paladin

Howdy all, I unfortunately allowed my timing belt to break, which consequently has bent 6 of 8 intake valves on my jdm 2.0 motor. I'm not having any luck finding a vendor for them so far. I've seen them mentioned in threads, but no part numbers. Help would be greatly appreciated! Numbers on the head are IOS (noticed Subaru 2.0 for WRX is I2S and head diam. is larger) - 34mm diameter head; 120 mm shaft; 6 mm shaft diameter

I did not have the 12 point socket or need to really purchase one so used a leather wrap and vise grip to hold the rotor in place gently. Nut came off, no problem, all went back together well, no noise, good pressure, and no more leaks! I did get the whole reseal, o-ring kit and replaced everything. Spaced the anaerobic sealant at 12 and 6 that idosubaru mentioned so had to remove, seal and replace. Thanks, again for the help, multitude of council is awesome here!

Thanks all for the advice! All went well and leak is fixed.

Thanks a ton, have a couple of donor engines ... gonna pull those off!

Agreeing with "caution" since I am not seeing replacement oil pumps from my usual stomping grounds.

92

Hello all, Having a serious leak from oil pump on my Loyale. No suggestions for removal in my Haynes and want to be sure there are no issues removing the oil pump on the ea82 like there is on my ea71. Any suggestions welcomed. I see that a kit comes with two gaskets and a seal from Beck/Arnley. Thanks in advance

Thanks all, I know the timing belt installation set up, just am unsure of the position of the cam since it was moved out of position. Understood also that III is not tdc and great to know that all 4 pistons should be half way on III. I gather I'll need to confirm the position of the cam on #2 cyl on its tdc by pulling the plug and checking its position with the distributor.

I'm putting in a used engine, its timing belts were off and I'm unsure of the camshaft position on the #2,4 cylinder side. Sure of the #1,3 position with tdc on 1 corresponding to 0 on the flywheel. Anyone know of problems in rotating and finding the proper position for the #2,4 shaft? What would be the lobe/intake,exhaust positions?

Thanks subey gurus, just had to try something I had already tried, switching the fuel lines and it works!

RebelYJ, are these available elsewhere? Changing my 79 dist from points to electronic and need wiring diagram better than Haynes.

Thanks DaveT and Loyale 2.7 ... Checked the wiring harnesses and they are the same with the exception of no Green plug with brn wire for engine check. Ohmed wires for FI and went to same locale. Unknown on oem pump. I'll try checking the fuel line location and the carb cleaner into intake boot. I'm assuming you mean prior to MAS not just right into the intake and will try 12v across the fi.

jsyme, same config 5spd man/push button 4wd.I have not tried the starting fluid in airbox,but engine runs with raw fuel dumped in the throttle body as I stated before. John, did try switching the fuel lines and it ran briefly, but was pretty careful when I pulled them off of one car and left the other attached so I could just pop things on the same way that they came off. Might have to try it again though with all the wire wiggling and reconfigs I've done.

Donor swapped 90 Loyale engine to 92 Loyale - same configuration with exception of AC. Both cars drove into the driveway. Simple swap right, ... wrong. After swap engine won't start. Checked fuel pump, disty, ecu, ohm of fuel injector, ohm of wires from harness to ecu. Checked all fuses, fusable links, grounds, and wire harnesses. Swapped disty, swapped ecu and tried all configurations of the two. 40+ psi from fuel pump with new filter. 1.4v to fuel inj. from ecu when key is on not 12v as Haynes says it should be. Inj. ohms is fine. Engine ran when I bypassed using fuel pressure gauge dump line to put fuel into the throttle body. ecu flashes 5 rapid flashes with no slow flashes and see no code for that. Looking for any answers to this 2+ month problem ... Thanks ihscout54 and MR_Loyale for your suggestions.

New rear bearing, cleaned and re-greased rear axles, replaced rf axle and bearings on 79 Brat, replaced axle, bearings and exhaust on 92 Loyale. Crankshaft seal on 85 Brat.

Had a ripped up 5spd tranny button 4wd in my 92 Loyale. Found a donor 88 and swapped the whole engine and tranny and now it won't run. Good fuel pressure, but no signal to the spfi. Ohms from spfi to the ECM checked. Swapped ECM, dist. and still no go on its own. Bypassed the spfi with hose from fuel pressure check guage and runs. Ideas?

I'm changing out my Forester's auto tranny. Doing a JDM swap with a 2.0 compatible and believe I have to change the harness. Does anyone know how to remove the lower wiring attachment from the tranny? All of the rest seem to bolt off and slide out easily. Don't want to wreck this one nearest the tranny oil pan. Secondly, is there an adjustment that can be made on the linkage?