sirtokesalot

its fixed now the screw went through 2 wires and i think was grounding on the frame. i cut the wires fully soldered and heat shrink over it.

well the wiring i had done looks just as good as the day i had done it no melty happening. its blowing one of the headlight fuses when the high beams are selected witch is causing the light to go dim. it dident click in my head until i started typing this that i had put a screw through the plastic panel under the engine bay to keep it from falling down and dragging on the road. turns out the screw i put in drove its way right through the wiring harness that runs along the lower radiator support. yay looks like i have to get under there again and pull the loom off and see what damage i caused. i dident know i screwed into the harness until now as i had gone out and checked.

i grounded it at the headlights. both headlights ground wires are tapped into soldered and ring terminal to ground

i noticed today my passenger headlight is alot dimmer than the drivers side i also noticed that my fog lights and low beams seem to be shutting off when i change to high beams even thogh i had changed it so they will stay on when high beams are selected. what should i be looking at for problems i havent looked into it yet as i just noticed it tonite on my ride home and its dark out so i dont want to mess with it tonite but i figure i could ask what to check in the morning

yep it was an ej22 with egr

i just did this same thing on my 98 outback limited i used a 95 legacy l as my doner car it all bolted in plug and play.

time for a visit to a local pick and pull salvage yard

i had the engine out and another one in in a day and driving out of the garage. i can see it being done in a days time if u find the right person shop though would probably have it a few days possibly as long as a week. my brother did my moms head gasket on her 04 outback last year and had the car for a week.

will the power steering pump from a 2002 outback work on a 1998 outback? my parents have a 2002 parts car and ive noticed im losing power steering fluid and its pooling under the pump running down between the timing covers and out the bottom. yes i know about the oil pressure sensor but its not wet around that sensor it is wet under the power steering pump and my power steering fluid is very low.

with the rusted tone ring the abs was overactive and kicking the pedal back at me even when pavement was dry. no abs light. good luck if its rusty like these cars normally are you wont get the sensor out in one piece to check for debris on the sensor you will likely have to take the rotors off.

the only abs issue ive ever come across so far on these cars is rusted tone rings. i can confirm u can cut a tone ring in the low grooves and then bolt the 2 halfs on the car and it will still function normally. this is how i did mine when my tone ring was bad

i had my pulley come completely off one night while driving got lucky and the pulley bolt and belts were all still there just not bolted to the engine any more. i cranked that thing back on there very tight and never had issues with it again after. this was 3 years ago.

maby i should ask this different. what wire on the back of the rear defroster switch needs to see 12v power to turn the rear defroster on?

i learned that the rear defroster switch turns off when the key is shut off and does not turn back on when the key is turned back on unless the switch is pushed again.is there a way to bypass the switch so it will turn on when the car is remote started? my remote starter unit has an aux output wire i can program to turn on features like this but how would i wire it to make the rear defroster come on? currently i do not have the aux out wire enabled from the remote start unit as i did not think it was needed and figured i could just leave the switch on when i shut the car off. the goal is to make the rear defroster run while the car is running off the remote start system but then after turning the key it would turn back off and i would have to push the switch to keep it going.

nevermind ignore this

quick update and question the remote starter has been working perfectly since the install however i learned that the rear defroster switch turns off when the key is shut off and does not turn back on unless the switch is pushed again. is there a way to bypass the switch so it will turn on when the car is remote started? my remote starter unit has an aux output wire i can program to turn on features like this but how would i wire it to make the rear defroster come on? currently i do not have the aux out wire enabled from the remote start unit as i did not think it was needed and figured i could just leave the switch on when i shut the car off. the goal is to make the rear defroster run while the car is running off the remote start system but then after turning the key it would turn back off and i would have to push the switch to keep it going.

i have edited the wiring slightly in my earlier post so it mentions every connection. the system works not sure what was going on yesterday if anyone wants to install a remote start in a 1998 outback the wiring i explained above is correct.

not sure what changed between last night and now. i plugged the unit back int he same way it was last night and now it works 100% starts shuts off locks unlocks horn light flash so i think all is good now.

good news i unhooked the battery for a half hour just hooked it back up and the at temp light is behaving normally now turning on for a brief second when starting then shutting off. back to square one get the remote start installed and working. can anyone verify if this is correctly wired from the information i have provided?

ok here we go. i currently have the remote start unit unplugged its in the car but not hooked into the car in any way. the at light is still flashing. when the remote start was installed i had triple checked wiring diagrams for both the car and the remote start as well as verified they were correct with a multi meter on the car. this is how i installed it. main harness of remote start 3 of 9 wires used black wire ground grounded though white wire pin 1 from original keyless unit plug. white wire +/- light flash output wired through pin 11 on original keyless wire harness brown wire horn output wired through red/green wire at harness from column light green factory alarm disarm not used green\white factory alarm arm not used yellow ignition out to alarm not used white\blue activation input not used orange ground when locked anti grind output not used red/white trunk release not used remote start harness 4 out of 5 wires used black/white neutral safety switch wired to ground through toggle violet/white tach wired to blue wire at coil brown brake shutdown input wired to white/black with silver dots at brake switch gray wired to hood pin blue white rear defogger not used heavy gauge relay harness 5 of 6 wires used pink output to primary ignition circuit wired to red/yellow at ignition harness purple starter output wired to blue/red at ignition harness orange output to accessory wired to red at ignition harness 2 red 30a input wires wired to black/yellow at ignition harness pink/white output to second ignition accessory not used door lock 2 wire harness blue unlock wired through pin 9 on original keyless harness green unlock wired through pin 1 on smaller original keyless harness pins 4 and 5 on original keyless smaller harness plug were jumpered at the connector to make the drivers door lock/unlock with key fob. i cut no factory wires i had male and female harnesses i cut from a junk yard car and made this unit capable of being unplugged from the car and possible to plug the connections back in like it was never there witch is how it is right now.

something got messed up not sure how. i had the remote start installed and working for the most part im 995 sure it was installed correctly. the locks were locking/unlocking the panic worked light flash and horn honk worked but it would not remote start. i had been messing with it for about 9 hours in my uncles garage and decided i was tired of messing with it and put the car back together so i could go home this is when something happened. before this step everything was fine with the exception that remote start was not working after putting the dash panel back in now when i start the car the at temp light flashes 16 times like its a solenoid failure but i do not have torque bind. what did i do? i cannot fond any blown fuses the car still drives right at temp light goes out after flashing fwd fuse does nothing but still i do not have torque bind.

does anyone have a good wiring diagram of the locations where i would need to tap into to install a remote start? i have a 1998 outback limited does anyone know if this is accurate? http://www.commandocaralarms.com/wiring/1997-1999/Subaru/legacyoutback/1901.html

i just havent been to a junk yard since this happened. im planning to grab a few bushings next time im there

Not sure why 3 posts occoured. Please delete the other 2 my phone posted too much

I've had my 98 outback on the road about 700 miles now since the engine swap using a 95 legacy 2.2 motor. The p0440 code has come up 3 times now resetting it each time it just comes back a few hundred miles later each time. What do I need to look at? When I open my gas cap the woosh sound is not present like it was on the 95.