sirtokesalot

getting closer. today i changed both rear a arm bushings and the passenger lower ball joint. the drivers side the bolt was going to snap and i dont have the drill bits for that now so i left it for now. the car now drives dead smooth from 0 up to around 65 or 70 and then it starts to develop a slight shake in the wheel from there on. could this just be from the last ball joint thats left or is it a sign theres more still wrong beyond that.

update. took it apart it looked fine so i marked the belt pulled it apart changed the tensioner and put it back on my marks and after doing this it was 1 tooth off on the passenger side cam. rechecked i put the belt on the same way it came off ... yes. the passenger side cam was 1 tooth off. pulled it back apart fixed the timing put it all back together and seems to be running fine now. drove ti for 10 miles and let it idle in the driveway for a bit drove it again seems the 420 code is not coming back now ither. from what ive been told it woulda threw the light on in 10 to 15 miles before

im going to pull it apart tomarrow on my day off. it was raining when i got home. i have the car till friday so plenty of time

would a knock sensor not throw a code thogh if it had failed?

today i did some work on an 04 outback for one of my fathers friends. it was here for some dash lights radio replacement and valve cover gaskets. i was also asked to look into the ticking sound when cold and low power issue. the ticking ive found the cause as a bad timing tensioner bouncing to the click sound. could an outback jump time a tooth and still run smoothly but just be down on power? or could it be something els. the car also has a p0420 code. no other codes stored in the ecu.

interestingly i dont think it has. i put the old caliper back on that was leaking whent he brake pads got low. it has new pads on it now and that caliper doesent leak with new pads under it. it does not seem to shake when pressing the brakes so i may have gotten lucky with that. and yes i have ordered caliper rebuild kits so it wont stay like that for long and i should have the calipers rebuilt before the pads wear enough for it to start leaking.

well i ordered a arm bushings and 2 days later the passenger caliper seized. ended up having to remove it to get home on 3 brakes. guess what happened after taking the caliper of ..... im not gonna make ya guess. the shake virtually disappeared. there is still a light shaking at highway speeds but the obnoxious shake is gone. im guessing the used caliper i put on was sticking lightly for a bit and then decided to stick on completely the other day.

hey sorry guys i have been looking at the advice just haven't had a chance to get out and look at it. currently cold as all hell outside and got sent home early today from lack of customers. my jobs still open so trying to find time when its not raining or still cold is hard. i will get to it soon and check this stuff out any other ideas to look at when i get into it is greatly appreciated

you are correct i did not notice that. it is a 2001 outback it does not seem different on wet roads i dont really drive much dirt roads.

wait are u guys talking about the front axles or the center driveshaft? the center driveshaft was out when i changed the transmission.

the wobble is in the steering wheel at low speeds as u speed up faster the steering wheel wobbles faster as u get to highway speeds it starts to become a vibration that resonates throgh the body of the car. it has always done this since i got the car. everything ive done has helped it but none of it has gotten it to go away.

i think its the front. it causes the steering wheel to wobble left and right.

ive almost replaced everything and dont know what im not seeing. front end has shaked at all speeds since i got it. starts off a slow wobble in the wheel gets faster as i go faster at highway speed is a vibration. ive had 3 sets of tires on the front using different wheels each time balanced each time removed corrosion from hubs and wheels new brakes rotors and calipers new inner and outer tie rods new lower ball joints new/used hubs because original bearings were bad new used axles from friends part car that were knows good when he stopped driving it. only thing i havent replaced in the front end is the shocks the a arm bushings and the steering rack. whats more likely to cause this shake? im getting tired of replacing parts. its a 2001 outback.

if i remember right i think i got all the bolts from the top but the drivers side cover wound not fit out the top because it would not turn enough to clear some stuff so i had to bring it out the bottom.

i found the fault. it was a screw that had went through the wiring harness behind the passenger headlight when i mounted the ballast for the hid's not sure why it dident trigger a code sooner but after working through everything ive done recently i found the issue

no this was on a 2.5 in a 2001 outback passenger side came out the top drivers side came out the bottom with the filler neck removed first

i figured out how to pull the codes. im guessing it was coincidence the issue happened when it did. im getting 24 26 and 56 for my codes. FL RR and Wrong control module used or faulty G Sensor im guessing a wire broke somewhere? was front left that was leaking

i would think if the sensor was dirty the light wouldn't come on until i start moving in this case it comes on prety much instantly once started. i looked under the car and the abs sensor wire is still in tact and does not appear ripped or torn.

no we did not disconnect he battery dident think would have needed to.

i had a banjo bolt washer start leaking so took it off cleaned it up and re assembled only to find i made it worst so i replaced the 2 copper gaskets and fixed the brake fluid leak and bleed the brakes again. pedal is nice and firm feels great but now after fixing the leak the abs light comes on immediately after starting. it flashes off for a small half second them comes back on. what could have happened how can i check the abs codes on the 2001 outback?

from doing this recently on mine ill say its possible to just pull the covers without moving the engine. all i did was remove the air box on the passenger side and the washer bottle/battery on the drivers side and was able to complete the job. on the drivers side u have to unbolt the oil fill tube from the valve cover or it wont slip out.

ive been converting my lights to projector housings and want to use hids in the fogs but dont want the warm up time of hid's when switching back and forth between low and high beam yes the fogs are not yet projectors but i have the parts to do it and just have to actually do the mod. wanted to get the wiring done first. the low beams though are freekin sweet and thankfully because the lows stay on with highs on these cars i was able to use the projectors for both low and high.

i had thoght about that just build a little fused relayed off the low beams power source and wiring the fogs to that

is there a way to make the fog lights stay on when the high beams are selected? i dont want them to run without the headlights just want them to not shut off when i switch on brights.

does anyone know if i can use the 1998 outback radiator in a 2001 outback? my radiator is letting go and the 98 just had a new one put in less than half a year ago.