sirtokesalot

the plan is for it to sit until the snow comes back at the end of the year. if the bmw happens to break down durring the summer i would drive it its mainly a winter/backup car so i dont have to drive the bmw in the salt im trying to preserve it as long as possible. i have a dirt/gravel driveway i cannot leave it on jack stands because they will sink into the driveway over time. my plan was to unhook the battery do an oil change and put some stabil in the gas. i was considering filling it up now while the gas is cheap still.

id be the person to disable the seat switch so the car thinks theres never anyone in the passenger seat.

should i worrie about anything parking the 95 legacy for the summer? i finally got the bmw running right bad o-rings on the injectors was its issue so the subaru is going to sit for the summer now and most likely wont come out much until the snow is back at the end of the year.

i believe i have solved the problem. i went and bought a cigar and blew the smoke into the intake until i saw smoke coming out around the injectors i went and got 6 new o-rings and installed them no more rough idling no more missing at idle the issue is gone.

so i took it to someone from a bmw forum yesterday and we detemined the o2 sensor was bad he gave me a sensor witch i chanegd and have to go back to him again to adjust the fuel mixture because its running rich

updates i changed the plugs because they looked really bad also put some lucas fuel injector cleaner int he tank it seems to run a little smoother now but idle is still way off i believe im hearing a backfire every so often through the intake. i checked the afm the flapper door is not stuck checked the coolant temp sensor by switching the plugs on the 2 sensors the car has one for the ecu and another one for the gauge both are the same. video shows fuel pressure and u can hear the way it is running. sorry for the poor quality my phone did not want to focus.the idle way going up and down on its own a bit. when i put the gauge down i was reaching for the throttle because the idle was getting too low and i thought it was going to stall. http://vid163.photobucket.com/albums/t290/estatesbburnin/20150405_124243_zpsld0hx3ve.mp4

i believe it is working i took it off and cleaned it out the idle is not hunting just really choppy. if i unplug the iacv the idle starts fluctuating up and down when plugged in it evens out.

its been sitting a few months it had no gas when i parked it and i put 30 bucks gas in it 2 days ago when i got it back on the road. it is fuel injected

yay no more snow. I took the bmw out for the first time this year since it started snowing all in all things went well however i am experiencing a very rough idle seems like its missing at idle smells like rotten eggs and gas smell from the exhaust its so bad that when in gear the whole car is shaking. Ive been looking over it for the last few hours now and found a vacuum leak witch i fixed but the idle is still horrible. it seems to drive fine when the rpm is up i can feel a hesitation/miss every so often while driving with light throttle input. what should i look at? the car is a 1987 bmw 528e running motronic 1.1

i tried lucas in mine ones and it made things worst so i drained it.

mine acts like this when its first warming up for the day after its been run for 10 to 15 min it gets better but can be noticed sometimes.

rear axle look for a torn axle boot in the back if one is torn u can put some grease in the torn boot more specifically put the grease on the cv its self this should make the clicking stop for now until the grease comes back out again. the proper fix of coarse would be to replace the axle. be sure to check before buying parts.

is 125 a fair price for a used one? a junk yard about an hour from me has one in stock.

im not sure if im looking for the right part now is it the cross member or the sub frame? it is the u shaped part around the diff that the left and right wheels control arms bolt to.

what cars can i use the rear sub frame from?

i have a 95 legacy wagon and i have an isue with alot of rust and holes forming in the rear subframe. what would be the cheapest option of replacement for this? the one of there is not in good shape at all i am afraid to poke at it because i dont want to see how bad it really is it feels rather soft.

i wouldn't mind if the factory on off switch just activated in delay mode. i never use it in full on and find myself just turning the switch every so often.

well i guess this item is not going to be on the list of junk yard parts today.

going to the junk yard tomorrow would like to know if this is possible and what id need to make it happen.

is it possible to adapt a system form a later legacy into mine and if so what one?

it is a 95 legacy l wagon

is it possibly to make the rear wiper run on an intermittent setting? i know stock its ither on or off i was curious if there was a mod that could be done to make it happen?

well i just got back. took the car down to work this morning and used the torque wrench there i tightened it to 150 ft pound its not going anywhere anymore.

dident get any pics. was driving and noticed the battery and brake light come on i thought that the alternator died and figured id turn off the lights and radio and see how far i could get before the battery died i felt like i could get home. about a mile or so later the check engine light began flashing and i lost power steering. at that point i figured i threw the belt and pulled over figuring id pull my old belt out the trunk put it on and be going however when i opened the hood i found both the alternator belt and a/c belt was still there with the main center pulley that drives them hanging there by the belts with the bolt still in it. i got the bolt back on and drove it home now im wondering how tight should that bolt be? what we did to get it back on was use a screw driver through the inspection plate to hold the motor still while tightening the bolt with a ratchet and extension bar. it is a 95 legacy l wagon with the 2.2 the key way dident look perfect but it did still grab the pulley and hold it locked there.

the way we change these at work is through the inner fender. turn the wheel all he way to the left then u can go to the passenger wheel and pop out the push clips holding it in place. once u have the clips out u can pull the plastic inner fender back enough to stick your arm in there and get to the bulb. its a tricky thing to do because you cant see what your doing at the same time as your arm is in there. there should be a cap that twists tot he left to take off once it stops turning u pull it out. then i believe it is a clip style bulb so there will most likely be a wire clip over the bulb holding it on.unplug the wires from the bulb before undoing the clip. one side of the clip sticks up and out a bit u push it back and either down or up then let it come back out and release the bulb reverse to install.