stoogesman

I am about to do timing and waterpump on my '85 DL wagon and am a little confused on which pump I need also. My car has no ac. Wasn't even an option from what I know. Do I need the 110 mm pump or the 105 mm?

Quick question everyone. I am in the midst of ordering the plethora of parts to get my DL back to health and I am little confused on which water pump to get. I am reading there is a water pump for cars with AC and then one for non-AC DL's. My DL does not have AC. WIll this water pump work? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?tab=search&partnum=42208&mfr=GATES Says 4 3/32 inch hub height. (110 mm). The other pump style is 105 mm. Thanks!

Thanks, just used these #'s to order the seals to help cure my TOD on the 85 DL I picked up 2 weeks ago!

This girl needs some good old TLC. I finally got rid of the TOD but due to the severe cold snap here in the Northeast, she is leaking oil from every orifice she can (oil pan, oil pump, oil pan drain bolt). Also her passenger axle is slinging grease and making all sorts of noises. I guess that's what $1600 gets you n 2014... I have a good few hours of work in front of me. But let me tell you, boy do I love her. I had an 86 Loyale (sedan) when I was 16, the first car I bought earning wages from good old McDonald's and I beat the living pi$$ out of that car. Made it to 244K and drove away to another lucky buyer who ran it well past 300K. I was a little peeved today to find that I have to undo the motor mounts in order to change the oil pan gasket. Was really hoping for an easy replacement. I guess nothing comes easy in life.

Thank you! So on Rockauto I see the mounts listed as front and rear. I am assuming the front are for the engine and the rear are for the transmission?

Stupid question but I am looking to order new motor mounts for my '85 DL wagon. How many mounts do I need. On Rockauto I see a front and rear? Yea I'm a noob, at least I am honest

Thanks! That is not a picture off my car. I saw that on another post and used it for demonstration purposes.

I seem to see a teeny seep of coolant around this gasket in the picture below (yellow arrows are pointing to it): Anyone have any idea what this is called and where I can get it? Thanks!

AND the TOD came back tonight lol. Went away for 24 hours and after a 30 minute drive it came back. Looks like it's time to rip the pump out and replace the seal and do timing. I guess it was inevitable, sooner or later

Not on my model it's not. On my '85 DL wagon it's located under the car near the fuel tank.

So I got Herb inspected today. He passed with flying colors. lol. Also the terrible ticking noise is now gone. Been gone all day...

I am running 10-40 Castrol in it. I tried the Risoline engine treatment today and shortly after the engine was quiet as a mouse. Went for a nice drive parked it and all was good. Came back out a few hours later , still quiet, took her for another drive. Got off the highway and it was ticking like a SOB!

Hmm, so the TOD can happen even when the oil pressure is within factory spec? I'm like bugging out over here Spent $1600 on this beast, picked her up and drove it 200 miles and the motor ran friggin amazing! A day later the TOD started and comes and goes. WHen it ticks its bone chattering then I drive it down the highway and it goes away for an hour or so. I've changed the oil twice, doing an engine flush of Resoline with little to no effect. I guess it's time to suck it up and spend the $150 in parts (water pump, timing belt kit, and oil pump seals/gaskets) and see what happens from there. UGH! Here is a short vid of my oil pressure readings on a cold start up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TvZqSAXPUhI

Odd part is my oil pressure numbers when ticking are within spec both at cold start and once it is warmed up. If it was the pump/seal, wouldn't I see low oil pressure during the ticking?? I owned a few old EA82's years ago and never had the TOD...

My oil pressure on the car is within spec. 70 at cold start up then goes down to about 25 psi at warm idle. The oddeset part is the terrible ticking comes and goes. It is SUPER intermittent. I checked the pressure when it was ticking and the numbers were goood. I'm at a loss for what the heck is going on.... Any ideas?!?!?

I bought an oil pressure tester. What should my readouts be at idle (cold), idle (hot) and revving (warm) etc. ?

Did I buy a car on its last leg? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q5_bNpI_A0w Oil level is fine. I did actually crawl under and look at exhaust. Nothing appears to be broken.

What is the recommened gear oil I should use for the trans and pumpkin? Any specific brand that works best on these older cars?

You're exactly right about tapping the gas pedal to get the idle to drop down. The carb seems like its running great and the motor runs awesome now! My next task is to find out what is clicking at 15mph or under in any gear including neutral in a straight line or turning. It seems as tho it is coming from the rear and ONLY occurs when it is in front wheel drive. If I kick it into 4wd the clicking noise in the rear goes away. Could this be something in one of the rear wheels' hub, failing rear axle or something more sinister? It's odd that it goes away when 4wd is actuated.

So now that the carb is working much better than it has, I notice now that the car when completely cold it idles quite high and then settles down after a couple of minutes once I touch the gas real quick. Then she settles down and idles perfectly. I see here are adjustments on the electric choke that says open/close. Where abouts should mine be set at? Right now I have it in the middles.

Ok so BIG news. I went out and capped some ports on the carb today and the car drives under throttle perfectly now! The pictures below show the front and the back of the carb and where I capped it. The caps I added are blue and red. Can someone explain what exactly it is that I capped and why it worked??? Front after capping: Rear after capping:

So I was finally able to talk to the previous owner who now lives in Thailand. She emailed me with this info about the car. "I think it might be that I lived at 9000 miles with him so there might be some sort of tuning up that would make him more optimal to your current elevation. Did the log book show that the gas mileage went down a bit as we went? I think I remember noticing that and attributing it to the elevation. I think I remember there being a sticker under the hood saying something specifically about this car is tuned to high elevation actually...... I had it to my friend's mechanic shop for a few long sessions when I bought it because it seemed to have been sitting in someone's garage for many years without maybe even being started. I can't recall exactly what he did, there were definitely some old gaskets that needed replacing. In the end it ran quite well for me. My daily commute was very hilly with some decent elevation gains and it behaved well. I seem to remember something also about some hoses that were kind of rearranged weirdly that my mechanic had to fix." So as of now the car is set up for high altitude, which leaves me with more questions lol.

Thanks everyone for there feedback. This will take some time to sort out. I'm still going to rebuild the carb with a friend who knows more and then try to hook up the carb correctly? Let me ask everyone this.... Even if all the emissions stuff is unhooked, can the carb still be hooked up correctly? In my current set-up, all emissions hoses were cut or pulled from where they formally went to. Now just a few hoses remain (pcv on passenger side) and other hoses to carb, and some of the ports in the front by the radiator side are capped.

Sorry, I didn't mean wired. I meant all the vacuum stuff hooked up incorrectly or capped/not capped.

So let me ask the carb experts this... The way my carb is wired up in the pictures I posted yesterday, would that absolutely make it run as bad as it is now? Or is it something deeper in the carb. I plan on rebuilding it irregardless. I am having trouble finding diagrams to wire up the carb how it should be (stock).