sirtokesalot

ooo yes i missed it was a just legacy and not outback. im not sure if they will fit that car.

i have a 1998 outback and can tell you that 205 55 r16 fit on mine great and do not rub anything speedo shows faster than really going though but not off much 215 60r16 also fit but very close and on mine they will rub on the mud flaps speedo way off using that tire.

nope. ive done the lower ball joints and inner/outer tie rods rotors brakes ive come to the thoght that maby its play in the steering rack it does have slight up down movement in it. i have another rack but haven't put it in yet been lazy with it and just driving it like that.

thank you. i got the car today drove it to friends house running on 3 cylinders or maby 2 and a half i dont know just know it ran like crap. trans shifted great thogh and went into all gears so its def getting pulled for my moms outback. im also planning to pull the calipers off for spares on my car as well as the axles starter alternator and most likely save the diff as well the rest will be going to scrap. if the junk yard will take it without wheels and suspension i might take the shocks and springs too for a lift on my 1998 outback.

will the transmission from a 2001 forester work in a 2001 outback? im picking up a free parts car today mainly for the transmission. it runs but on 3 cylenders and its kinda beat up cars not worth repairing.

is it a manual? not sure if the 95-99 radiator would work but i have one was ment for an auto but the trans cooler fittings leak radiator holds coolant would be great for a manual 20 bucks its a newer radiator boght from junk yard car because it appeared to have been replaced recently then found the trans cooler leaked trans fluid externally from the fittings and couldent get it to stop.

i thought 95-98 was same am i wrong? i have a 95 engine and trans in my 98 outback.

yes it had done the ticking once before and once after an oil change

does anyone know of a good video showing how to remove the lifter? i have a spare head for parts that did not tick before the timing pulley seized snapping the camshaft off in it.

I can say no ticking after it sat 4 hours until my lunch break seems to be intermittent after its sat overnight it sounds alot like a valve tick next time I hear it I'm going to try to get a video.

I noticed the other day a tick when I started the engine that went away within a few seconds and today that same tick was back and I did not notice it right away I had driven about a half mile before I noticed it.sounds like a valve tick once I noticed it I free revved the engine once in neutral and the tick went away and was silent normal running from there to work. Should I be worried about it? Is there anything I could do about it? This is on a 1998 outback with the 1995 2.2 engine

or worst snapping the cam end off leaving the belt in tact

ditch the k&n it doesn't filter as good as a quality paper filter and ive seen them cause issues from the oil in the filter getting on the maf and causing running issues. ive also seen a nice dusting of dirt inside the throttle body after using k&n filters for long periods of time.

ive had the cogged pulley seize on my 2.2 engine causing the belt to yank the cam so hard it snapped off and had to replace the head and belt/pulleys my friends 2.5 had the bearing completely disintegrate on the smooth idler causing it to jump out of time and make a serious racket but did not damage valves and he was able to just replace the pulleys and belt.

well when i would post it on Craigslist it will have a new used transmission in it and would drive fine again im basically trying to figure out what i should ask for it with everything working and all the recent work done.

rear subframe was in good shape the transmission is done its making a loud clunking sound when it is in gear moving and gets faster with more speed. they thought it was an axle or u-joint but it got alot worst very fast and the shop they brought it to said it was coming from inside the transmission. i cant check it personelly as my mom brought the car back to vermont and it would need to be trailered back here for me to put a transmission in it. my plan here was to get the car here grab the transmission from my friends blown up 2001 3 cylinder forester and drop it into this outback. i can get the transmission for basically free id have to change a few parts on his car in exchange for it.

i did the head gaskets and yes the heads were machined flat. i did not want a failure on moms car. unfortunately i did not see the transmission failure coming it drove great for the 3 weeks i drove it after the head gaskets before i gave it back to her. i had also repaired all other issues it had while i had the car including replacing missing trim parts from the interior. when i got the car she said to do the head gaskets witch i did then proceeded to clean the car fix the burnt out dash bulbs find and replace missing rear headrests found a rear hatch panel installed newer subaru radio and tweeters swapped plastic window switch trim for wood had fuel pump failure and put new used pump from one of there parts cars wet sanded and polished both headlights replaced upper coolant hose new timing belt and water pump no check engine light came on in the time before trans failure and all emissions monitors were ready when i gave the car back to her.

i currently do not have pictures of the car but i can do my best to describe it. it is a 2001 outback has the wood trim interior is clean complete all working exterior is ok has some scratches and dings poor rust repair in the rear but solid 180,000 miles new head gaskets last month my mom wants nothing more to do with it and is tired of putting money into it the transmission failed. i want to buy it from her for the 500 she wants and put a trans in it then sell it what should i ask for if i do this? i was thinking it could be worth around 1800 in its current shape with everything mechanically and electrically working with new head gaskets am i right on this price?

sounds like water pump or t-stat housing. closely inspect the area i suspect you should be able to see a wet spot where its coming from. it could even be a loose hose clamp on the lower hose.

if i need a jack in the yard i just rummage throgh other cars until i find a jack in the trunk somewhere.

update it passed emissions yesterday.

dont use armor all unless u plan to use it religiously. if you use it then stop using it armor all will cause it to crack faster.

well i figured out a way to make it work. the wiring harness in the rear had been messed with before every wire at the 2 main connectors to go to the hatch was spliced and crimp connectored with tape around them. i did manage to find the gound wire that signals when the doors open at the main plug and followed it up tot he top and spliced into it / extended it to the light. 2 of those 4 wires that were at the light were not connected to anything they were simply cut off about 12 inches into the ceiling from the light.

well i replaced the whole light assembly with a known working one and i still have no door light function from the rear light. it works with the switch on but not on door still. i did notice the front light comes on when i open the hatch today as well. as a side note i took the one from my moms car and put it into my 1998 outback and it worked in my car. i did some more digging into the wiring and theres for some reason 4 wires under that light. 2 of them come in from the hole the light slides out of and 2 other ones coming in from the side both sets of wires appear to be factory one of them was cut and spliced into the other one. i dont know maby ill just add a new wire to the door switch side of the light from what ever wire it is thats working the front light so the rear will work too.

ill have to check these out. wouldn't the fact that the hatch ajar light comes on mean that the wire in that loom is ok or is there a separate wire for the cargo light vs the hatch ajar light?