sirtokesalot

clean the sensors check the tone rings. my plan was to just use a hack saw at the yard to cut it off the car there the plan was to cut inside the valleys. if need be i could probly have someone weld it back together once its on the car but it sounds like i wont need to do this and it should just work fine.

so the tone ring on my car is rusted away on the fr side. will the abs system notice if there is 2 cuts in the tone ring the cuts would be in the lower parts of the grooves. i understand that i cant remove the ring without removing the hub so i was tihnking that maby i could cut a ring off from a junk yard car one cut on each side then remove the bolts holding it there do the same for the one on my car then bolt the 2 halfs of the new one on. would the sensor notice the 2 cuts?

i normally don't warm the car i have a habit of just getting in and going i cant afford to let the car run for 10 or 15 min to warm up that's a few miles i could have driven. i don't drive the highway often i tend to stay on back roads with speed limits of 50 usually everyone is doing 55 the rest of my driving is at around 30 to 40 mph driving to work and home with 6 stop lights on the way. i have new plugs and coil still using the wires that were on the car no vacuum leaks found. it has the auto transmission and 194,198 miles currently.

how many miles per gallon should i be getting in my 95 subaru legacy wagon? from what ive averaged out the car is currently getting 20.85 miles to the gallon is this normal? just seems to me like it should be better.

i think some of the rattle is coming from the roof support beams. how bad would it be to use some spray foam between the roof and support beams so they cannot make contact?

honestly now that im really looking at it it looks and feels more like coolant than oil im going to clean that area and drive it and see where its coming from

well i drove it around for about 15 minutes without issues. it was idling for about 10 min before i left with it. it seems like its running fine now i tihnk the oil inside the spark plug hole was the cause of my misfire.

ok well i cleaned the oil out of there and put the plug back cars running now warming up. it missed for a moment when i first started it but im guessing that was from the little bit of oil that got in the cylinder because it cleared right up. once it warms up im going to take it for a drive to see if the problem is fixed and if it is than i need to figure out how the oil is getting in there.

WOW its freekin cold out there. a quick look i pulled the spark plug boot and looked in with a flashlight. #1 spark plug is half way under oil. can this cause my misfire?

they are ngk platinum alloy plugs its what the parts store gave me for the car. the wires are the wires that were on the car when i bought it. the coil is a diamond coil that came from a junk yard car witch looked like it has the coil and wires replaced recently i should have grabbed the wires too. its been cold outside i haven't gone back out to the car since last night its still 9 degrees outside now. when i replaced the coil last time there was oil in the #1 spark plug hole could this oil be what is causing my misfire? it looked like it was running down the top of the block and into cylinder 1's spark plug hole. the oil was not pooled very high in the hole but it was there i cleaned it out when i changed the coil it could have pooled back in there again in this time now.

my 1995 legacy wagon has begun to misfire again this time it happens after the car has warmed up once its warm it starts missing when idling and will misfire while driving until i get some speed up then will stop missing until i slow down again or drive to easy for too long. i keep a code reader in the car 2 times today the check engine light began flashing and as soon as it would stop flashing and go solid i would scan it and get p0301 each time cylinder 1 misfire. i have new plugs on the car and i replaced the coil recently with another used coil. what do you think my issue is? witch cylinder is # 1?

the rear wiper does not wipe correctly it skips on the glass going one way and wipes normal the other way but misses the top 2 inches ive tried 2 different wipers and tried to bend the wiper arm a little inward no change whats my issue?

so in the end the jb weld did stop where it was leaking from but it has begun leaking in other spots an oil pan will be in the future but the jb weld will get me by for a little while it leaks a lot less than it was.

is there any way to get the panels to stop rattling short of removing them? i have 2 subs in the back and the panel rattle is crazy u can hear them rattle over the music.

gas can still flow if that o-ring fails gas was still flowing with my moms subaru however it couldn't build enough fuel pressure to run due tot he o-ring in the pump releasing most of the pressure back into the tank.

this sound slike what happened to my mom with her 03 outback check this video out at the 9 minute 43 second mark. the metal cap he unscrews was not seated on my moms pump causing this issue for her after reseating the cap the car ran. it could also be the o-ring. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXH1A9sHt6M

an update ive had oil in it for about 4 hours now no leaks to be seen yet.

the picture doesent really show it but i did clean the areas where i applied the jb weld. as a side note i do have por15 left over from when i repaired a gas tank on my 87 bmw im gonna take it it would be a wise decision to coat the bottom of the oil pan with it? unfortunately i do not have a garage though and por-15 cant be applied at below 45 degrees and its below freezing here now so the jbweld is gonna have to work for now. if it holds up ill por15 it later. im not going to put oil in it until later i figure the more time it has before oil is flowing behind it the better

it started as one leak i intended to patch right next to where the dipstick enters the pan but during cleaning off the oil some rust flaked off and opened up another leak a few inches away the oil pan is rather rusty but i cannot afford a replacement pan at this time. the leaks were what looked like 2 small cracks and one small hole about the size of a pinhole but slightly larger than a pinhole. all the leaks were above or level with the spot the dipstick tube enters the pan. here is the patch work. the left patch was a small crack and the right pathc was the small hole and crack near each other i spread it over that area wide.

has anyone ever used jb weld to patch a leaky oil pan? what are the odds that the patch i made tonite will hold and not leak oil when i fill it up tomorrow?

i can say heater core failures usually result in smelling coolant in the car and the windshield fogging up on the inside you most likely have a water leak from the rain getting in somewhere or the a/c drain tube

on mine most of the plastic hex pieces are missing but there is still a hex on the end of the adjuster to move the light. its like a plastic hex over a metal hex on mine.

so does the wheel have to come off or will it wiggle out between the wheel and dash?

if its like mine there is 2 adjusters on the back of the headlight housings. on mine they stick out a ways and fit an 8mm socket. one of them does up and down movement and the other one does left to right movement.

how hard is it to get the cluster out from my 95 legacy wagon? i want to remove the abs light