cricket

I was afraid of that. It looked more like my sister's old 80s wagon badge. Thanks, Ennio

I don't remember this being a 1979 emblem. Wasn't the 1979 4WD hatch emblem a big "4" with "wheel" and "drive" to its right, "wheel" being just above "drive"? Help please. Thanks. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8057390330&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:MT:1

Thinking about a 1998 L with 185,000 miles. I searched the threads about Foresters and there's really negative and really positive feedback on the Foresters, not exactly year specific. With 185k miles, what should I be looking, listening for? I'd appreciate feedback on the 1998 Forester. I might test drive it tomorrow. Thanks.

My repair manual has emissions diagrams for different generations of Subarus. Compare the oldest with yours and that will show you what needs to be "deleted" to de-emission your Subaru. It would seem to me that all you absolutely need is the vacuum advance line AND the crankase ventilation tube. You can turn the crankase ventilation tube DOWN and away, to create a negative pressure at its open tip. This is a simple way to run your crankase gases out of your engine and out the tube. The PCV valve is useless in my mind so you can probably do away with that too. Everything else can be removed and/or plugged up. They even have those nice vacuum cap kits at Rose Auto (or whatever is they call themselves now--Discount? Murray's?) .

Okay, so who called the guy and bought it? It's been CANCELLED at eBay, REMOVED! Who has it?

Would help if you removed the air cleaner. Is the anti-dieseling/cut-off thing disconnected (wire broken) at the carb?

Last night my straight pipe (the one a local shop replaced that first muffler with) came undone at the clamp engine-side. I noticed that if I pull the pipes apart there's about a 2 or 3 inch gap between them. And that got me thinking ( )...what if I inserted a bypass valve? Anyone here ever install one? Where could I get one?

Well, I would certainly bid $100 for the BRAT just to get the wheels. The problem is the cost of getting the BRAT and/or wheels to me. Cheaper to drive to Raven's and steal his wheels! (Hope he doesn't read this). I'm also thinking of wheels that would look good with the wagon lifted, like those Armament things. Or black wheels, I like the black a lot since I've rattled canned my wheels in black. So let me think about this one. Man, this BRAT would probably have more parts I need, like the jack and handle, spare wheel tie-down, battery tie-down, etc.

Well, for what it's worth, DIBS ON THE WHEELS. That is, if someone buys and parts the BRAT.

This looks like a good project or parts BRAT. Just thought someone here owns it, or know who owns it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4628655612&sspagename=ADME:L:RTQ:US:1

Would the 81/82 bolt right up? or are the mods needed? I thougt about transplanting my Lt1 into the gen 1, but it's too big. Showing my ignorance here, what's an EJ25? Thanks.

Will an EA81 or EA82 fit into a gen 1 4wd wagon?

I had a slammed Yugo. I'm lowering my Roadmaster this week by 2 inches (not slamming) . But I'd NEVER even THINK of slamming a Subaru! The heresy!

If the key works for the hatch lock, will it necessarily work for the ignition? Dumb question, but sometimes a key will work on a door lock but not on the ignition....

Or, 1. call locksmith 2. she comes to you 3. makes key and starts car in 5 minutes EASIER (a lot more money, a lot less time) I was reading my repair manual. I can't tell if my gen 1 wagon has the shear off bolts. Or if I have to remove the steering wheel, disconnect and remove the steering shaft. If so, the removal seems really really complicated. I'll have to look at it in the morning.

This sucks. According to my Subaru parts counter guy, his sources say the key blank and the ignition cylinder lock are obsolete. Now I'm stumped. I can't believe I lost that darn key.

Cool. Reminds me of races in Ecuador in the 70s. These would race along the Alfasuds, the Minis, the Datsun mini trucks. Oh man!

Right. Especially to a total stranger like me. I'm supposed to call 1-800-SUBARU today (that doesn't even come up to seven numbers!!!), per suggestion of my local dealership, "to see what they can do." Whatever. I'll give them a call though.

I know a local locksmith who was able to cut my Yugo key on the spot without vin or any other information, just cut and try, cut and try. She was in and had the car started in less than 5 minutes. She's awesome. Her dad was a locksmith in Lebanon. Like father like daugher?

thanks, i think i'll just repost.

actually, that's why dealers ask to see your proof of ownership before they cut your key! I worked for Heinzt Rent a Car in the 80s, and we were able to cut keys for any car on the lot with a key code book. pretty cool.

.... at Gillman Subaru North Houston. I lost my Subaru key. I called my local dealer. I'm supposed to get a call back tomorrow to see if they can do it. VIN "too short," etc., etc. the usual. Can anyone here make a key from the VIN?

Okay, thanks. Sorry, I don't have an extra rear view mirrow. Also, I'm reposting my list of WTBs to the wish list thread. Unless you move it (please). I'll print the list out next time I hit the pick and pull in Houston.

You're a gold mine. Thanks for the info. Now I need a clock!

This past weekend I installed an original Clarion AM radio and a not-yet-cut-open radio/vent/lighter/clock console (both of which I got from Subieguy--thank you!). I noticed a white four-prong female connector that didn't seem to go to anything that I could tell. Is this the clock connection? Thanks, Ennio.