sirtokesalot

mine is an automatic

thats what i ment. i have another complete transmission and rear diff with around 97,000 miles on it and it is a 4.11 ratio. the transmission thats currently in the car is a 4.44. my plans was to just swap all of it over.

transmission in the car has 212,000 miles and alot of axle stub shaft play in the diff the transmission im planning to put in has 97,000 miles and 0 axle stub shaft play. aside from axle stub shaft play the 4.44 trans works alright occasionally it shifts around weird but doesn't slip. i also sort of feel like the axle stub play is contributing to a shake in the steering.

how much of a difference will i notice going from a 4.44 to a 4.11 trans and diff?

I got 23 back on the way to work this morning. Looks like im pulling the drivers front apart again soon

actually yes. it all started after i changed all 4 rotors and pads. but i had taken it off roading prior to that as well and power washed the under side of the car before i did the brakes to wash the mud off. so im not sure if i caused it by changing the brakes or if i caused it by power washing the bottom of the car. i did not have any abs issues after off roading and before i washed the under side of the car / changed the brakes.

ah i got it now. only put one wire in the bottom right not both wires bottom right and bottom left. im getting 23 26 and 56 this all started at the same time so i cleared it and am going to re check it next time the light comes on and hope its only one code by then.

I tried it and it does not give me the code with it running. How can i get the abs code when the abs light doesn't stay lit after turning the car off?

I do think I figured it out however when I shut the car off and connect the pins into the diagnostic port and then turn the car back on the ABS code cleared every time I shut the car off and turn the car back on the light is off and then it randomly comes back on while I'm driving can I plug that diagnostic port in with the vehicle running and still get the code

Can you check ABS codes on a 2001 Outback the same way you would on a 95 through 99

what is the likeliness of the axle stub play being the cause of the shaking? is it worth the chance to swap the transmission to a lower mile unit without stub shaft play? would it possibly fix the shaking?

It did not stop just dident get going fash enough in town when i started the video it was shaking full go until i let off then dident show in video again. It kind of seems like its an all the time shake now once over 50

just finished swapping the passenger axle and swapping my original struts back in because they were in better shape than the test ones i put in a couple weeks ago. there seems to be less shaking now with a different axle in the passenger side though i do think i still feel it lightly. i suppose a longer test drive would help determine it but seems like its alot less now. is that stub shaft play in the transmission something i should worry about? could it be contributing to the shake any?

with the car up in the air checking the inner cv joints there is alot of up and down play where the axle goes into the diff more so on the passenger side than the drivers side. seems like something inside the diff. could this be an issue and the cause of the shake? i do have another transmission but dont really want to change it lol. going to swap the passenger side axle anyways for now and see if it changes anything the knocking sound is i believe the diff gears from rocking the wheel back and forth in park. sorry about the video quality it was kinda hard to get the phone in there and see the axle. u can see the top of the axle thogh jumping up and down when i turn the wheel back and forth

1 its stock ride height not lifted. 2 i actually checked the front end 3 days ago at work over the pit and those bushings appeared in great shape still they dont move excessively while having someone els kick the wheel while i looked from the back side. i supose i could pull them off and check them out of the car. 3 they were replaced about 4 months ago 4 the front bushings are still original. i looked at them with a light and dont see the bushings coming apart they still seem centered in the control arm. 5 while the subframe is not rust free its not a total rust ball ither. i do know the rear bushings are wearing as i notice a slight bit of play in the rear but ive definitely seen alot worst. i supose i can try swapping axles again one at a time

ive done alot to the front end of this car. i havent put new axles in it but i have swapped between like 4 other axles ive had and not had it change im not saying every axle i have is good but i cant see all 6 or 8 front axles i have collected from cars ive broke down being bad ither. inner and outer tie rods were replaced with used parts that had no play in them. the hubs and bearings were replaced with a used set from one of the cars i broke down and bearings sound good and no play in wheels from bearings. lower ball joints are both brand new from earlier this year lower control arm bushings the rear ones that bolt in are new from earlier this year. front sway bar bushings and links are also new from earlier this year. it did have new front rotors last year but im sure there warped by now but dont really suspect them as the shake they do shake while braking thogh. also has new/used calipers as the originals were leaking they are not seized and slide pins move freely. new u joint in the driveshaft both u joints move freely and center bearing feels in great shape. i even tried swapping the front strut assembly's with my yard car just for the hell of it. the steering rack seems to be mounted solid but i do have the common steering rack clucks when rocking the steering wheel left and right. it definitely feels like the front while im driving it. there also seems to be a weird handling to it like its not solid but i can find nothing loose. as far as an alignment goes i did a string method alignment on it. it does drive strait and does not pull left or right. i have intentions to get a proper alignment done but wanted to get the shaking fixed first so im not taking it apart after the alignment and wasting money. if i dont go over 50mph u would never know the car did any of this. it drives perfect below 50mph no shakes no odd handling just drives dead smooth and strait.

Can warped rotors cause a shake that starts around 50 mph and goes away when u let off the gas? Also seems to go away when steering and is dead smooth below 50mph and whats the chances it could be the steering rack transmission mount or engine mounts? I dunno what els really ive swapped nearly everything

well i changed that u joint today. it dident change the shake at all im starting to get annoyed with this car. its like no matter what i do it just shakes and no matter what i replace it wont fix it. the car has good bearings replacement used hubs new ball joints new tie rods used good front shocks new rotors new pads new sway bar end links new sway bar bushings new a arm bushings good used axles and now new u joints in the driveshaft. i feel like if i want a car that dont shake im gonna have to buy another one.

I have 2 other shafts but they all have bad u joints i mostly want to disconnect it until the new u joint arrives because im just so tired of it shaking the hour drive to work and back every day

Can I safely disconnect the driveshaft from the rear differential and drive the vehicle with it tied up to the side and the front wheel drive fuse in

2 questions. 1st when buying a u joint witch one do i need? the ones i see online have clips to hold them in however i thoght the originals were staked in or press fit? 2nd for testing purposes if i put the fwd fuse in and disconnect the driveshaft from the rear diff and tie it up to the side am i correct to believe the shaft will not spin and can safely drive it like that to find out if the driveshaft is actually the cause of all the shaking? alternatively if anyone knows how to separate the 2 halves that would ideally be a better option

well i pulled the driveshaft today and the front u joint is a little notchy feeling so i dug out my spare and the front u joint was good rear was about the same feeling as the front was on the original shaft. ugg tried a junk yard and dident even buy what they had for me because both u joints were notchy. so i stuck the spare driveshaft in it anyway just because its front u joint was the good one and the shake definetly changed and is not as hard as it was before but still there. so i guess im searching for a good used driveshaft

I never even thought to check the driveshaft. I wouldn't have thought it would cause shaking in the steering. I may pull it out tonite after work if not tomorrow. I do have a collection of drive shafts i may even have another one that fits the outback around to swap in.

A 2001 Subaru Outback I have new tires front and back and they are balanced letting off the gas does not make the shake completely go away but reduces it by at least 90%

well ive swapped so many parts and replaced all frotn end bushings and ball joints and still have shaking thogh it has gotten better. currently i have a shake in the steering that seems to be speed related and if i let off the gas the shake becomes much less. im guessing its an axle is there any way to tell witch side axle it is? or do i just need to swap them one at a time?