sirtokesalot

wires are the same as when i got the car plugs are new and the coil is used but same symptoms with both coils. if it were wires would it not misfire every morning i start it due to moisture being there? i pulled the plugs out the other week but did not notice any coolant or oil on them i couldn't really see into the cylinders. i do not lose coolant often either it will stay full for months before needing a top up. the car leaks alot of oil and seeps coolant from somewhere the whole bottom of the engine is just oil sludged however it only consumes about 3/4 of a quart between oil changes.

i have a 95 legacy with the 2.2 im having an issue with the engine misfiring if i leave the car sitting for more than a day or 2. if i drive the car daily the issue is not there. so say i leave it parked for 2 days or longer when i go to start it it will start and misfire for around 5 to 10 minutes until the engine warms up and the misfire will go away and drive perfectly until i park it again for 2 days or more. what could be causing this to happen?

i have a 95 legacy wagon with very bad rust issues in the back i have recently been searching the craigslist for another 95-99 legacy but im searching for the car version vs the wagon i have now and im also shooting for a standard. im searching for cars that need an engine as well with the thoghts of swapping my good running 2.2 into it and using the manual transmission instead of the automatic i have now. would there be any cars i could not do this swap with am i going to run into issues using an automatic engine with a manual? i have never done a swap myself but i am very mechanically inclined and have garage space + my brothers help who is a mechanic.

i have a 95 legacy wagon with the 2.2 ej22 motor. if i leave the car sitting for a while then go to start it it will misfire for around 10 or 15 min and be undriveable durring that time but it clears up after that time and becomes driveable for weeks unless its left to sit again. what the hell is going on with the car?it has new plugs and wires recent coil i took the radiator cap off with it running no bubbles oil is spot on looks perfect.

junk yard 5 bucks a side

ive had an exhaust leak from the front flange since i got the car ive tried to fix it a few times now with no success new gasket double gaskets whats the best way to seal the flange when a gasket wont seal it? this is the last leak left in my exhaust.

i might back into this tree myself when winter is over if it doesn't collapse my then. i think it should be fine there's plent of metal left on mine but there's also very large holes. fiberglass is going to be my tool for repair.

sounds like my cars twin. bought it cheap cv's are going bad brakes were shot needed an oil pan speed sensor is iffy and sometimes does not work right away and my harmonic damper came off about a half a year after purchase. i torqued mine back on at 150. its not coming off again.

i feel like someone removed mine years ago or it does not work because i can shift without the brake on or without the car running even. i am required to push the button still but there was never a lock in mine since i got it or there is and it does not work.

id remove it if it were me. why does it need to lock?

do you think this seat belt warranty would cover the little plastic piece missing that holds the buckle from falling all the way down? its annoying to me having to mess with the belt to find the buckle sometimes it gets slammed in the door.

on my 95 legacy wagon there was no wires there i added the wiring and plug witch i cut from the doner car at the yard. i assume its the same on other subarus without the option from the factory?

does your car have fog lights? one of those is for a fog light switch i believe at least thats what i put in one of mine when i installed fog lights. for my cars case i used a second fog light switch to be able to turn on/off abs as i wish.

do you think it would be wiser to switch to the next style headlight with the separate side markers? those headlights have a clear lens without the wavy pattern in them.

im getting the stuff together for the projector retrofit and was wondering will the wavy clear lens of the stock lens interfere with the light output from the projector?

i tried to pull a truck without an engine across a yard with my 95 legacy wagon and i tore the tow hook out from the back of the car. yea i wont be trying that again.

yes first to second is a harsh shift to me. it does shift a bit better warm vs cold but i can still feel it. the first to second thing bugs me it waits until over 3000 rpm to shift usually around 3500 and then the shift is like a lurch sort of as it hits the next gear seemingly harder than it should. im probably just going crazy over how it works and its probably working normally. it doesent shift anything like the last few cars ive had. my bmw is a fast shift probably the fastest of any auto ive ever seen im talking like instant u can drive it in manual 321 on the shifter and it will respond instantly when the shift is made.the bmw also almost never revs over 2500 rpm. the lincoln i had was a very smooth shift almost like you couldn't feel it at all. i dont own the lincoln anymore though. it might just be that im so used to having a fast instant shift that i think this one is broken?

ive had a piece of contractor bag wrapped around mine with zip ties holding it on since last year. my boot was missing completely when i bought the car and it was clicking intermittently then i wrapped the contractor bag around it zip tied the one end loaded it with grease wrapped it around the Axel squeezing the grease closer to the cv then more zip ties to hold it all in place. it still clicks sometimes but the bag is still holding and definitely does not click as bad as it did when i got the car. lol was googling how many people tried this witch is how i got here and did not notice this post was so old when i posted.

how much pressure should the trans make? can i rig a pressure gauge into the trans cooler line to see the line pressure on the trans?

this. you dont want to have to pull it back out again a few weeks later because another bulb blows. change them all.

it shifts through all the gears manually but acts the same when the shift happens. to me it just seems like its not shifting fast enough. first to second is the worst and also a kind of harsh shift 2nd to 3rd not so harsh but still slow 3rd to 4rth or overdrive not sure what it is is also not so harsh but slow to shift into the gear. all gears do feel like they fully engage just on their own time. i can feel the car let go of the gear engine revs slow down i feel it begin to grab the next gear then feel the clutches actually grab down and the gear fully engage. all shifts are like this.

this is my second winter with the car. i changed the trans fluid during last winter did not drive the car much through the summer. ive put a new coil on it new wires new plugs. the transmission fluid is still bright red colored no burnt smell still right at the full mark. when i changed the fluid i drained what was in there refilled it drove it about 20 min and changed it again. ive done alot of other work on the car but none that i can think of that would effect transmission. such as replaced oil pan repaired trans cooler line brakes and such.

but again so soon? the fluid only has about 5000 miles since i changed it last.

ive plugged tires in the past and had them last for years and ive also plugged tires and had them go out again a month or 2 later. my favorite plug job was on my own tire i plugged the side wall i know i shouldent have but the tire was near new tread wise and i was broke. that tire went on 3 years before the plug blew out and i was forced to get another tire but at that time the tire was well worn and needed replacing.

i have a 95 legacy auto. the trans has been shifting a bit weird to me. it likes to hang out of first gear until around 3500 to 4000 rpm even if im light on the throttle. and when it shifts from first to second its not as smooth as i think it should be. it also seems like it takes it a second to actually fully engage the next gear this issue happens with all gear shifts. does the trans-x stuff work with the older transmissions?