sirtokesalot

no the front left was in much better shape and the rear passenger one was in very good shape. i never got the drivers side caliper bracket off so im unsure of the rear drivers one. the one in picture is the passenger front.

the abs was causing the real issue the abs tone ting on my car is shot rust has gotten its way with it and causes the abs to activate on the right front whele if i plug in the abs fuse so i dont run the car with the abs fuse in. the brakes dont pulse in my pedal unless the abs fuse is in. this is why my abs dont work right

i wound up just getting a 1 gallon jug of the dexron compatible atf just the cheaper stuff i could not affourd more and changed the fluid i had i wound up putting like 6 quarts into it after draining it and i only got like 4 and a half quarts out of it. anyways i drove it for an hour out to a friends house stayed there for a few hours then drove back home with no issues the fluid change so far has solved the issue for now

What fluid does subaru call for specifically? If I'm going to change it I'm going to use the correct fluid and not the stuff from work. Is there a peticular fluid people like better than others? Id be doing the work in the driveway at home.

ive been working quite late and dont get home until way after night has happened ill have a free day to look at it tomarrow. i drove it last ngiht for about 45 min for the most part nothing happened until i got close to home and it started acting up and shifted its way into 3rd then 4rth then 3rd again and down to 1st i let off it settled back into 4rth and did not happen again i dident drive it much longer though. where are the factory grounds located on the engine and trans? could changing the fluid help this situation even though it appears like new condition?

yes the car is new to me ive had it for about 3 weeks. i work on cars for a living basic maintenance at a valvoline instant oil change i do other work as well ive always worked on my own cars. i know for sure i drained the oil and oil filter when i did the oil change. the trans fluid is the color you would expect new trans fluid to look like and full. the check engine light is only on when the key is turned before starting once started the check engine light goes out. i scanned the obd2 with my obd2 scanner anyways and found no codes stored. when i bought the car it had a cylinder 2 misfire the check engine light does work. i replaced the plugs and moved the wires to opposite cylinders on both ends and reset the check engine light 350 miles ago when i changed the plugs it has not come back on yet. i have not driven the car since this happened the other night.

yes i check with the engine running. i changed the engine oil about 10 miles before this started happening.

if i drive with it in 2 it stays locked in 2 first stays in first 3rd will shift from 1st to second to 3rd then sometimes will drop down to 1st and back to 3rd. drive will shift normal but will downshift erratically all the way to 1st sometimes even if your driving at 50+ mph when it downshifts if i gas it harder i can feel the lower gear is there its just reving really high so i did not do that much. if i just take my foot off the gas when it downshift it just up shifts back to where it should be.

no check engine light at/temp light is there when key is turned but goes out after starting no flashing of the light happens.

the fluid is still very clean looking. it is also full

1995 legacy wagon my transmission began to change gears erratically is the best i can describe it.for the most part it runs good most of the time when i press the pedal there is a gear there ready to pull me along. some times/ alot during the last trip also the first time ive noticed it in the 350 miles i drove the car it has been switching gears at will. ill be cruising along at 45 / 50 mph and it will downshift to 3rd then back to 4rth go back to 3rd for a second then what seems like first ill let off the gas it will go back to 4rth again and stay there for a bit ill have full power no issues and it will happen again. i noticed sometimes from a stop as i take off i have 1st it will shift to second then 3rd and drop back to 1st then 3rd. what causes behavior like this? is the transmission toast? it has very clean fluid and was running great all day until i decided to head out to a friends house.i got it home again but it was shifting erratically the whole way.

i have a 95 legacy wagon with i presume the 4eat automatic transmission. would doing the mod to achive a 50 50 power distribution hurt the transmission? my plan would be a 2 way switch so i can have it set up like one way would be to allow it to run normal and the other way would lock the center diff to get 50 50 power distribution. i would not be doing the handbrake part of the mod thogh just the diff lock switch. is it bad to do this if i only plan to lock the diff in snow driving and allow the car to chose in anything other than snow? http://www.rs25.com/forums/f8/t99075-4eat-diff-lock-switch-handbrake-mod-torquemada-lite.html

yes it is the ring thats bolted to the back of the hub. i just tried to loosen the bolts and space it closer to the abs sensor witch did help but the issue is still there im probly going to just leave the abs fuse pulled. is there a way to get the abs light to go off on the dash it is currently the only check light lit up in the car.

well now i have all 4 main brakes working they all had stuck slide pins the last person used some gold looking stuff to lube them that hardened i got all the brakes moving freely now new pads on front rear pads were good i left the rotors for now because they were stopping fine and i dont have the money. the abs issue is an abs issue the passenger front abs ring that the sensor reads from is very worn down more on the passenger side than the drivers side i tried to clean it up a bit but the abs issue got worst how hard is it to change?

i have new bolts from my local hardware store that are the correct length and i have used one of these extractor bits all ready witch has landed me with the worst off rounded bolt than i had originally. it started as a 14 the 14 began to go around so i tried to hammer a 1/2 on it it was snug i tried to remove the bolt again the 1/2 started spinning then i found my 1/2 strip socket it fit snug at first but as i started to turn it all it did was shave away the ends that were left and now i have a round headed bolt that nothing will grab. im thinking im going to go to the yard tomorrow and see if i can get the rear drivers caliper bracket off of a car in the yard and just cut my current stuck one off. i believe i screwed myself.

i started to pull the rear brakes off today to find out what i needed exactly for the rear and found that my pads are good and the scraping was coming from the parking brake i managed to get th epassenger rear brake and rotor off but the drivers side rear the 2 bolts for the caliper bracket stripped and are now a round shaped thing no socket i have fits on how do i get it off now?

ive decided the brakes are going to get new pad and rototrs all around due to rust on the rotors it feels like the fornts are warped and the rears sound like somtihng is grinding. the start issue is still there ill have to make a video of it tomarrow morning.

hello i just got my first subaru after seeing how well my friends does every winter. i got the car for 300 bucks it sat a few months before i boguht it. im having an abs issue the abs is activating more than it should i can feel it kicking back at me even with slow stops. if i pull the abs fuse it will lock up on the front right before any other tire what could the issue be? i did check the brake on that wheel and it all seemed to look normal aside from needing pads soon. im also having a cold start issue where after its sat overnight it doesent like to start the first time cranking and ill have to stop cranking and start again and on the second crank it will fire up.it has the 2.2 n/a engine.