dangerous

Yeah it's the P0420 code. Is the fuel filter in the fuel tank on this model, and not servicable? Haven't got my hands on a repair manual yet.

Ok thanks. Wondering how difficult that is to change myself. Watched a video on youtube but not sure what kind of vehicle the dude was working on, and couldn't find a video specific to an 07 Outback. Does anyone happen to know which other year models have the same mechanical configurations? Just bought the car up in Denver (Where they do emissions testing) last week the guy at Auto Zone who did the diagnostic thought that maybe the change in altitude might have something to do with the oxygen sensor not reading right. He had suggested using a catalytic converter cleaner to run through the gas. Would this possibly solve the problem or just be a temporary fix? What he said also is that the quality of the gas we get down here is quite a bit lower than what they get up in the Denver area so if that's the case do I need a sensor that can accommodate that?

Hi my cruise light is blinking, and the cruise control stopped working. Tried what it said in the manual to try to turn it back on (that is to turn it to acc or lock then back on to the on position. It didn't say to push the cc start button or anything though) as I think it got turned off when I had a diagnostics run on it but it did work before that. It had just turned it on and it shut off when the check engine light came on which is why I went for the diagnostics which turned out to be that the catalytic converter sensed it wasn't running optimally. Would the fuse have fried when that happened? If so which fuse would it be? This is the 2.5 engine not the turbo

So there is a 04 that had the head gasket replaced was resurfaced and the guy is telling me that the gasket that was put in was whatever the dealer recommended. Would that have been an OEM turbo gasket that the dealer recommended? The car has 216 k on it and he's asking $3600 also has new timing belt, valve cover and intake manifold gaskets, water pump, plugs/wires, serpentine belt, and cv axles both sides. Anything else I should be looking for or good deal on this car? I did look at what KBB said what it's worth through private owner or what a dealer would sell it for, but I figured that the values they said did not include the work it has had done to it.

Thanks for all the info folks!!!!

Looking to get a 00 to maybe 06 outback wondering if there were any particular years that have the least amount of problems with them?

Hey Fairtax haven't had the time nor the weather cooperation to get after it, but yeah no voltage coming out of either relay power is going in though. Will have to check the power to the ignition coil when I get the chance. Much funner car to drive than my rattle trap gas guzzling truck!!!!

Don't have a code reader, and the starter cranks just no spark

Have the power coming in to both main n FP relays, but none coming out even though I've tried 3 different relays in each. Wouldn't have thought all those relays could been fried, but maybe when a friend was changing them out they could of if the battery wasn't disconnected? FP relay does click now though when clutch is depressed, and there is power going to ECU through the yellow wire pin 85. Anyhow it's still quite the head scratcher, and I wish I could get it running!!!!!!!

Tnx Fairtax I'll check that stuff out once I can get a day where it's not raining!!!!

The ignition switch was a thought a friend had come up with, and I'm 50 miles from the nearest parts store it was the easiest to get. I could put the old one back in easily enough

I've checked all the fuses they are fine, and I have power to the yellow wire on the fp relay. I jumped the power from where I had it coming in from behind the first split by the steering column over to where it was coming out from behind the heater core area where there wasn't power. Also have power to the r, y/r, blk/y, but not to the b/r coming out of thenew ignition switch I put in. The weird thing about that switch is there are 5 wires coming out of it where the old one only had 4, but the guys at Auto Zone had called a dealership who had said the 5th wire didn't matter. So it's looking like I'm gonna have to pull the dash back off, and maybe try to get in behind the heater core area huh? Problem is the big wire packet that is attached to the dash that is keeping me from getting it totally off thus making for a tight work space. I see in the book that the b/r wire goes to the clutch switch haven't gotten around to doin a test depressing the clutch, but it should have power coming out from the ignition switch even without doing that shouldn't it? Should add also that i had considered replacing the keylock cylinder, but opted for the igntion switch first as it was easier. The key had been a bit screwy in the cylinder though I'd have to play with it to get it out. Figured it was just a funky tumbler, but wondering if that could have something to do with it?

I had it grounded to the same spot to test the incoming n the out going, and I did not hear the relays click at all. I have 3 of each relay that I've tried also wouldn't think they'd all be bad.

97 legacy outback have power to both those relays, but with key in on position there is no power coming out of either. Actually .65 or so on one of the main relay ouputs but none on the other tried other relays also. Doesn't make sense to me!!!!

Power is going in behind the heater core area, but no power coming out. There is a single wire coming out to a double wire split, and one of those goes to the triple split that powers the relays.