wilsonjacob8

Good to know! I will see what I can find for cores, then go from there.

I'm assuming you are buying the parts from Subaru, direct, Crazyeights?

Mainly just 216,000 miles of unknown maintenance from previous owner(s), expected leakiness, first gear grinds, finicky when cold, and input shaft play. I rebuilt the engine, so naturally I want to eliminate the next gaping stability gap. I will start looking for a good core, then

Hi all, So I'm trying to source a rebuild kit (bearings and brass) for my d/r 5pd 3.7FD transmission. I can't find sh*t for kits online. Also, I swear someone once told me there was a transmission place in southwestern Washington that did Subaru transmissions, exclusively. Any help in finding a rebuild kit so that I can do it myself, or pointing me to a local (PNW) shop that does good work at a reasonable price would be great! Thanks!

That was very insightful. Thank you for the detailed response! As I read this, I thought to myself how many of these things you've mentioned are probably exactly the things I've overlooked. The chassis had 216,000mi on it when I rebuilt the engine, and the contacts on everything with a plug show signs of corrosion, even if just a little. Perhaps I should invest a little more time in the finer details and exhibit a little patience. I will be getting the exhaust and tires/wheels sorted out, though, because they are obvious suspects. Again, Thank you!

standard pistons. Sorry, thought I included that.

If you haven't already done so, a new OEM thermostat is a worthwhile investment. As far as monitoring the temps, an infrared thermometer is great for checking the temps at various points on the block. This way, you know for sure that you aren't overheating and, additionally, you can verify that the thermostat is opening at the correct temperature.

Interesting. I will drive on it and continue to monitor. Back to the issue of the zero-balls status in the engine department, anyone have any suggestions. Or does it truly just have no power whatsoever? The only thing I have to compare it to is my 1.5L civic that still felt like it had more power when I was running the same size tires on 15s. We're talking 4th, but mainly 5th, being useless for anything but maintaining speed on anything more than a slight incline. Is that about right?

That makes me feel a little better. I haven't had to add any fluids, and other than the transmission being old, tired, and leaky, the engine is completely dry on the outside as far as seepage goes. I think some of the foam might be because of the way I initially had the PCV hooked up. Until I was able to get the necessary couplers, I simply had all four crankcase vents (both valve covers, rear-top of block, and rear-passenger lower) teed together and hooked directly up to the PCV valve on the throttle body. In this configuration, there was no way for fresh air to enter the crankcase, only the vacuum from the PCV. I have yet to drive on it since I fixed it the other day, but now it is as it should be. The valve covers hook up to the plenum, post-MAF sensor, while the other two go into the PCV valve. With the above PCV correction, I hope to see reduced foam production in the PCV tubes due to the increased fresh air flow. However, if the foam doesn't lessen, I won't feel better until I figure out where it's coming from. ...As far as the turbo delete goes, it was pretty straight forward. I did as the other members suggested and bought the intake plenum, PCV hoses, and a y-pipe from a non-turbo model. I had to cut the y-pipe just below the flanges to the head since the subframe was interfering with the pipes where they elbow to the rear (the y-pipe was pulled from a car at pick n pull, and it is definitely custom, so I can't speak to how a stock one would've fit). Other than that, it was just down to plugging the turbo oil port on the head and bridging the water lines that would've fed and returned the turbo water. Everything else stayed the same. Fired right up after some timing belt adjustments due to me not reading the instructions properly (I chock it up to being primarily a Honda guy xD). Other than the issue brought up in this thread, I have yet to find any issues with the rebuild. The only thing I've noticed is that it's a bit gutless. I have the DR 4WD 5-spd tranny, and I'm running 195/60/15s on the Pugeot alloys, but it feels more gutless than I thought it would be. I can't tell if that's just what it is, or if something else (ignition timing, tuning, etc.) is sapping that little bit of peppiness. Given that I've never driven an N/A EA82 before, I have no baseline "power feel" to compare it to, since last I drove it it was turbo'd lol

I just changed the oil (more to get rid of any remaining metal particles leftover from the first oil change/initial start-up). I plan on putting another tank of gas through it, and I'll definitely keep an eye on everything. I can confirm that there are no bubbles in the radiator, and there is no sign of any cross contamination of oil in the radiator or the overflow tank. I just don't know how much water it takes to make the "foam". It struck me as a red flag, so now I'm paranoid.

Also! ...Temps and oil pressure are both good so far, even with the leak. I have yet to see the temperature rise above 200*F. Oil pressure is roughly 70-80psi at idle when cold, 10-15 psi at idle when warm, and about 50-60psi warm at cruising speed. If I left anything out let me know!

Hey all, I finally got my turbo-delete rebuild up and running. Unfortunately, the fun continues as I begin the search for the source of a small leak of water into the crankcase. I have put about 300 miles (1 tank of gas) through the fresh build. The oil and coolant levels haven't dropped, but somehow water/moisture is making its way into the crankcase in high enough quantities to produce a light foam in the PCV tubing. What's odd is that the foam didn't accumulate on the underside of the oil cap like I would've expected it to. Being as I rebuilt a spare block with an unknown history, there could be a crack hiding just about anywhere. I know for a fact that the head gaskets are fine since I had both the heads and the block surfaced, and my compression is roughly 165psi (+/- 5psi) across all four cylinders. Additionally, I don't see any moisture coming out the tailpipe after the engine is fully warmed up. I am inclined to assume that it is most likely either of the heads that is cracked, being as the block used to be turbo'd. Anyone else have this experience? And, what is the best bet for sourcing a such a slow leak? I don't have oodles of time to burn, with school and work, but I would love to see this damn thing come together and be daily driven once more. I do happen to have two heads that aren't cracked and a new pair of head gaskets laying around, but I'd rather exhaust all options before I take the engine back out and go through all that again. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thank you! -Jacob PS - I don't know if it's directly relevant to this topic, but the rebuild was fairly thorough. I bought a rebuild kit with all Japanese-made parts, had the block bored, honed, cleaned, and had the cams and crank polished, as well as the block and heads surfaced. Every seal, belt, and hose was replaced. I torqued everything with a torque wrench, and referenced the FSM for anything I was unfamiliar with. That being said, I am new to Subies, so feel free to throw out anything you think might be relevant to finding/fixing the leak!

Well I guess I will order whichever I can find for less money since I will be chopping it off and welding it to my current system. I can fab my own hanger. Thanks for the info! She will live again within a few weeks!

Okay, so I'm trying to source an exhaust y-pipe. Will any y-pipe work from any non-turbo EA82-equipped donor, or are there significant differences in physical fitment between the different body styles? I am going to have to weld it in to my existing header-back system after I cut off the turbo flange section, and I'm just trying to make sure to order the correct pipe.

The last of the parts will be going to the machine shop here in a few days, so I will be able to start putting it all back together shortly after that! I'm pretty excited to get it back up and on the road. ..Then it's just a matter of rebuilding my dual range tranny, or finding a solid core. Should be fun!