sirtokesalot

i just went out and ohmed the yellow with green stripe wire on both the legacy and the outback i get similar readings from both cars. of course on the outback the light stopped blinking after driving it home in fwd.

79: Transfer duty solenoid. Detects open or shorted output signal circuit. same code it always gives and i have tried changing solenoids on previous transmissions without any long term results.

its back. ive changed the transmission 3 times now and the tcu a few times as well. im thinking i may have a wiring problem. would the engine/dashboard wiring harnesses from a 2001 legacy gt work in my 2001 outback? would i need to use the legacy ecu with the legacy harness or could i just use all of my cars computers with the gt's wiring harness?

still getting the p1591 neutral position switch circuit low input every second start i tryed swapping the inhibitor switch and ecu get same code. what is it the ecu wants to see from the neutral position switch and can i just feed that to it so the code will just never set? the car does start in park or neutral as well.

i undid my bypass earlier and the car is now setting that code with or without the bypass.

so when u did the hot wire thing how did u wire it? in my car i left the stock wiring there and simply added a second system to help the factory setup work. my system is just wired in along side the factory wiring. relay trigger is the key to start position relay gets power from battery and is passed through right to the starter spade post. i left the factory wire attached there as well. my wire is actually attached simply by holding it over the post and plugging the factory wire in so it folded my wire around the tab and is held there just by the fact that the factory wire is plugged in.

my bad it is an automatic.

for a while ive been having a delayed start issue and the other day the key would not start it. i ran a jumper wire from the starter that hung out next to the battery and was turning the key on and touching the wire to the battery to get it started. yesterday i took and wired the ignition switch into a relay so that when i turn the key to crank it would click a relay on and jump the battery positive directly to the starter. this has made the car start reliably again by the key but now im getting a cel code every other start for a p1591 neutral position switch circuit low inpuit that i was not getting before and the wiring diagram does not show a neutral position switch in the circuit. i dont really get it because turning the key on and jumping it manually at the battery would not trigger this code but having a relay jump the starter automatically does. how can i make the cel not come on again and reliably have the car start?

it raises and lowers pretty good. the blade is just a plastic 55 gallon drum cut in half riveted together in the center and has some metal bolted through the back of it. the blade is an actual plow blade though. it weighs the car down pretty good when lifted up. the car is literally built of all the crap leftovers that were deemed to worn out for a daily driver for the sole purpose of being a yard mule. has an overheated block and very sludgy heads from another engine. 15 dollar head gaskets every bushing and ball joint is worn rear end is smashed from an accident prior to me getting it and trunk leaks water. i have the duty c solenoid on a switch so i can manually put the car into locked awd and the airbag fuse pulled out. its filled with all used fluids and has ran longer than weve expected it to. its hauled 1000's of pounds of fire wood and plowed the driveway 2 years so far and still seems to run fine.

Will it come apart? The car never leaves the driveway and never gets over 15mph

i pulled the plugs out from the tops of the struts and poured oil into then filling them to the top and stuck the plugs back on. steering got much easier to turn after. how long u think it will last?

i soaked that joint in pb blaster and had no effect.

it does get driven twice a week up and down the driveway we use it to pull the trash cans up the hill as well. pulleys are decent looking no rust in the groove sections. it was another used belt. i have something like 10 of them around.

the belt is old but does not seem to be slipping. i did try a different belt as well.

my plow cars steering is acting up. started mid winter did not wanna deal with it then and the times come to figure it out. the steering is tight then easy then tight then easy from lock to lock theres no pump whine and i did try swapping the pump for another one i had on the shelf from a tear down. is it possible something could be binding or more likely the rack?

the car made it 1100 miles to and from my mas in vermont over the weekend issue did not return.

ah i had thoght with the o2 unplugged the car would just run at a default value in open loop. ill probly just buy an o2 sensor anyways seeing as its probly original. ive never changed it.

so if it starts missing and acting up again would resetting the ecu and unplugging the front o2 sensor be a good test to see if the sensor is an issue? drive it with the o2 unplugged and if the symptom doesn't return with it unplugged then assume the o2 is bad?

this one is not as important being a yard car i plow with in the winter. over this past winter the wipers stopped working on low and intermittent only work on highest speed and will not park. they simply stop wherever they are when u shut the switch off. is there a common failure or somthing simple and cheap i could do to fix it? if its not a cheap oir free fix ill likely just deal with it seeing as the car is not ever going on the road again.

i swapped the clock spring out and it fixed the airbag light.

i only pulled the stuff connected to the drivers side head. breather tube spark plug wires took the fill neck off removed battery and washer fluid tank. did not have to unhook any grounds or vacuum lines. voltage is good at battery.

update i pulled the drivers side valve cover off the side that had one cylinder lower compression than the rest checked valve clearance it was fine not sure what i did exactly but after putting it back together the miss/stumble is gone as of the moment. i dont really believe i fixed it though.

fuel pressure seems ok to me sit around 30 to 35 idle and comes up when reving the engine to around 40.

i do know of the fuel pump cap issue however i was not aware it could happen and still let the car run. every time ive seen it the car wouldn't run at all.

the fuel pressure regulator was my vacuum leak the other day no wetness at that. i dont beleive my scanner is capable of getting the data and fuel trims. heres 2 clips of how it is running starting from a stop and flooring it. dont mind the tape on the left of the dash its hiding the air bag light i was going to fix before this started happening badly.