sirtokesalot

i went to six flags new jersey yesterday it was fun no issues driving there. about 30 min after leaving there thogh the car began overheating. it never got to the h but overheating none the less. pulled over and figured it was low on coolant nope coolants full. thought it was because i was running the a/c shut a/c off started driving again it starts overheating again. second time pulling over now i decide to plug in the green connector under the dash to find out if the cooling fans are running and i have no cooling fans both fans would not run low or high speed. i found the fuse for the cooling fans but it was good tried swapping it with one of the other fuses in the box no change. i dont know where the relay is for the cooling fans so i did not try swapping a relay unless its one of the ones in the engine fuse box i swapped all those relays around. in the end i wound up using a piece of the speaker wire from my subwoofer setup to run a constant power from the battery directly into the fan so the fan would run high speed for the 130 mile trip witch got me home. so now its home and i dont know why the fans wont ruin is there any common issues for this?

spent some time looking for that topic but i cannot locate it. had it back int he garage today checked the pins again they are moving freely the pads are not stuck ither also did tire rotation just to rule out it being a possible bent wheel issue is still there. i havent tried removing the abs fuse yet.

it stays the same when turning vs strait the front drivers side hub and rotor was replaced before i bought the car and were visually in new condition but was missing the abs tone ring i replaced the passenger front rotor. i also found the abs fuse was missing when i bought it you make me wonder about the abs but it does not feel like abs.i have checked ball joints and control arm bushings today when i replaced the passenger inner tie rod because it had play. the faster i go the more it will shake when i touch the brake. i can say the pins were not seized 3 months ago when i had the left side apart and the right side was not seized when i did that rotor last month.

1998 outback recently tried new rotors new inner tie rod and new tires i still get a wild shaking in the steering wheel when i brake. could this play be coming from the rack? the car has 265,000 on it ball joints check good bushings look good car drives strait doesent pull just shakes when braking.

find the plug for the subaru keyless unit there should be 2 of them. one of them is a smaller plug the other one is a larger plug u want the smaller one. pin 4 and pin 5 on the smaller connector is the ones on my unit that had to be jumped together to get the locking back to normal operation when i installed my remote starter/removed the subaru keyless entry. it should be the 2 wires on one side of the plug only one side will have 2 wires next to each other the other side should start out with a wire but the second spot on the plug would be empty.

if you have the luck of your engine leaking massive amounts of oil like mine was all the bolts come out very easy

did u use a gauge set to determin the freon was low and did u recheck after filling to be sure it was correctly filled? that sound could be too low or too high on freon it could also just need some oil added.

is the a/c fan rubbing on something maby? hard to tell you without actually hearing it.

the unit that im trying to unprogram is installed in a 1998 outback the one i want to stay programmed is installed in a 1987 bmw 528e now. both units are model h7110as011

yes i used this site to program the fob to the second keyless unit. i am trying to un program the same fob from the first keyless unit it was programmed too.

dam i only have one fob. i have the subaru unit h7110as011 both units are the same number. the fob was originally programmed on the subaru but then recently reprogrammed to the second subaru keyless unit i have witch is in my bmw now. would someone have a spare key fob for sale seems like it might be the only way to get it to work without controlling both cars.

does anyone know if its possible? id like to plug the keyless unit back in on the subaru because the interior light delay does not work with it unplugged but i dont want my key fob locking/unlocking both cars.

i have a keyless unit in my subaru i had programmed the fob to before i installed the remote start now the remote start key fob controls the subaru. i have an extra keyless unit i have installed in my bmw and got the fob programmed to it but its locking and unlocking both cars at the same time. how can i un program the fob from a factory keyless unit?

ill swap with you i have a slightly modded stock exhaust that seems louder than it should be i want quieter

i used a stiff plastic brush and i forget what i used as the soap it might have been laundry detergent and dish soap. just rinse it later suck it out with a shop vac and let it dry in the sun

power wash it scrub it wet vac it multiple times and leave it outside to dry for a week drive the car without carpet while drying. i got the white carpet on my 1987 bmw pretty clean doing this. i did not take a before shot but this was after cleaning it had some stains like you had in the center areas under the seats before. if your planning to replace it anyways it wouldent hurt to try.

the whole thing is that this engine came from a car that i had driven for 3 years without ever seeing the check engine light on for anything except a speed sensor. this makes me think something on the car is bad. the engine had new plugs and wires before the swap occurred and from what i could tell there's not much vacuum related to leak all the hoses i used were in good shape. the only differences are that i used the cats and o2's that were on the 98 instead of the ones that were on the 95 although i did save the 95 ones and i used the 98 air box instead of the 95 air box witch i also have.

I have repaired the exhaust leak p0420 came back this morning driving to work 386 miles since the last time. I suppose I probly should have swapped the o2 sensors while I was under the car fixing the leak.

before the swap took place i had done plugs and wires i did not do pcv valve there is a small exhaust leak at the flex pipe after the cats and o2 sensors i figured it would not cause the code though being behind the cats i might just change them anyways when i do the engine because ill have to cut and weld a new flex anyways how much harder is it to unbolt the cats and bolt the other cars one in before welding the flex in. was just curious on the code i want to be sure it goes away. the engine did not have any vacuum issues before the swap and the 420 code is the only code coming up for the last 5 check engine lights before that it was alternating between p0440 and p0420 i haven't seen p0440 in over 3000 miles now.

so my car has been throwing p0420 codes around every 600 miles give or take a few is the p0420 code a definite bad catalytic converter? ive been putting off doing anything about it untill this summer when i pull the engine for head gaskets and any other gaskets it might need. i have the cats from my old car that the engine came from they were not throwing any codes in the old car would just putting the other cats in stop the code?

yes as long as u keep up on checking oil levels and make sure its topped off. mine leaks oil bad i have the older ej22 but the head gaskets as well as many other gaskets have been leaking oil for years since before i bought it i have to add about a quart in between oil changes witch surprises me as it leaves small oil spots everywhere i park it after every drive and sometimes can see oil smoke from oil burning off the engine when i stop. im planning to pull my engine this summer to do a bunch of gaskets and hopefully stop the leaks.

mine has 216,000 on the ej22 in a 98 body with 264,000 the ej25 i pulled from it had its 3rd blown head gasket from what i was told by its last owner

its fixed now the screw went through 2 wires and i think was grounding on the frame. i cut the wires fully soldered and heat shrink over it.

well the wiring i had done looks just as good as the day i had done it no melty happening. its blowing one of the headlight fuses when the high beams are selected witch is causing the light to go dim. it dident click in my head until i started typing this that i had put a screw through the plastic panel under the engine bay to keep it from falling down and dragging on the road. turns out the screw i put in drove its way right through the wiring harness that runs along the lower radiator support. yay looks like i have to get under there again and pull the loom off and see what damage i caused. i dident know i screwed into the harness until now as i had gone out and checked.

i grounded it at the headlights. both headlights ground wires are tapped into soldered and ring terminal to ground