sirtokesalot

it happened again this morning. i started it it idled fine put it in drive and pressed the gas the engine did not rev it just seemed like it lost a little idle started popping missing and what seemed like backfiring again i held it floored it kept doing this for about 10 seconds before it got enough speed and then it cleared up and drove fine all day.

so i noticed my hand gets really hot with the defrost on and realized the left and right dash vent are blowing hot air all the time unless floor is selected. is this normal or is something not working right here?

the yellowing is on the inside thats the best i can get it without cracking the housing open and i dont think thats possible. i can actually see the film on the inside of it so brighter bulbs and hopefully they will put enough light out to make me happy.

this is what im working with thats good news im going to order some high wattage bulbs this week dont mind the screw driver its there so i could open the hood without running around as i was closing it frequently during the remounting of the headlights.

the fronts are not broken. its broken where the mounting tabs ripped off the back of the housing. i have siliconed patches over the holes and the fracture cracks no water is getting inside. i was thinking about getting higher wattage bulbs. what are the dangers of the housings melting if i ordered 90/100 bulbs?

they were a bit broke up from the previous owners accident whatever they hit. i since resealed the cracks and holes int he headlight surround but i can see dirt and junk inside the reflective part is not all that clean ither.

could it be that im just used to the hid's i had installed in my bmw and that these lights are working as they should?

my 95 legacy headlights are not very bright. i have aligned them and cleaned the outside of the lens with rubbing compund witch got rid of the yellow on the outside of the lens but the lenses still do not look as clear as i tihnk they should be. the lgiht that comes out fo them is dim what can i do do help the situation short of replacing the housings? can the lens be removed to clean the inside?

it ran poor when i went to leave this morning i put the new maf on and left home again it ran fine. ill have to wait a few days to find out if it fixed it or not.

at this moment its gotten dark. after getting out of work at 1 i went to the yard and got the sway bar links maf coil some clips for the rear door one of those roof map light things for the roof and i grabbed the passenger side wind deflector thing only one subaru had them and the drivers one was broke. it was on an outback limited it seemed like stock quality. if anyone has the drivers side one let me know i would like to buy it.( im talking about the things that go over the window so u can have the window cracked open when its raining and not have water come in) i have not yet had the chance to put the new coil and maf on it got dark. the old sway links fought me the whole way they dident want to come off.

it is a 1995 and has the ej22 i checked over the vac lines i could see and did not see any cracked or disconnected lines. i might go to the junk yard tomarrow for some rear sway bar links and i need some of those clips that hold the rear hatch panels on. should i grab any sensors while im there?

the last time it happened it was a wet morning but the other times it was dry. the plugs are new the wires and coil are the same that were on it when i got it they appeared in good condition. i wiggled the wires around last time it had the missing issue and did not get shocked and yielded no results. the wires were clean so its most likely not oil getting on the wires i do not think the car was maintained well by the previous owner. it has 192,000 miles i looked at the timing belt it looked in good condition and i put the cover back on. it was in a wreck before i bought it unsure what they hit but the bumper was fine. the hood and radiator support took the impact. oddly enough the radiator and ac radiator dont leak they sure took some hit as both of them are now bowed into a half moon like shape. i bent the front end back into shape. this is how it sat when i purchased it i spent a lot of time with a mini sledge hammer on the front end to get the hood to close and line up properly again

my legacy wagon has an issue with starting after its sat overnight. it does not happen every time id say that it has probly happened like 3 or 4 times since i got the car just about a month ago now. i start the car and sometimes it just lacks power ill hit the gas it just wont respond i hear the engine bogging out and what sounds like backfiring from the intake if i floor it it will slowly build speed while backfiring through the intake or at least that's what i think the sound sounds like untill it gets to around 2500 rpm and the power starts to return in bursts for a second before it jumps into life and runs normal it wont do this again for a few days after it happens. other times it will feel like it is actually misfiring but wont through a code i will floor it and instead of just lacking power it will feel like its missing on a cylinder and will miss until i floor it and let the rpms get to that sweet spot where it clicks and everything goes to normal. what could be causing these symptoms? the car runs so great for days then randomly will run like tihs only for a dead cold start up until i floor it and let it run up to speed.

i got mine working by just getting a handful of switches form the junk yard and the new junk yard switches worked and lit up like they should have.

yes i forgot about that bit. im speaking of the 95-99 era legacy/outback. im gonna go with its just a rare thing to find and if i ever see them while at the yard i should pull them as fast as i see them.

but witch ones had the wood trim around the vents as well?

what cars did the wood trim come in? i was at the junk yard a few times this past week and acquired a set of wood trim for around the window buttons and shifter. after coming back home i decided to look online and found that some cars came with the wood trim pieces around the dash vents and radio as well. the cars i saw the wood trim pieces in at the yard had grey panels around the dash vents.

went to the yard this morning and boguht 3 switches left with 3 sets of switches in my pocket a full set of the wood trim biuts for around the shifter and window buttons a belt for the alternator because mine is stretched and slipping and the trim peice i missed last time when i got the rear carpets. its kind of a lot to walk out with under my jacket but it fit fine many small parts dont look like anything under my coat. the switches all for the most part had a light out on them i swapped some bulbs around on them and got my switches all working and lighting up like they should. junk yards are fun

ah that would explain why mine also do not light up im assuming they never did. if i replaced them with the newer switch from a newer car that the switches do light up in would i have to rewire anything to make them light up with the headlights on? as it is now i have the fog light switch wired to illuminate the fog light symbol with the headlights on and the red light comes on when pushed. the defrost and cruise only have the red light

update i have the fog switch installed and working the illumination light that comes on with the headlights is working and hte red light when button is push was working but stopped working while i was messing with the switch im assuming the bulb went bad and that the bulbs are probly just also bad for the illumination part of the other 2 switches. i have to go to the junk yard again at some point to try and locate the correct grille i can see a pocket full of defrost fog and cruise switches leaving with me.

i installed a set of fog lights on my 95 legacy. im curious if the factory rear defrost and cruise control switch are supposed to light up with the headlights on? the fog light switch i got from the junk yard car does light up with headlights on but the other 2 switches that were in the car already do not. are my switches not lighted? do i need to get more junk yard switches?

no the front left was in much better shape and the rear passenger one was in very good shape. i never got the drivers side caliper bracket off so im unsure of the rear drivers one. the one in picture is the passenger front.

the abs was causing the real issue the abs tone ting on my car is shot rust has gotten its way with it and causes the abs to activate on the right front whele if i plug in the abs fuse so i dont run the car with the abs fuse in. the brakes dont pulse in my pedal unless the abs fuse is in. this is why my abs dont work right

i wound up just getting a 1 gallon jug of the dexron compatible atf just the cheaper stuff i could not affourd more and changed the fluid i had i wound up putting like 6 quarts into it after draining it and i only got like 4 and a half quarts out of it. anyways i drove it for an hour out to a friends house stayed there for a few hours then drove back home with no issues the fluid change so far has solved the issue for now

What fluid does subaru call for specifically? If I'm going to change it I'm going to use the correct fluid and not the stuff from work. Is there a peticular fluid people like better than others? Id be doing the work in the driveway at home.