sirtokesalot

i have a 95 legacy auto. the trans has been shifting a bit weird to me. it likes to hang out of first gear until around 3500 to 4000 rpm even if im light on the throttle. and when it shifts from first to second its not as smooth as i think it should be. it also seems like it takes it a second to actually fully engage the next gear this issue happens with all gear shifts. does the trans-x stuff work with the older transmissions?

i will make a harness for it all with bigger wires i was just curious what it took to get it done because once i do get the projectors it will have hid's and only one bulb for both high and low so they will need to be that way soon just getting things started. the halogen bulbs should last that way for way longer than i need them too.

can the headlight lens be removed from the back part? im planning a projector retrofit and just curious if its gonna be a front cover off everything sort of hidden or a hack the back of it open deal.

ive seen mine flashing twice now. once was because water had gotten down the tube where the spark plug goes and was causing a constant misfire the second time was when the harmonic balancer i think its called the main pulley that drives everything came off the engine and that caused it to flash.

today i traced the wire's from the alternator and found they ended at the fuse box. can i safely add a second wire from the alternator to the battery? reason for this is because i have a stereo in the car big amp and it wants more juice and i think im losing some power through those small wires leading to the fuse box first then to the battery.

while not going with jdm i have plans for robbing the innards of some audi lights or somtihng from the yard and cutting my lights up to put projectors in them.

i am trying to figure out how to make the low beams stay on with the high beams. im not worried about bulb life and such ive done this mod to my other cars and haven't noticed any difference in bulb life. the bmw i had to open the fuse box and cut a ground wire off the low beam relay and wire it to a constant ground point instead of the switched ground point is there a simalar type thing that has to be done on the subaru? i have a 95 legacy wagon with the 2.2 motor.

well my plan is if i dont find someone to weld it up cheap enough im going to get me a fiberglass kit and clean the area up and fiberglass the holes shut.

i was curious if anyone here was from ct has a welder and would be willing to help me fix some holes in my car. i don't need anything pretty just want the holes covered up so the car wont fall apart. i have holes up around the rear strut towers i will remove the suspension stuff so you can weld in there but i do not know how to weld never tried nor know anyone with one.

yep id hammer it back. buy a head light and marker light for the broken side maby a new grill from the scrap yard and make it appear ok. bend the shift link stuff back and call it a day.

might be. i posted them when i found them now the add says its been deleted. it was 2 4 cylender subaru engines and one 6

saw these on craigslist in the free section this morning and figured id post them up. free subaru engines in connecticut. http://hartford.craigslist.org/zip/5310232843.html

ive been considering replacing my rusty worn tone ring and when i do my plan is to cut the ring in the groves in 2 spots remove it and install it on my car in 2 pieces. i will be getting a junk yard ring when i do the job.

possibly piston slap? a friend of mines subaru has this and lucas made it louder.

i have a similar issue on a bmw i own witch i believe is the ignition switch failing. when it wont start from the key will it start if you take a piece of wire and jump power from the batter to the starter solenoid?

i thought the 95 ej22 was the last non-interference and that the 96 forward were interference motors

fixed. i cut the end off the metal line shoved a rubber hose onto it all the way up to the bajo fitting and hose clamped it to the line then attached the other end up front.

at this point im about to just coat the line in p.o.r. 15 and let it dry and trogh it back on because i cannot find a replacement line anywhere.

ok no part store can find a cooler line for the car. does the line need to be a banjo fitting? could i just go buy a 90 screw in fitting with a hose barb on one end and just run rubber line from the trans to the cooler up front?

well so far i weaseled the bad line out of there not quite sure yet how im going to get it back in.

well the trans cooler lines rusted throgh on my 95 legacy im currently trying to sorce a new set somewhere but i have a question about them. what is involved in replacing them? it looks like i might gave to remove the rear cross member and lower the rear of the trans to get to the bolt for the line . can it be done without lowering the trans? does anyone have any good tricks for this job?

you could try to see if a sticker company will make a large piece in the color of your car and put a large vinyl sticker over these sections to protect it like some of the newer cars have.

my uncle has one of those aftermarket antennas in his car its not as good as the factory one the aftermarket boosters ive found dont do much for anything. id head to a junk yard and pull a used one they cant be too much if you pull it yourself. the booster is located behind the trim panel in the cargo area on the drivers side i saw it recently in a friends 04 outback when we took the panels off to hammer the damage out from his rear end accident.

my 95 legacy l wagon does the same exact thing after sitting will crank around 10 seconds before it starts catching but wont just spring to life it requires the key to be held down for the extra few seconds before it fires. runs great once running and wont do it again unless its not driven for more than a day. if i start it every day it fires right up.

i cannot remember exactly what they did but i do know that 2 of them perform the switch function one of them is a ground one of them is the switched power for the lamp that shows the icon and the other one is switched power for the red light that says its on. you can probe the back of a connector on one of the other switches to find out what colors do the light bulbs by probing the line and switching the lights on and off see if you get voltage one of them will get power when the lgihts are on. that wire needs to be tapped into and extended to where the fog switch goes to turn the background light on. then probe around the connector again switching the switch on and off for each wire untill you find the color that makes the red light come on for this function i tapped into the power out from the switch to the fog lights to turn this light on. i cannot remember if i grounded into the other switch as well for those bulbs or if i just grounded under the dash. the remaining 2 wires will be for the fog lights them selves. the switch was run into a relay before the fogs.