another car with sevear rust issues i will be using that cars engine. is there anything i can do to make the car run without overheating for maby 10 to 15 miles?

when mine died the car started and drove 10 feet then cut out and stalled would not start again until i banged on the top of the pump unit a few times then it started again ran another 5 or 10 seconds and died again. no matter what happened it wouldent stay running unless i was tapping on the top of the pump unit with a long bar from the front seat.

nevermind i took the plastic end off and it pulled out after that then clamped it there and put the plastic end back on it.

well this all started because the shock tower rotted out and started collapsing. with some creative metal placement and such was able to get the tower solid again but had to remove seat belt in the process the seat belt retracted nearly all the way in now and will not pull back out. is there some kind of trick to get it back out again? and no i dont plan to keep the car forever i am looking for a new body but have a bit of time now with the repairs i did. i just want it to go back together for now.

i have had great success gluing the studs back on a side view mirror using gorilla glue. friends kids hit it with a bike and snapped all 3 mounting studs off the mirror. took the studs out gorilla glue and sit studs in place have to clamp whatever u gluing because the gorilla glue will expand. this was 4 years ago. the mirror is till on the door. ive also used gorilla glue to put the mounting tabs back onto a hub cap on my car. it stayed there all winter now.

well this is how i managed to get it to run in delay mode using the original wiring and motor. in run mode it is intermittent and as far as i can tell wash mode was using the same wire so cannot get full cycle to run for wash it also runs intermittent so to get a second swipe or 3rd swipe in wash have to shut off and cycle again. i might go back in later and do some relay trickery to make it run full time for wash cycle but for now im leaving it as is. however as far as that goes the brown wire is the full cycle and if its connected to the spot where the black and green wire are going it runs full cycle. my idea is a relay to connect the brown wire to the black and green that would be triggered off the washer pump in front so when the washer pump is running the relay would connect the wires and run it full cycle constant. oh and this went into a 1998 outback relay from a 2002 forester.

nevermind i stripped the harness down and found out the black wire from the motor was on another plug. its working now

i have the rear wiper delay relay harness and motor from a 2002 forester ive been trying to figure out for hours i want to get it running and install it into my 98 outback so i can have the intermittent rear wiper however i cannot for the life of me figure out how to wire it as no matter how i search in google there is no wiring into on how to wire it to the car. does anyone have a wiring diagram / relay pinout for a 2002 forester or really any model with the intermittent rear wiper relay?

well i got it done however one stud snapped car runs again now with pump changed. do u think this will be an issue? i still have the tank from the forester if it will fit.

Yea j took my other car to work had to charge the battery and put gas in it thogh it's been parked since winter started. but yes 8 of the 10 nuts just rounded over was thinking I might be able to hammer a smaller size onto them but wont know till I try later.

ok have the problem located new issue the fuel pump nuts are all round 2 sizes smaller and wont come out anyone have any ideas how to remove them? car only cranks no sign of life but if i bang mon the tank or fuel pump it stumbles and tried but wont stay running i believe the fuel pump went

hello i need ideas what to check please i am late for work allready called them as i was pulling out of the driveway my 1998 outback ej22 stumbled and stalled rolled back into the driveway and is now a crank no start what can i check to try and fix this? does the 98's have the fuel pump issues like the newer 2000 cars?

i have a theory why that code comes on so many cars but not on others. the cats on my car had the o2 sensors setup one before the cat and one in between the 2 cats none at the end. when i replaced mine i used the cats from my 95 witch had abotut he same miles on them but did not give a 420 code the o2 sensors on the 95 cats are in front of the first cat and behind the second cat. so my theory here is what if u got an o2 sensor bung and had it welded on behind the second cat plug the one in the center and move the o2 sensor behind the second cat would possibly correct the issue?

ive seen the hose clamps on the filter leak from being loose on 3 different outbacks so far id check there.

ooo yes i missed it was a just legacy and not outback. im not sure if they will fit that car.