sirtokesalot

i have a plan going. i still have another transmission here with a bad front diff. im going to pull it apart tomarrow after work and check the basket in it. if that one is good im going to use that transmissions basket and use the clutch pack from my original transmission that did work with new seals on it. im gonna pick up the seals and another gasket monday

I saw a picture of that on the transmission side basket. I dident think to look at mine while it was apart. Its just odd to me that it engages with the car on jack stands but not on the ground. Dealer dident have the ring seals so probly gonna have to order those online

well im going to get another gasket set and the ring seals and hope thats what it is. seems to be the only logical thing it could be.

update. removing the yellow/green stripe wire from the tcu yields no change definitely not getting torque bind ither with the duty c disconnected. according tot he wiring diagram for 2001 outback the yellow/green stripe wire should be the duty c solenoid. what els can fail in this system? could the clutches be compromised somehow even though they look in great shape? how likely could the 2 seals on the shaft fail that direct the fluid into the clutch pack?

Well i dont know now. On jack stands it will engage the rear and spin them up but on the ground in snow this morning it seems like the rear aren't doing much of anything under load.

i bought the gasket from the dealer today and pulled it apart the clutch pack was still in great shape so i left it and only swapped the duty c solenoid. i believe the problem is fixed as it is refusing to spin the tires now form a stop when i punch it where before it would have just roasted the tire away until i got up to speed. talk about waiting for the last minute to fix it too were getting that big snow storm tomorrow afternoon and it would have been a crappy drive home from work with fwd

Can i use rtv there? I have the duty c solenoid from the original transmission as well

Oh i know where the date code is supposed to be but it just wasent there. Possibly might be on the other side of the tire? I swapped the tires from my buddys car last night witch are less than a year old and it is still spinning tje front off unless i baby it when taking off from a stop. Will fluid come out if i remove the rear section to change those clutches? How much fluid would i need to buy if i change those clutches?

well im not 100% sure how old the tires are i cannot find the date code on any of the 4 there all the same brand. it honestly seems like the awd is becoming less and less as i go todays ride home i went to pull out into a main road and the front right just lit up under light throttle and slowly crept forward until the tire quit spinning before it took off and accelerated normally. i do have a spare tail section with clutch pack and a solenoid. i had kept the entire rear section of the trans housing with the clutches and solenoid. does fluid need to be drained to pull that section off? im going to put another set of tires on it tomarrow.

it spins the front up prety fast for a few seconds it varies how much depending on the situation. always on dry pavement there snow tires about half worn. it can happen from a dead stop or if im rolling slowly then floor it and it is able to downshift to first will lose some traction in the front and can feel it walking left and right. usually happens most if theres any kind of turn involved. i notice it most when taking off from a dead stop tho sometimes will spin just a second or 2 and sometimes will spin across an intersection if i dont back out. the rear seems to be spinning as well if im on ice but if its dry its mostly front spin from a stop if i push to hard on the pedal

Is it normal for an automatic awd outback to have front wheel spin when accelerating hard?

ive come to the conclusion that the keyless module does not control the delay. i determined this by unplugging the keyless module in my friends car and when i did the lights faded off as soon as the keyless module was unplugged. some other module controls it. id like to use the factory option if possible vs buying somthing aftermarket to run it.

yes thats the one. the feature where when u get in or out of the car the light stays on then fades off after a few seconds or fades off when u start the car. in my car its always just shut off the light after a few seconds and does not fade out. i have another part car at my house right now that did have the feature in it. what would i need to swap over to make mine have it.

ive tried looking into this once before and did not figure it out. what module controls the interior light and how it will fade off after a few seconds? mine does not fade out rather just shuts off and would like to change that so it fades off like everyone elses subaru does. this is in a 2001 subaru outback.

well i wound up pulling the new seal and checking the drain hole anyway for piece of mind. it was clear put another new genuine seal in and power washed the engine bay. im going to put the engine back in tomorrow.

i dont really wanna loctite it in place as id be the one to do it again if it needed to be done again. im also prety sure the block is fully together i did torque it to spec according to the service manual. i read a bunch of stuff about the oil drain could be plugged with rtv causing the oil pressure to push it out how likely could that be seeing as it took 9 months to push out the first time? i should have researched it before putting the new seal in i feel like i should buy another seal and pull it back out and check those oil drains at the rear main seal before i put the engine back in.

i rebuilt the engine in my 2001 outback about 10 months ago now did everything had the block split new bearings and rings seals had no leaks for the first 9 months then it started leaking first slowly then massive amounts until today when i pulled it apart and found the rear main popped out and leaking was able to remove it by hand. why would the seal come out? should i be afraid it may happen again? i think if i remember right the rear main got messed up the first time and had to buy another one from local part place and was not genuine seal 10 months ago.

i have a 2004 h6 outback that was manual swapped and is 90% complete. there is something way off with the shiftier it will rock side to side like its in neutral even when its in gear and is very hard to find the correct gear when shifting. what parts do i need to fix this? 2nd does anyone know what wire coming out of the tcu i would have to cut and splice into the manuals speed sensor? does the ecu need to see the speed signal as well? 3rd the cars unhappy about the resistor trick that was used to trick the car into thinking the auto trans is still there would anyone happen to have a blown up h6 transmission they wouldent mind parting the electronics from? 4rth it wants to stall when coming to a stop and i had to adjust the idle up at the throttle body to stop this would anyone know what would need to be done to make it be right? this is just to start with for now im sure ill run into more issues down the road but gotta start somwhere

lower ball joints can be checked with it on the ground alot easier. u get a pry bar between the a arm near the ball joint and pry down on the a arm if theres play u should see it in the ball joint. as far as the rear a arm bushings im not sure a great way to check those ... could try kicking the tire twared the back and if it moves alot assume its bad? i replaced both my a arm bushings chasing a shake and it helped alot even thogh they looked fine. assuming the newer outbacks use the same setup as the 2001

Oops my phone did some dumb crap and double posted please delete

Does anyone know if its safe to flat tow a manual outback or would it destroy the transmission like the automatics do?

just for an extra option i know there is places that if u take it out they can put a lining on the inside like a kinda plastic liner that will seal it internally.

getting closer. today i changed both rear a arm bushings and the passenger lower ball joint. the drivers side the bolt was going to snap and i dont have the drill bits for that now so i left it for now. the car now drives dead smooth from 0 up to around 65 or 70 and then it starts to develop a slight shake in the wheel from there on. could this just be from the last ball joint thats left or is it a sign theres more still wrong beyond that.

update. took it apart it looked fine so i marked the belt pulled it apart changed the tensioner and put it back on my marks and after doing this it was 1 tooth off on the passenger side cam. rechecked i put the belt on the same way it came off ... yes. the passenger side cam was 1 tooth off. pulled it back apart fixed the timing put it all back together and seems to be running fine now. drove ti for 10 miles and let it idle in the driveway for a bit drove it again seems the 420 code is not coming back now ither. from what ive been told it woulda threw the light on in 10 to 15 miles before

im going to pull it apart tomarrow on my day off. it was raining when i got home. i have the car till friday so plenty of time