sirtokesalot

Afternoon update driving home with the light flashing nothing I am doing is making the light stop flashing there's probably a good chance that I'm either going to just drive it until the transmission blows up with the light flashing or I might actually get the UMP together and pull the transmission out I don't know yet it's cold I don't want to change the transmission in the driveway

New update it seems to be an almost constant problem now I had the light come on last night and was able to clear it with the TCU swap method that I described then this morning when I left for work it was flashing again and was able to stop it with the TCU swap method I described now I'm on lunch break and I could not get the light to stop so does so it has become a constant fault at the moment

now that i got the shake fixed i see this becoming my new nightmare. every couple weeks i get an at temp light flashing and the car will spit out a code 79 from the at temp light. i did replace the duty c solenoid but still have the issue. for some reason i can get the light to stop flashing reliably by plugging an h6 tcu into the car starting it shutting it off then plugging the cars h4 tcu back in and the light will be off on the next start and stay off for a couple weeks again. how can i figure out whats going on? i do not think its the tcu as i have put another 4 cylinder tcu in the car already and has the same results. how can i test this sub harness? im not great with electrical testing more of a find a fault and replace the part person. i do have another transmission just dont really want to go through the hell of installing it.

update its an end to the nightmare shaking. i swapped the driveshaft again for the 3rd time a couple days ago and the shake finally went away. the car drives smoother than it ever has since i got the car over 2 years ago.

its more of a not liking the warm up time of hids when i switch back to lows.

And the fogs also dident come as projectors and hid bulbs. So again does anyone know how to make the fogs stay on for both high and low beams

whats the easiest way to make the fog lights stay on when the high beams are on? i have a 2001 outback. i dont really want them to run all the time only when the headlights are on and on both low and high beams.

its fixed. i changed the passenger sensor abs light was still on so i cleared the abs codes rechecked them and it was showing front left sensor code 23. so i pulled the abs sensor off the part car and swapped the front drivers sensor cleared the abs codes again and no more light.

Im having trouble reading the blink codes could someone please help me fifure out what codes its blinking to me? Im prety sure the codes started repeating in the video. I want to think its 21 22 and 44 but im.not 100%sure. What the heck does 44 mean? 21 and 22 is front right

so about removing a transmission from a seized engine. is it possible to pull the transmission out without unbolting the torque converter? everything is still in the car as well. and if i cannot get the torque converter is it ok to use the converter from the foresters current bad transmission? going to be heading out to the car this transmissions in in a few hours.

engine was idling fluid was dirty looking but full. pan was not dented car has 205,000 i beleive its the original transmission.

i have a transmission i can get basically for free but it has an issue. its attached to an outback with a seized engine. i will not be able to get the torque converter. could i use the converter from the transmission thats currently in the forester? and is it possible to get the transmission off the torque converter with the engine still in the car?

so i got this forester for free they said the transmission was shot but when i jump started it the thing drove. i was driving it around my yard for about 10 minutes and all a sudden it stopped engaging all gears. i hosed the transmission down with a power washer to cool it off and it drove another 20 feet before dropping all gears again. fluid is full. im gonna assume its the transmission is shot but is there anything els i could check before commiting to finding and replacing the transmission? would it be worth trying a fluid change?

alright so i got the car all back together with the yard cars tcm installed and no more flashing light transmission is behaving normally. a side note im not sure if it was the issue or not because i but the bad tcm into my yard car and it is now not throwing the flashing light issue in the yard car so i dunno

so i may have got lucky. i just pulled the tcm out of our 2001 legacy sedan yard car and plugged it into my 2001 outback fired it up and the at temp light shut off. guess the yard car is about to become full time 4x4.

so while i was driving home yesterday from work the at temp light started flashing and felt like the transmission was binding while turning. i just finished putting the tail housing back together on the trans and replaced the duty c solenoid with a known working one and the at temp light is still flashing. is there any other simple checks i can do or am i gonna have to pull the trans and swap another one in it did flash about 5 days ago as well and i ended up putting the fwd fuse in and it stopped flashing and went into fwd and i ended up taking the fuse back out on my lunch break and it was working again after that for the last 4 days until last night when it happened the second time and now even with another transfer solenoid installed that is known working i get the at temp flashing and it will not go into fwd anymore with the fuse.

could engine mounts or trans mounts cause a shake? i dunno what els to think of. i do have another set of engine and trans mounts around

it does bug me very badly. so much that i went the crazy route of replacing everything and still dident fix it.

so im calling it un fixable. at this point ive replaced everything in the front end and still have the shaking. this is including using my brand new snow tires on balanced wheels. theres nothing left to try replacing. anyone wanna buy a car with rebuilt engine and all new suspension and steering components? only down side is it will shake forever with no reason why

can delete or leave up for future reference. i got mad and floored it coming down my driveway and felt the power steering kick in for a second so when i got in the parking spot i revved the engine up to around 3500 while steering and could feel it coming and going until it finally had steady power steering and wasent fading out anymore. i had to rev the engine to get it to flow the rest throgh the rack.

i replaced the steering rack on my 2001 outback this morning and after i finished i added fluid to the power steering steered left and right got power steering for about a minute or so in the driveway and when i went for a test drive the power steering vanished. came back home tryed steering left and right again the system is not pulling any more fluid out of the resivour and i have what feels like manual steering with 0 assist now. the power steering worked fine before the swap what am i doing wrong?

Yes it was hard to hold the camera still while pushing and pulling the tie rod end. There is definitely some movement in the rack so i am replacing it. I ended up buying a new one.

are reman steering racks worth anything or should i just buy new?

at this point now ive also changed the a arms and rear bushings now as well. also found a slightly worn ball joint that i also replaced still shakes the only thing left is the steering rack witch i noticed has this spot where the rack moves while its steering in and out. hard to see on camera but can barly see it more obvious in person. it seems like where the center is dips down then back up as it passes that spot.

im trying to justify changing it out lol i really dont wanna do the job but at the same time i do know the axle stub shaft play is an issue just not sure if its the issue im trying to fix by replacing the transmission