bakedpotatoechips99

This sounds like a real hassle to figure out. That said. The first and easiest thing to try is to completely remove the thermostat, and run the vehicle without any thermostat, and see if that helps, because occasionally a cheap thermostat can stick, causing trouble even if it is new. Also, I advise you to make sure to top off the radiator and overflow tank to their proper levels. I recommend performing a cooling system pressure test, and a cooling system leak test. These will give an indication if the new head gaskets are holding well, and or if there are other problems that will cause these tests to fail. These will require the special tools to do so. You may have a leak on the new head gaskets, or you may have a hairline crack in a cylinder head, or less likely, the engine block itself. Also, who knows, maybe your radiator needs flushing or the dust removed from its fins to allow more airflow through them. You can also pull a spark plug or two, or even all of them, and look at the color of the insulator on them for the proper color, which will let you know if you have a fuel mixture issue/problem. After all of that, Coors, Becks, or what have you, or a Root Beer to cool off with.

I am not a Subaru expert. But, I just replaced head gaskets on an '03 EJ251. You apparently swapped heads too. Do you have good compression? Not familiar with the computer compatibility. But, have you established basic workings of compression, fuel pressure, vacuum?

I realize the general consensus of caution. Regarding a mechanically inexperienced car owner, and relent on my encouragement of the spark plug change out job. Yes, it is true inexperience has little place for these things, at least without professional oversight physically present to prevent mistakes or misjudgment or improper procedure. An old hat is better than a bare head, old Russian proverb kind of thing. A hot cup of chai, and old spark plugs that still run are better than stripped out cylinder head spark plug threads, or loose plugs losing compression and misfiring.

The magnet is used to retrieve the old spark plugs from inside the spark plug tubes, after they are completely loose. There are magnetic spark plug sockets,which will hold the plugs in place somewhat but those are not 100% fool proof. Using a pencil magnet is much easier, and a magnetic spark plug socket is better for installing plugs than for removing them. But tape, either duct tape, masking tape, or electrical tape, even scotch tape can be used with a non magnetic spark plug socket to install the new spark plugs, holding them in place to the spark plug socket. Also, a nice touch is to get "wobble type" 3/8 extensions, or a set of them instead, or in addition to the 3/8 extension set for the socket (plug) and ratchet (rathchet (what is) A-bigger than a mouse S___ just a joke from my old buddy decades ago)

Those spark plugs last up to about 60,000 miles. Some say to change them every 30-40,000 miles. Also, since the steel plugs tighten into the aluminum cylinder head, I highly suggest some high temperature anti-seize compound for the spark plug threads of the new plugs before they are installed In any case, here are the basic tools he will require: I would suggest getting them from Sears, Advance Auto Parts, Autozone, the Home Depot, Walmart, or even online. A pencil type of magnet, does not need to be telescoping but that is also fine A 3/8 drive 16mm spark plug socket, A 3/8 drive universal joint A set of 3 or more 3/8 drive extensions of varying lengths one of which should be a stubby A 3/8 drive ratchet That is what he will need to change the plugs However, he may also need one or 2 different sized wrenches and or sockets and maybe a screwdriver to remove one or two things in the engine compartment blocking removal of the old plugs, and installation of the new ones. Say, maybe the plastic washer fluid container, or the battery. Maybe even a hose or two with a pliers.

Well, I can't fully disagree with you. I was perplexed myself with this one, as I realize even in the rust belt calipers last for years and years, at least five or more mostly. The car belongs to a relative, so, maybe it was brought to another shop, and they simply took the nicely rebuilt calipers out, kept them for themselves, and replaced them with old rusted ones. Who knows for sure. But all of the hardware was replaced as well. All of the boots for the pins, new pins, and, top quality extra high temperature guide pin lube as well. Just one of those things I guess. Also it could have been maybe the worn rear wheel bearings caused the rotor to wobble (there were new rotors installed as well with the calipers) and somehow jammed the piston in the caliper, compromised the seal, and water got in, along with road salt, and froze it shut with rust. Still leaves me in shock though how short the lifespan was of those calipers. Took the rotors with them too.

Car was not washed. This is likely a large contributing factor to salt staying around the caliper, intruding past the piston seal etc. The fluid was completely flushed in all 4 calipers when the rebuilt calipers were installed. And new brake fluid was used. No leaks in lines. There is a new mix of road salt with magnesium chloride I hear that is highly corrosive, and the State of CT is actually being sued by some owners of cars whose engine cradles rusted all the way through, and dropping their engines out. (not Subau's though). And, apparently there are dangers of semi trucks brakes corroding much faster as a result of this, posing risks to the general public. Obviously this new salt mix prevents ice on roads, but the costs to vehicles and bridges etc., caused by increased corrosion is being weighed. But back to the '03 Forester rear calipers. The single rear seal on each piston seem inadequate to seal out water. And no, they were not genuine Subaru parts. Rebuilt, so likely more porous from bead blasting by rebuilder prior to rebuild/re-manufacture of calipers, prior to my purchase and install, and subsequent rusting completely shut/stuck 2 years later.

Welcome Toasterman. The ol' timing belt and head gasket repair in the spring huh? I likely have the same scenario with an '03 Subaru. It seems like, Cometic .080 or .100 gaskets were tempting to use, in that, if there were any warping, a thicker head gasket might compensate, and with the added benefit of reduced compression ratio, both in terms of less chance of pinging on regular fuel, and also in less pressure on the new head gasket. Yes, lose some horses I know, but, "better an old hat than a bare head", old Russian proverb. But, a machine shop might be best for the heads, shave 'em down a bit, check 'em for straightness, and pressure test 'em, I know. I actually re-torqued the driver side cylinder head in hopes to stave of replacement until next spring. The existing gasket was leaking oil externally, and seems like leaking between combustion chambers after warm up, causing rough idle and inconsistent idle as well. No coolant or motor oil contamination yet though. Did not use the Subaru preferred method of torque. Loosened all, keeping some snugness on the lower ones, just enough to prevent coolant loss. Removed one at a time as far as I could, and oiled and or WD 40'd the threads and washers, then torqued in stages, 25, 51, 60, 70, 80, 88. Keeping my fingers crossed so to speak. Realized the motor really should be pulled for a good repair to head gaskets, and installing a new clutch at the same time. Motor weighs about 264 pounds with all accessories I think. So, planning on putting it on a 4 wheel metal dolly, after pulling with a hoist, to move it to the yard for repairs. Since I have no driveway or garage, and vehicle is on the street. Who knows, spring seems like an eternity from now.

Who knows. Bad front strut. Axle installed improperly during wheel bearing install. Wheel bearing installed incorrectly, and or bent hub. Ball joint no good. Control arm bushings worn or bad. Maybe even a bent axle shaft. Could also be a bent rim/wheel. A tire shop can check that for you, by putting the wheel on a machine to check for straightness in the wheel/rim itself. Maybe a bad transmission or motor mount. I would say, systematically eliminate each one of these things as a possibility, At what speeds and under what conditions are you getting vibration? Going straight, turning, or both?

DEAR "BUDDY17", "GROSSGARY" is right it would seem. And, he even mentioned disconnecting the headlights to prevent automatic daytime running lights from draining the battery. You can't really go wrong following his advice it would seem. I never worked on a 3.o Subaru myself, so I could only give general advice, related to my experience with 2.2, and 2.5 Subaru motors. Those bearing he mentioned for the pulley tensioner I believe, yes, those wear out on the 2.2 and 2.5 motors as well. I just replaced one (AC belt tensioner pulley) tensioner pulley, and it cost about 25 dollars. There is also a tensioner bolt that goes with that, and that occasionally is stripped or rusted badly on older cars/motors. You can go on ebay, and find belt tensioner pulleys and adjuster bolts genuine Subaru parts if you don't have a parts store nearby, or are trying to save a bit in the World of inflation and thievery.

Good Luck with that. Auto is great, just needs a bit more maintenance than standard, like fluid changes, and transmission cooler hose and line replacement. 2 hands on the wheel more often with auto. Stick shift lasts longer generally, yes,and one can push start and "pop the clutch" to get started in the event of a low battery or starter problem. But in these days of high traffic volume, and illegally "texting" drivers, 2 hands on the wheel tend to be more appealing. Wasn't it Jim Morrison who sang?: Uh keep your eyes on the road and your hands upon the wheel.

Hello all. 2003 Forester XS. I installed purchased fresh rebuilt stock calipers from boxes 2 years ago, along with new pads and rotors, and a complete brake bleeding, here in the North East. I just had to rebuild them myself using new pistons and new rebuild kits with a light honing, this last winter after water got into both caliper pistons apparently from by passing the outer piston seal. Really badly on the right rear.This caused stuck calipers, and completely separated the friction material on 3 of the 4 rear brake pads from their backing plate on smooth rotors. One piston was very badly rusted inside, where it should have been protected from any water getting in. My guess is the sand/bead blasting on the rebuilt calipers cause a compromised water seal from the start. Another is the design of the stock rear calipers seems to be not geared to keep water out well either. In any event, I put a bead of copper high temp silicone around the new piston outer seal, on the rebuild, but that really does not hold well over time due to piston movement and brake vibration. This seems ridiculous. Because, the calipers were ruined/stuck not from internal deterioration and lack of brake bleeding, but simply because water easily gets past the outer piston seal no matter. In any event, I may end up getting 2 piston STI calipers on there eventually. But I am shocked at the poor design allowing water in, when this vehicle is not driven off road, or abused. It is a 2003 Forester XS and has alloy wheels which may contribute to more water exposure though. I now believe that worn rear wheel bearings played a big role in causing excessive play in the hub, and allowing the brake rotor to move side to side ruining the brake pads, and subsequently causing the caliper pistons to shift and allow water in. Even though the seals were not torn. Still, I think the rear caliper seal is not very effective in keeping water out from the inside of the caliper piston, and makes rebuilding or replacing the rear calipers a much more frequent even than one would assume. I now also hose off the calipers in winter to keep ice and crud which traps moisture, off of them, but I am possibly eventually looking for a better caliper conversion like the 2 pot Subaru ones. Not for a performance increase mostly, but simply because they are possibly better designed to keep water out of the caliper pistons. And will not require rebuilding as often. I mean, if I am looking at a caliper rebuild every 1-2 years, or at least replacing the outer caliper seal, that seems excessive. Any thoughts anyone?

I somewhat improved noise from a driver side front window by going to Home Depot, and getting a $5 roll of thin stick on window and door foam weatherstrip. I forget the size and thickness, but likely 1/8, 3/16, or 1/4 inch. And adding that into the existing door seal rubber on the rear view mirror side of the window, maybe a bit on the upper front as well. I think I doubled up in a key spot after a test drive revealed a specific area near the mirror in the front whistling. Under the flap of the door seal, just to create more pressure when the window shuts. I think I have to re do it though, as I did this 2-3 years ago, and the noise seems to be back, likely the weather strip has compressed and dried out over the years. Makes a big enough difference to get rid of most of the annoying wind noise roar, and reduce it to a hush.

As far as your ABS issue goes. I had to remove the fuse for the ABS unit in a couple of older '95 legacy A.W.D wagons to stop the buzzing. At some point in the future, maybe after rebuilding the brake calipers, I don't fully recall, but I think I was able to re-install the fuse in at least one of those cars and got no buzzing, and functional ABS again. I think one had a front ABS sensor that had it's wires cut, which I repaired/spliced back together. I advise scanning the O.B.D. codes for issues with sensors and your "warm issues". Then, you may have a general clue as to which sensors may be of concern. Also, valve cover gaskets can leak into the spark plug tubes and cause misfire, but possibly clear up as the engine heats up and run well again. Only to cause trouble the next starting cycle.

The coolant might be getting into the combustion chamber. However, you might see white smoke from the exhaust tailpipe if it was bad enough. It could be an intermittent problem. Also, a bad head gasket can also push high pressure combustion gasses into the coolant, and force coolant out of the overflow tank and ultimately onto the ground, and by the time you check it, it is cooled enough, that it is no longer bubbling over into the overflow tank. and any evidence of overflow is evaporated. Hence, low coolant, with no evident or obvious leaks.

Looks like MAYBE head gasket trouble.

Horse and Wagon long gone. Now, computerized fuel injected, radial tired, antilock braked, microprocessor controlled, hunks of metal waiting in winter Walmart parking lots, which are often ice skating hip and ankle braking hazards. I got slip on cleats/studs for my shoes. No need to bring hay to the Subaru out in the lot though.