sirtokesalot

yes the rotor did saw through the caliper. its amazing the wheel was still on the car. i got the rear together today and took it for a test drive no sounds from the rear anymore but he had 2 wheel bearings that were bad the front passenger one is also loose and just starting to rub the rotor into the caliper bracket when turning so yea still got more work ahead of me.

he bought one from the dealer. reason for replacement was he drove it without a wheel bearing for god knows how long. replaced the shock hub bearing axle caliper caliper bracket abs sensor and tone ring parking brake hardware still need a new parking brake cable he may not buy it. thankfully we used a junk yard part so most of this stuff was already assembled.

i have added lucas into my rear diff trying to get rid of a whine. actually it was a lucas a limited slip additive and good quality gear oil about 65% gear oil 35% lucas. at first it did not help much but as i drove it the whine did get quieter it was a loud whine originally and the mixture of fluids had quieted it by more than half of what it was. not sure if it would help at this point but maby someone els will see this and get use from it.

does anyone in connecticut have one of the long bolts and nut that aren't destroyed? im speaking of the long like 12 inch bolt that goes through the 2 lower control arms on the rear. it is for a 2002 forester but im pretty sure the same bolt for other models will work. im so close to getting the car back on the road but am being held back by one dam bolt.

trans x got me going for now i used it to try to fix a odd shift from 3rd to 4rth and it has worked for that.

i have used rtv copper on exhaust flanges with great results

hose clamps and a piece of sheet metal work best as a patch lasts a while too but will eventually fail many months down the road

im pretty sure if you unhook the battery turn the key on then hook the battery back up that will trick the alarm off. it is part of the keyless unit.

get a box of zip lock bags and label everything as it comes apart. also get a good repair manual for the car. this was the result of my first engine swap and everything found its way back in the car.

replaced the ecm today both fans now running like they should

i managed to get a nice factory stainless muffler from the local junk yard for 20 bucks and have been running it for a year now.

well im loking at ecm,s on ebay because no local pick n pull yards have any subarus in their lots. im reading alot of information saying ecu's have to be reflashed before use is this true considering the ecu i am buying is the same part number as the one i have will it not just work when i plug it in?

can i use any ecm from the 05-99 range on my 1998 outback? this is the current ecm thats in it now

probly a better question does it matter what ecm i get or will any ecm from a 95-99 outback work?

yet more updates. i had some help today and learned the switched side of the relays powers are all good i can bypass every relay and get the fans to come on. i also learned the relay in the drivers foot ares is the main fans relay if i jumper this relay through i get my main fan to come on and it also makes the missing power i had in the engine compartment relay be there. i believe my issue lies before the main fan relay inside the car witch im assuming is going right from that relay over to the ecu. how likely is it the ecu could be bad? anyone from the ct area willing to allow me to try their ecu?

i have it in my cars as well but i used the aftermarket version of it its not built into my radio. i would guess the antenna placement is not as good as with your other vehicle. i have also noticed i get better reception with it during the winter months when the trees have no leaves on them when summer comes back around and the trees start growing back their leaves i start losing reception in areas because of the dam trees being in the way.

this. i had to knock that pin out and put it back in on both my 95 and my 98 when i was doing a trans swap.

i feel like this is a bit beyond me. would there by chance be any connecticut members willing to help me out? i can still drive the car wherever ill just jump the fan again if needed.

did some more checks i jumped power into the fan and the fan does spin up. i have been looking at it backwards its the a/c fan that is running and the main fan is not coming on. i found another relay for the main fan above the under dash fuse box and swapped it with its known working friend the rear defroster and still have no main fan running. im pretty sure the relays are all good as they will all turn on the a/c fan. what is the chances the ecu could be bad? the wiring diagram i have shows there controlled by the ecm. im fairly capable of electrical work but not so great at diagnosing it.

ok i have rpaired the ground wire for the dirvers side fan and the power wire for ither low or high speed not sure witch on the passenger side fan. now if i plug in the green connectors under the dash i have the drivers side fan running not sure if its cycling between low and high but it cycles on and off the passenger side a/c fan still wont run even if i turn the a/c on. when the a/c is on and the compressor cycles on the drivers fan spins briefly but does not keep spinning only when the compressor cycles on. im sure if i let the engine warm up it would probly come on. what should i be looking into about the passenger side fan not working?

i had a simalar issue at my local dealer who had cut me a new key for my 95 legacy from the vin code but then 2 years later told me they could not do the same for my 98 outback

got an update. the ground wire is broken off the car side of the fan connector on the main fan if i jump a ground to it the fan cycles with the green connector pluged in. i have not tried this on the passenger side yet

not sure if it means anything but driving with the fan unplugged is causing a p1520 code to come up witch my scanner says is radiator fan relay 1 circuit high input.

ahhh yes dam i always forget to do that. its a 98 outback. and as i stated in my post i used the green connectors under the dash to test and see if the fans were working witch is how i learned they were not working. so the relay for the fan is in the fuse box under the hood witch means its probly not the relay as i swapped all those relays around trying to get the fans running in new jersey.

yes i checked the radiator when i checked it. i still have not got to it as i had to work today. is there a relay for the fans?