mudduck

I gotta agree with Gloyale, sounds alot like a broken timing belt.

Got my 91 Loyale up to, well, way faster than the posted limit of 55, hitting 7k in first, second and third, bang shifting it. Then got out of it cause I really don't need a ticket for driving that fast. Took my 89 out yesterday, more or less just to make noise and try to kill whats left of the front tires. I don't know why, both cars have spfi ea82's in them, but that 89 never seems to have any problems spinning the tires on pavement, usually all they way through first, and part of second.

I have had this happen a couple times before. I was able to work the parkbrake mechanism while turning the piston to get it to catch the threads and get it to start turning. I did have the caliper off of the car and was working on it on my bench

I just removed that bolt on a pump yeaterday. Removed it from the enginge, and used the impact on it.

Haven't had any luck with gettin these things out of the head. Sooo, I guess I'm gonna look for a replacement head. Anyone have a pass. side head and lifters for a ea82 around NC?

Haven't had any issues off road running coverless. The only issue I had was a branch coming up from the bottom of the engine compartment, and just missing the t-belst, rad, and fanbelt, but that was from pulling logs out of the woods and making a path with the car.

I had two goodyears blow on me. They were both brand new too. They had maybe 10,000 miles on them if that. Were always loud on the road, then one day one let loose. Sure was a fun ride! A week later, the other goodyear got massive bubbles on the tread surface.

I can't say that I have ever broken a "slow cooked" bolt. Then again, how does one tell if the slow cooked bolt is done, or still cooking? And how abput deep fried bolts? Are they any easier to break, or are they stronger? I have in fact broken a bolt that had been "boiled", but I am about 100% sure that the failure in the bolt was not from "boiling". Baked bolts, I have busted and cut a few of them, again, not so much thye baking process, but from the rusting process.

Didn't you mention swaping the engine, and had the problem with the old engine? You might want to check harness.

My 91 would do this. I cleaned out the pcv lines and the IACV and it seemed to solve the problem. And how are you running without the toilet bowl gasket? I just rebuilt a throtltle body, and dont see any way it wouldn't leak without that gasket.

Purple Power. Don't dilute it. That stuff is awesome! And a little elbow grease.

Well, no luck. Got everything plugged best i could, and cranked up the air. Still with no luck. I had got the other two out with half the pressure, and they shot put like bullets! I don't want to damage them. I really don't want to have to take to a machine shop just to get the lifters removed, yet don't want to mess up the lifters, or the head.

If its like my 89 it will. But I removed all the A/C plumbing and have two holes left over on the pass. side fire wall.

I will give that a shot. Air worked on the other two in this head.

EA82 head. I cannot not get two lifters out of the head. Tried compressed air, and that didn't work. Have tried everything to get these out without damaging them. They will wiggle, spin, but won't come up and out. Any ideas? Don't want to damage them, or the head.

PB Blaster, heat and a bfh, and a little paitience.

Well, I bypassed the heater, and it would run real warm, not hot, but not exactally cool, but with the random temp spikes. I hooked the heater back up, and pulled the t stat, and it runs good cool and steady, Takes forever to warm up, but for now, its working. After reading what youu said about the hoses getting firm, its doing about what your discribing. And temp seems to want to spike rinning around 2-3000 rpm, It could be the head gaskets.

Just as the title says, EA82 spfi in my 89 wagon. I'll start from where the problems started. Ran up to the store the other night, ran inside got smokes and come back, and left the car running when i ran inside. Heater was blowing warm when I went in, and blowing ice cold when i returned. Also noticed the guage was reading right at cold. Huh, that is strange. popped hood and poked around real quick, didn't see anything leaking, no smell of coolant nothing. So, i start to head back to the house. As soon as I hit the road, the temp spikes to 2/3s on the temp guage. Oh crap, I thought, as this cars guage always reads just about 1/4, even on the hottest days. and the heat came back to working also. Then temp dropped back to normal just as quick as it got warm get home, let car cool, check coolant, full. Huh, strange. So, next day, i start to do a little pokin around. Start car, and let it idle and warm up. car got warm, heater blowing good and hot, nothing unusual, so I take a ride. As soon as i hit the road, temp starts to go up, and heater starts to blow ice cold? What the? gets to bout 2/3ds again, and drops down back to normal, then rises to bout half. Runnin warm for this car. Heat works great again. But also noticed that water was getting pushed out of the overflow. So I figured Id swap t stat with a new OEM t stat that I had around. Changed that, topped of coolant, front end up in the air a little, engine running. fill er up, and let idle. starts to get warm, the warmer, the less heat heater is blowing. Gets warm, and then tappers off just above half way mark. Also noticed starting to push water out overflow jug again. Shut it down, take a smoke break. So, now I'm thinking air pockets, so I jack up the fron end again, and pull the cap, and top it off, takes just a little water, bout what was pushed out og overflow, and drain some from overflow tank. Maybe air in the core? Pulled heater core lines, had coolant in them, but what the heck, I,m right there at them, why not back flush, and give it a good cleaning. Back flushed with water, compressed air, water, more air, and then filled with clr, let sit 20 min. Flushed out all clr with hot water. Did the clr treatment two times, and not much crap really came out. Filled heater core up with water, hooked hoses back up, topped everything off, front end up, blah blah blah, ya know the routine. Runs at idle for a good 25 minutes, and flushing the core must have done a little good, cause it was great to begin with, now it will run ya out on the low setting! Coll, maybe there was a air lock. Nope, start down the road,gettin hot. So back to the house. Ended up going and getting an aftermarket tstat(yes, i know better) Tossed that in. top off water, run at idle. No issues. run down the road and back, no problem. cool, problem fixed? NO. Rum up to the store, leave car running, come back out, and the sob is runnin warm again, after sitting at idle. And blowing cold air. I did note that the upper rad hose is tight, and warm, heater hoses are both hot, even when blowing cold air, and the lower hose is warm, but cooler than upper hose, and that the radiator don't seem to get warm. So, I bypasses the core with a loop of hose. Rad gets warm then, like it would normally, and also noticed coolant wasnt pushing into the overflow. Ran it dwon the road, the temp stayed ok for the short ride. .And before pointing at other things, the radiater is a good radiator, replaced not to long ago, and it don't have cool and hot spots, cooling system was flushed a few monthes back, newer rad cap when i did flush, and all hoses seem to be ok, and aren't real old at all, tention on the fan belts is good, I mean, I have checked all that could be the obvoius problems, but no thing is helping. The electric fan is working, but rarely ever kicks on, even in summer, as i said before, it has always run nice and cool. But, when it is running warm, radiator is cool, and the fan dont kick on, With the core hooked up, started to have the same problem, and it ain't ever consistant. The temp will run up, and down, stay at half back to 1/4 up to half stay there back to 1/4 up to 2/3s and it don't mater if i am driving the tits off of it, or driving like a little old lady going to church. If i hold the engine at 2000 rpm, when sitting it tends to spike quick. The water pump ain't that old, but it seems to be related to the heater core? After all, I bypassed the core and it seemed to make a difference, but then again, I didnt run o long like that either. Sorry for a long winded post, wanted to try and be as thorough as I could, but I am stumped at what could be going on. Thanks

I'm about an hour or so west of ya in Asheboro, out here in Randolph County. Got an 89 with 2" lift and a 91 Loyale.

I picked up a 92 Loyale auto from a buddy of mine that had the same problem. He rigged up a push button start for it, but it was that switch. Found out that the switch was bad after doing a 5 speed swap on it.

I got one out of a Montero in my 89. Fits perfect on the dash right in front og the clock. Taped into the power from the clock so it lights up with the rest of the dash lights. Has oil pressure and a volt meter also. Its kinda useless, but it does look cool in the car, and yes I have had it maxed out at 30 degrees in any direction, more than a few times.

Hollow it out so you pass visual inspection. As long as it looks like you have the cat, you are good. If you are set on haveing a good cat, I have a y pipe off of a 92 kickin around that i could let go of, and could take your old off your hands.

Are you talking about the cat or the resonator? if its the resonator, just hollow it out

Make sure you carry a couple of pieces of plywood too, so the jack don't sink!!

Yep, atleast if it cost what it does around here. I got a brand new copper/brass radiator for my 91 a couple years ago for around $100. Cost almost as much to have it rebuilt. my 89 had an aluminum radiator with plastic tanks and seems to be holding up just fine, and its my daily driver, workhorse, and offroad play toy. It gets run hard, but hadnt had any issues yet.