sirtokesalot

it started in park today maby it was just the -4 degree weather we had.

Pretty much as the title says. It starts in Neutral but won't start in park. it is very cold outside could that effect anything?

get a 12v light bulb unhook the positive battery terminal hook one end of the light bulb up to the battery cable and the other end of the light bulb to the battery terminal. the bulb will be glowing if u have a drain occurring. start removing fuses one at a time until the bulb goes out. relays can cause drains as well ive seen it so pull relays as well. when u find the fuse that is causing the drain then u have to go through that circuit and start un plugging the items on that circuit one by one until the light goes out again and that would be the source of your drain.

why not just use the 2.2?

i had this happen to the drivers wiper mine was a broken bushing on the wiper linkage. it was raining too so i had to do something at that moment so i took the drivers wiper off then re positioned the passenger wiper so when it would turn on it would wipe the drivers side but it would be sticking strait up when it was parked.

ill have to get new idlers when funds are more available for now these should work for the winter or at least thats my hope. the idlers did still have resistance to them like there was still grease in them they felt very new. im about 250 miles since the rebuild and everything is working great oil level is still right where it was when i filled it getting a slightly better mpg than before and it runs much smoother than before i have a feeling that the car needed head gaskets before the head issue occurred even though it did not overheat.

last update got a junk yard head this morning from a wrecked 93 legacy it had new idlers and timing belt on it so i took those as well. cleaned my engine up re sealed the plate on the rear of the engine new head gaskets new valve cover gaskets new cam seals put it all together and it is running great. im actually able to say it runs better than it ever has while i owned it and runs cooler on the temp gauge than it had previously. im so happy i dont have to worry about checking the oil daily anymore. im still going to check the fluids for a few weeks but as long as it stays up ill be able to back off on the daily checks and possibly go to weekly or bi weekly checks.

well we pulled the head apart last ngith and ive decided to just throw a new used head on it and call it a day. there is no evidence of oil starvation everything im seeing is pointing twared that seized pulley as the cause to the whole mess.

Have some fun with it. Put some inside of a microwave record it and set them off

those 2 engines were sold. there are no other engines around in the state at the moment. im thinking im going to just throw a junk yard head on it. i feel like that cogged gear was seizing putting extra strain on the cam and the extra pressure along with it suddenly stopping caused the cam to snap. at least im hoping this is the cause because the inside is not chewed up like it was wearing the metal from lack of oil. im going to put another oil pump on it for good measure as well just in case it is weak.

well the engines out now i took a few pictures but dident take it apart that far im waiting on a friend of mine to come down on tuesday after work to help me tear the engine apart and inspect it closer. heres a few pictures for now when i drained the oil i did not find any metal in the oil there was some metallic look to the oil inside of the filter but again no large bits just a slight metal look in the oil but i only saw it inside of the filter. this pulley seized could this idler seizing have anything to do with the cam snapping?

tomarrow morning im going to head over where the car is to pull the engine out. i might tear it apart if i have time tomarrow but it might not get torn apart until monday or tuesday. and yes i am located in connecticut

https://hartford.craigslist.org/pts/d/subaru-22-engines-1996/6401306277.html should i maby just buy these? 200 for 2 ej22 1996 engines unknown miles would it be worth the chance?

will do at the moment im thinking ither Sunday or Tuesday will be the next time im there to start tearing it apart. i will update with what i find. the belt is still in tact from what i can tell and is just pushed over inside the center cover the cam did not want to turn when i tried to move it but i did not stick a wrench on it.

i dont have money for another engine. if this moter is hopeless it might not be fixed for quite a long time. it did not make any bad sounds before it let go just a light squeaking sound when it would idle down witch to me sounded like a bad idler bearing. i was cruising slowly when it let go maby 1,500 or 2000 rpm in gear it just lost power and the engine light came on no throttle response then all the other lights came on. it was not knocking prior to the incident either. i cannot check anything on it now as i had it towed to my uncles house where the heated garage is.

engine has around 220,000 it had oil in it and the pressure light never came on i had just done an oil change about 600 miles ago and check it daily due to having a leak.

do i need heads from another 95 2.2? what other year subaru heads can i use on the 1995 legacy l 2.2 engine?

im pretty sure i cannot save the head what exactly happened to cause this thogh. the passenger cam is no longer strait with the head its cocked over at an angle. im guessing it needs new heads would like confirmation. what caused this to happen? this is an ej22 so the valves shouldent have contacted the pistons.

he put an aftermarket cat on it. aftermarket cats suck your lucky it lasted 3 years it needs a replacement.

ive used a wrench to get the o2 sensor out successfully on an 03 outback should work on the 2000 take the o2 sensor out and go for a drive without it installed it will be loud as hell but if it has power without the o2 sensor installed its a plugged exhaust. take the front sensor out.

there is no feel through the wheel just the sound. it seems to be coming from somewhere inside the column and only happens when it is cold outside as im driving and the heat warms up the car the sound stops and wont come back until the inside of the car cools back down.

any ideas? i lubed what i could find inside the column but it still makes this sound.

i think they can be used on either side i think only front or back makes a difference left and right is possible to swap them? someone will chime in with the correct answer on this im sure.

ive nursed a rear cv along for years by repacking it with grease. it was clicking under loads going strait and turning. boot was missing completely i packed grease into it used a contractor garbage bag cut a piece out wrapped it around the cv end zip tied it in place and packed extra grease into it for good measure. that cv shut its self up for the next year and a half until i scrapped the car.

so my car 1998 outback has been making this rubbing sound from the column when its cold. as the inside of the car warms up the sound goes away. what can be causing it? video is of the sound it happens when turning left only and no sound when turning right. video is for sound purposes when it goes blank i had the camera right on the column.