sirtokesalot

update i pulled the drivers side valve cover off the side that had one cylinder lower compression than the rest checked valve clearance it was fine not sure what i did exactly but after putting it back together the miss/stumble is gone as of the moment. i dont really believe i fixed it though.

fuel pressure seems ok to me sit around 30 to 35 idle and comes up when reving the engine to around 40.

i do know of the fuel pump cap issue however i was not aware it could happen and still let the car run. every time ive seen it the car wouldn't run at all.

the fuel pressure regulator was my vacuum leak the other day no wetness at that. i dont beleive my scanner is capable of getting the data and fuel trims. heres 2 clips of how it is running starting from a stop and flooring it. dont mind the tape on the left of the dash its hiding the air bag light i was going to fix before this started happening badly.

As of now it's starting to backfire and seems like it's more of an Ignition cut than a misfire I can't see it being bad guess I buy my gas the same station all the time And I fill it up twice a week

Update it is becoming worst the more I drive it. Still no cel even thogh it will skip and miss from 0 up to 40ish on 4 out of 10 accelerations and the other 6 times would just be a stumble on take off.

could this be a valve issue or a cam issue? or would that be more consistent

it does feel like a misfire. its not throwing any codes at all. the plugs are ngk wires and coil i robbed off my plow car "an 01 legacy sedan" witch was running fine and not misfiring at all.i did the compression check 2 or 4 days after doing the plugs and all the plugs looked same dident seem fouled out. once i get moving the miss stops and it runs smooth its only doing it when taking off from a stop or if i floor it to pass and the rpm is low enough. the miss/stumble also seems kind of random like its not happening every time it fires that cylinder. also while running if i unplug the wires from the coil all cylinders are contributing the idle will dip lower for each cylinder i pull the wire for.

ive been battling a stumble/misfire when taking off from a stop for the past month or so on my 2001 outback. so far ive changed the spark plugs changed the wires and coil pack and done a compression test witch came out to 175 175 175 and 165 after changing the plugs it did fix it for about 2 days but the issue returned the coil and wires dident do anything for it. compression seems good to me the engine did get all new gaskets bearings and rings 2 years ago. yesterday found a vacuum leak and no change by fixing that. i tried to reset the ecu by unhooking the battery and touching the 2 wires together for 10 seconds that did stop the stumble for about 30 minutes but it came back half way to work. air filter is good exhaust not plugged. what the hell is going on with the car?

the horn does work yes. i dont know about cruise control as i dont use it very often. i can repeat that test and have the light come on each time if i turn left almost to full lock.

New info. Just took lunch break airbag light shut off when I started the car and turned back on when I turned the wheel. I'm gonna guess clockspring

OK I figured out reading the code. I got code 11. What's the most likely suspect for this code?

Yesterday I had my airbag light come on. I shut the car off restarted it and it shut off was fine the rest of yesterday. This morning I start the car the airbag lights on again. Tried restarting it light stays on now. Does anyone know how to get the code out of the airbag module?

https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/199-2004-how-to-read-at-diagnostic-trouble-codes-dtcs.44383/ i dont know how far back it works for but this is the manual process to get the code.

the old radio i had the wiring harness to just color code the wires together and plug it into the stock radio plug. all i did was unhook the old radios harness and wire the new one into the adapter harness. the remote start has been in the car for near 3 years now its never done this and have it installed under the drivers side dash area. i do plan to unplug it for testing when i get a chance to but likely not today due to rain. trying to build a game plan of things to look into when the time comes. i did not cut any of the cars wiring to ad the remote star instead i went to a junk yard and cut the male and female plugs from the harnesses id have to wire into and wired it so i can unplug the remote start and plug it back in like factory so in the future i could just unplug the remote start and move it into another car plug and play style.

im not sure ill be looking into it today but im curious if anyone els has ever has this issue. swapped the radio out the other day i had a pioneer radio and swapped it for a better model pioneer radio. somehow in the process after i finished i noticed the doors locked but dident think anything of it other than i must have bumped the switch. next morning i remote start my car go out and its locked. wonder to myself why and then drive to work. stopped at he store and when i come back out and start the car the doors locked as soon as the key hit the crack position. somehow changing the radio has caused my door locks to lock when the key is in crank position. has anyone ever heard of this happening? for now ive pulled the door lock fuse its suposed to rain all day im planning to pull the radio back out to re check behind it. anyone have any ideas what could have happened?

my friend has a 2005 forester ive been working on. every 30 to 45 seconds when its warmed up theres what seems like single missfire then it goes back to normal idle. it only does it at idle and is not throwing a cel for it. what could be causing it? it may not be a missfire but thats what it sounds like. idle idle hickup/missfire sounding thing idle idle

it is definitely not cross threaded in. i just finished up swapping the original rack back into it and took the 7 month old replacement rack out. not leaking anymore. now i gotta try to see if this place will honer the warranty

is there some trick i dont know to getting the dam lines on the rack to seal? i noticed a small drip the other day coming from one of the 2 lines that cross over the rack from right to left side wish i never touched it now. tried to tighten it when i noticed it leak got worst changed the o-ring leak got even worst tried teflon tape leak slowed down but dident stop replaced o-ring again leak became a stream not a drip tried using a thick rubber washer intead of the o-ring still gushed out put an o-ring back in it and still streaming out. i cant stop this leak ive dumped at least 4 quarts of fluid in this dam car over the last week and been attempting to try repairs almost every night with no luck. i actually debated welding the dam line into the rack for a moment but figured that wouldent work well and talked myself out of it. is there any kinda way to force the dam thing to seal up?

its fixed. i pulled the tail back off and took the clutch drum and transmission side drum from another trans that was having electrical issues and put it into the forester trans. no more binding.

can the metal gasket for the tail housing on the transmission be re used?

i ended up going to the yard this morning and got the solenoids and the speed sensor put them in and no go. probly going to end up looking for a transmission.

well im going to try to get to a junk yard thursday for some trim parts and figure while im there ill grap some transmission solenoids and a speed sensor as well to try. ill update later

how can i test for this? the cel is not on.