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Hey so today I made a cool front bumper for my Subaru RX. Its not done yet still going to build in a custom two piece skid plate into it. All I did to make this was cut the bumper support out until the only thing left was the support. Welding some steel tubing into it untill it started to take shape. I am pleased with how it came out i just need some WRC looking lights to complete the look I am going for. The rear bumper is 4x2 steel frame rail that I stacked onto each other and simply bolted them up to the stock location of the rear bumper support so I can switch back easily. Stock Bumper support cut in half already. Then removed some more of it Welded the first 1x1 steel bar into the beast Welded an interesting shape and stuck with it Slowly started adding more metal Hood closed and fender just hanging on Now moving onto the back I built a custom trunk and frame into the car here it is without the bumper. Looks intense already. Caged intense trunk also another view Custom rear bumper Drilling holes Don't mind the welds =) flux core wire no gas in the winter usually with snow coming in haha Also some trunk pics other side

It goes right through to mounts I even welded some extra flat stock metal to the mounts all due to rust. I built a truck frame into my rx That included making most of the mounts for the subframes and suspension from scratch. The towers were cut then renforced both inside and out Even weled some thick flat stock into the mount Did the same on both sides Dont worry the trunk is the same style lol I will start a thread once the full frame is done I have done about 80% of it. This is a tease of what I am talking about I am gonna advise you to never try this The seat swap was one of the easier things I did on this car. Also I know the welds are not too hot they are done with flux core and I taught a lot of my buddy's how to weld on this car.I redid and grinded a lot of welds already.

Yea using the loyal rails is probably much easier and a great idea but due to all the 90s Subaru's seats I have decided to mod my floor for it haha. Also yes I have used them in a 1995 Impreza coupe i built. I like them a lot better than the duct tape specials that i previously had in this car.

It uses an inverted(convex) flare and seat is outward. The fitting I linked is the correct one for the T I linked. Its not a bubble flare for the inward one you showed. Its a double inverted. To make this flare you use the flare tool twice. This flare works perfect they are all the same design on the inside Once with flare fitting on and once with it off directly against the flared end to flare the inside so it will pull itself shut. The end result looks like this Its called a double inverted flare. The T uses 3/16 Inch Tube x 3/8-24 Male fittings. Short or long http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/EDE0/121030/N1164.oap?ck=Search_N1164_-1_-1&categoryRedirect=N1164&pt=N1164&ppt=C0248 See that is the exact one I used on this line It screws tight and locks in place no problem. Just gotta really tighten these things.

What do you mean no seats? Also yes I already looked at that thread I thought it was pretty cool.

Hey everyone today I was able to successfully swap in 2000 Subaru Impreza RS seats into my RX. I had to custom fabricate some new mounts to get the seat to bolt. I actually used a seat belt nut to bolt in the back of the seats against the firewall. Above is a picture of the floor before I started welding up the front brackets. I made the brackets out of some extra metal I had laying around 1x1 inch square tube and 16 gauge sheet metal. Welded the nut into the backside of both pieces Then mocked up how the seat would sit and welded these up For the picture above I had to bend the bracket up so it could sit flush against the mount I welded to the floor. The back mount I just used the existing mount for the seat rail the way it was and bolted that straight down to metal box I welded up on the floor. The seats sit a little high but still very comfortable Everything is pretty straight but I am going to do some fine adjustments of everything eventually, Another view from the back below. I need to take some more pictures of the seat mounts when I am 100% finished the other side can use stock locations for mounting point just have to bend the tabs down and just screw the rear into the seat belt mount like i said previously. This is great because now I can put a bunch of different seats into this car.

Part# 070430BP http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DORN/070430BP.oap?ck=Search_N1163_-1_-1&pt=N1163&ppt=C0248 This unions needs3/16 Inch Tube x 3/8-24 Male fittings. Short or long For example something like this below http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/EDE0/121030/N1164.oap?ck=Search_N1164_-1_-1&categoryRedirect=N1164&pt=N1164&ppt=C0248 I fully understand about the daily driver. Also I might keep the mechanical brake there too because I am redoing the system into a two channel system front and rear. It would be nice in an event of a failure for the car to be able to still always have at least front brakes. Its gonna look wacky with two e brake levels. But also for inspection and safety it is probably worth it.

Hey I cant see why not just use a T in place of the whole unit. above is the hill holder in my RX. You can see above where I ran the line directly into the Hillholder. Then through the car pictured above. I am going to run a hydro e brake through it and see what happens. Once that messes up(Which it will) I am going to replace it with a regular T. Like the one picture above. 7 dollars from o-reilly's. Then just grab an aftermarket valve like this. http://www.polyperformance.com/Wilwood-Check-Valve-Flow-Control-Valve?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cse&utm_term=WIL-260-3501&gclid=Cj0KEQiA5oy1BRDQh6Wd572hsfkBEiQAfdTPCqx1aAFKnhFIVQ_78AhPQQAn_3Cr-NbQ2b9Jz9SqSBIaAvMT8P8HAQ. That is overkill but I am sure anything like this would work. already swapped my master for a 1997 Subaru SVX master cylinder also. Fun stuff though if I delete the hil holder I will definitely be buying the return spring like the one you are using.

Yes I am aware that is why I am redoing 90% of my lines in nickel copper. Then I am even building shields for them out of metal to protect them from the abuse this car is going to take.

Good info so i Just swapped a 1997 Subaru SVX master cylinder into mine. Those are the parts I used. Stock Line and hill holder all suck Got my old flare tool out Then made all kinds of flares haha Also I am adding a hydraulic e brake Ebay special with Willwood master cylinder upgrade. Got all the lines hooked up Kind of hard to see but this is how I did it In the pic above the line with white tape goes to the hill holder. That controls the front right and back left wheels. I changed it to control the rears. Red marked line goes to front left(driver side) and the other blue marked line to the back rear. In the above pic the line goes from the back port of the master cylinder into the E brake then back into the hilholder which has been re plumed to run just the rears. This swap sucked and was no fun I will update once I actually drive this car next month when it is actually done. Still doing rust repair.

I have an extra one with two port for sale if you are interested. I part SVXs out I even have all the lines still hooked up haha

I am using the AWD 1997 Subaru SVX ABS master cylinder on my RX. Going to T the ends to the front and use the the hill holder to split the rear. Also i am going to route in a hydraulic E brake for the rear. Will make a little thread eventually on it. Using a Wilwood compact mater cylinder for the E brake. =)

I am swapping a 97 SVX ABS master cylinder into my 88 RX. I had one laying around and couldnt help but do it after reading this haha.

Yes also I have to add it's a lot of work building frames into these cars. Lots of cutting involved. This is around the rear subframe mount. I also added frame rail into the side skirt.

Insane is what I am haha I have done stuff like this before! Although I was much younger and did not even have my own welder. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2200944 Did that when I was 16 and finished a year and a half later.

I own a 3D printer and I am somewhat certified in solid works. I can probably see what I can do for this thread. I have made some models of car parts before. That was for a Starion i have. I am sure I can try and work on some of these clips.

Hey everyone I am currently in the process of fixing up a rusted death trap called a Subaru RX Turbo. I am welding in a bunch of metal and while I was taking everything off the car I got a bit lost on what to do with the brake and fuel lines. They are all in bad shape and I would like to fix them properly with no compression fittings. Below I am going to post a bunch of pictures of the lines that were originally tucked up right next to the gas tank in the rear. In the photo above they are sitll in there stock location. As you can see I have a lot work ahead of me. The photo above shows some sort of proportioning valve. It has one line coming from the inside that the previous owner patched with a compression fitting. Below is a picture of this line. First of I would like to fix this line. Here is the other end of the line in the engine bay. Does anyone know If there is a way to buy this line brand new. I know going aftermarket should be as simple as buying the line that screws in and bending it myself. However I am not very familiar with bending lines and I need to get the proper tools to do it. The next part is the actual back section that is a complete mess. One of the lines split under its own weight shown below. Another view below My goal is to make everything safe and back to factory. If i can upgrade without spending too much I will. But I need some advice on which direction I should take to fix this brake system. The front is holding up and seems simple enough that I can deal with it. Another issue which is even worse is that my fuel lines are leaky. The pic above shows the problem area. Another closer view. Also underneath towards the back is not looking so good either. A lot of rusted out lines and cracked rubber that is not going to even supply enough fuel pressure to make the car run properly. Also I plan on EJ25 swapping the car, does anyone have any suggestions on a good external fuel pump for a an NA ej25? Any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks.

Good luck with the wheel bearing I have had some issues with axle stubs sticking into the rear axle. Had to have a shop torch the dam thing apart haha I laughed at the guy as he tried to grind the dam thing apart. Trust me when I say I tried everything to get it apart. Hope this never happens to you. its not too bad of a process but these old cars drivetrains corrode a lot making simple things tough. Good luck.

I have a set of 5x100 xt6 hubs for my RX. I am Very Interested in whats going on here.

I am currently doing this exact thing. I have a ton of 2x4 frame rail I am stuffing into the frame of my RX Due to all of the rust I am dealing with. I used small stuff on the rear of the frame. My car is not even worth fixing but I am going for it. CUT EVERYTHING Then Mock up Welds are obviously not great I taught a bunch of my friends how to weld haha But who cares Weld it with terrible settings and adjust accordingly =) The path for my RX is make it stiff and ready to take abuse. See what I mean Here is my frame rail I am using I made a crazy bumper for fun I Love steel and for the side skirts I am cutting them out and putting frame rail in there too WARNING GRAPHIC I am replacing the entire bottom of the car with new steel slowly I bet ill add just under 100 pounds when I am done because of how much I cut out If you want more pics Let me know =)