sirtokesalot

so ive been fixing everytihng i find wrong on moms car before she takes it back on monday. when i open the rear hatch the light in the cargo area will not come on. the hatch ajar light in the dash does come on when the hatch is open and the rear cargo light does turn on if i click the switch to on but wont come on when the door is open. is this some kind of common issue could someone possibly point me int he direction to fix this?

this car is fighting to stay dead.so first it was head gaskets then the transmission issue. after that it drove 8 miles home sat for 40 minutes and then wouldent start. that metal cap with the o-ring on the fuel pump popped off and blew the o-ring out. so fuel pump came out re attached the cap and bent the metal tab back stuck a hose clamp around it and it ran again managed to put 80 miles on it. my step dad is gonna bring another fuel pump from the parts car when they come to pick it up next week.

problem solved it was a broken wire in the transmission. thank you everyone who chimed in about this.

its lit solid until i start the car and then its just constant flashing at the same rate never stops. im thinking im going to just get the pan gasket and some fluid pull the pan and inspect it.

there is no cel on only flashing at oil temp light.

ill have to get the tcu code next time im there i left the car 7 miles away at my uncles garage. i did not want to drive it far with that light blinking. i so far only drove it about a mile to see if there was torque bind (there is not) and transmission seemed to shift fine throgh all gears and again to move it out of the garage to a parking space so the car wasent in my uncles way.

hmmm there is a small dent in the pan i had a jack under it because i dident want the trans to drop down on the frame when the engine separated from it but i also used a 2x6 board from end to end of the pan so i wouldent push in the center. i cannot remember if the dent was in the pan before or not. i was thinking this could be an issue but wasent sure the dent is not very big.

so i got my moms outback back together today had the engine out for head gaskets timing belt and water pump. everything went well until i went to start it up. the engine runs great however the at oil temp light is now flashing constantly. it does not seem to be experiencing torque bind and seems to drive just like all the other subarus ive driven. what can cause the light to flash constantly? i did not touch any of the transmission connections with exception of the 2 cooler lines at the radiator. is it safe to drive it with the at oil temp light flashing? i would like to get it back home now that the engine back together. its in my uncles garage 7 miles away. fwd fuse did nothing but car was running when i put it in. i took it back out because it did not change the symptom.

i am doing head gaskets on my moms 2001 outback and i need the torque procedure for the heads.

well i messed with it again today couldn't stop the leak i could get it to a very slow seeping if i added a rubber washer but no matter how much i tighten it it still leaks. im about to give up and run it with only the external cooler for now. i have a point and click temp gun whats is considered too hot for transmission fluid? i would be pointing the temp gun at the bottom of the trans pan. this way i can watch how hot it gets after a few trips and see if it is enough cooling for it.

well the point is that i have an external cooler already. i figured it out myself i just drove it there and pulled over regularly and checked the trans temp at the pan with a point and click temp gun. unfortunately the fitting on the old radiator is not the same so i messed with the flare end a bit and got it to i tihnk seal up. the trans actually runs around 40 degrees hotter using the radiator cooler vs the 4 inch by 10 inch external cooler. im going to run it throght he radiator cooler a few days to be sure its not leaking then im probly going to hook up the external cooler in line with it as well as long as no leaks from the original one.

anyone? i need to know if it would damage the trans to drive it about 20 miles with only the external cooler i installed. i want to get to my friends house so i can get the fitting thats leaking from my old radiator. the cooler is 4 inches wide by 10 inches long and its mounted right behind the grill so it gets airflow blown right throgh it.

is it a bad idea to bypass the cooler in the radiator and run an external cooler in front of the radiators? would it damage the trans to run it with just an external cooler? the cooler on my radiator has decided it doesent want to hold the fluid in it at the elbow connection.

well had to reset the light after the cat was changed due to a code now everything except ev is ready 130 miles driven ev wont ready up again now. what does the evap system look for to allow the evap monitor to ready?

i think i might have answered this myself by just doing it. once i put the extension on and hooked up the rear o2 / cleared the code the catalyst system readied up within 10 miles. currently im down to only the ev system flashing now witch was ready the other day so its just a matter of time before it should all be ready and i can get it into emissions.

i have a 1998 outback today i changed the exhaust. i saved the cats from my 1995 legacy because the ones on the 1998 outback i had a feeling were failing. when i put them on today i realized they were actually different the 1995 cats were a single part from the header to the cat back section where as the 1998 outbacks were 2 pieces. the o2 sensors were also in different locations. will the older 1995 cats work in my situation? its all bolted in now the only thing left is to make a extension cable to plug in the rear o2 sensor due to it being farther back and it does not reach the plug. my plan is to make a male to female extension plug to plug in the rear o2 sensor. i changed them due to the p0420 code and the catylist system never readying and i know for sure the 95 cats worked.

i finally got one of the 2 to ready up. was so excited to see the ev status being ready when i checked it today only the c system is not ready now and once i swap the cats and o2's into it from my old car that system should ready up as well. its going to pass emissions

new question same topic. would the 2002 forester transmission work in a 99 outback? i know someone that could use the transmission and would buy it if it fits.

i have a 1998 outback it originally had the 4.44 gear ratio but the original trans had a hard shift from 3rd to 4rth and the diff whined very loud i swapped them when i did the 2.2 swap and put the 3.9x ratio diff and trans in.it works fine and has been in for almost 2 years now but i dont like how sluggish it is to accelerate and how hard it is to keep speed the original trans was able to move the car around much easier. would the auto trans from a 2002 forester fit into my 1998 outback? i have a friend with a forester that has a bad engine and could probly get the transmission cheap. i had driven his car before the engine went and know it shifted very good and had no sounds to whines i could detect.

well i ordered one on ebay. i tried.

mine was tucked way up behind the fuse box area. they don't always put them in easy to find spots or in my case even mount them to something. i also have a 98 outback.

yep i grabbed the knock sensor from my friends 2001 parts car and re pinned it into my old ones connector. it was a one wire knock sensor like the one that came off. problems fixed.

can the knock sensor just fail out of the blue? i have a 1995 legacy 2.2 in a 1998 outback the car drove perfectly normal last time i drove it and this morning when i tried to take it to work it had no power and a p0325 knock sensor code that if i erased would come right back.

i have attached a picture of the ecu i have. this is the old one but i replaced it with one of the same model ecu's does anyone know if this is the type that these systems wont ready?

i am not sure the original ecu failed and i had to replace it with a used one but im not sure what year it came from all i know is that it was the same number ecu as what was in there originally. the car is a 1998 but again not sure what year car the ecu came from. i have not tried to take it to emissions yet ive been putting that off until i need to re register the car becuase ct will allow one fail if its the first fail and still let you re register the car.