5000fingers

Our 2011 Outback stalls intermittently, something like once a day. Usually coming to a stop, especially uphill - and *maybe* a little more often when the engine isn't fully warmed up. What could cause this? And if it's the torque converter, how would I confirm it?

I have a 2011 OB, and I had a problem over the winter with a lot of rain getting in the moonroof, soaking the carpets, etc. And now the stereo won't work. The unit turns on and lights up, but there's no sound at all from any speaker. The fuse under the hood is fine. What else should I look for?

Last week I replaced the fuel filter on my 2011 OB, and checked very carefully for leaks after reassembly, no problems with the car running. Well, yesterday I filled up the tank and drove home. This morning I went outside and found a puddle of gas under the tank, and still dripping. Turns out the gas is leaking from the rubber gasket – which I thought I installed and torqued correctly. The gasket looked to be in good shape, so I didn't replace it. So just now, I tightened the 8mm nuts even further, but it's still leaking. So, off to the dealer to buy a new gasket I suppose, or maybe I did something wrong somehow, I don't know. It seems like a no-brainer, it can only go on one way. The question is what I do now, with a full tank of gas that is leaking out the fuel filter gasket. And I presume a lot of it will come gushing out all over if I take open things up again. In the old days I would just siphon a few gallons out and make the repair, but I know modern cars have rollover valves and other devices that prevent siphoning. So, please advise: 1. How to deal with the full fuel tank in order to open up the fuel pump/filter assembly again. What's the best way to stop the leaking, and do the repair without pouring fuel everywhere? If I jack up the passenger side, would that allow me to take off the fuel filter assembly without gas spilling out? And: 2. What might have gone wrong with my repair?

It does nothing. No sound. OK, but if that's the case, why would the right button raise the sunroof up? Shouldn't it only retract it? I will try that, thanks. Do you have a link to any instructions for how to remove the sunroof without removing the headliner? I can't find that on YouTube anywhere.

I have a 2011 outback that is leaking water in through the sunroof. I tried to slide it back to see if I can clear obstructions from the front drain holes, but I can’t slide the sunroof back. The left sunroof control, whIch is supposed to raise and lower the glass for ventilation, does nothing. The right control, which is supposed to retract the glass, just raises and lowers it for ventilation. Weird. Then I realized that I don’t think we’ve ever even tried to retract the sunroof. Which begs two questions. Do I have a sunroof that doesn’t slide back? Is that a thing? And if the sunroof by design does not retract, how can I access the drain holes to clean them out? Please don’t tell me I need to remove the headliner.

We just had a bomb cyclone of rain dumped on us, and the bottom of our 2011 Outback has waterlogged. I can't find any possible source, I can't see any coming in from the sunroof, or anywhere else. But it's getting in somewhere. So, are there any good ideas for what to look for, where water might be getting in? Secondly, it's causing some weird electrical problems. Even when the stereo is off, I'm hearing lots of cracks and pops coming through the speakers, that are somehow related to engine speed. Weird warning lights coming on and off, seemingly randomly. Are there any ideas as to what's going on there, and whether or not that might be a clue as to where water might be getting in?

I have a 2011 Outback (4 cyl engine), and it is stalling out at stop signs. It is not throwing any codes, or having any other symptoms. What might be going on, and what can I do to diagnose it? The local mechanic is pretty stumped too, saying that the only thing he might try is a new torque converter. But I don't want to just throw parts at the thing, especially when they are that expensive, and I don't understand the issue. I'd appreciate any insight you can give.

We brought it in for some noise in the front drivetrain, and he diagnosed that as a bad CV axle. I can easily swap that out, but in the process of diagnosing that he looked at the CVT fluid. He didn't drain it to check it, just looking at the fluid with the dipstick. So maybe the next step would be to really flush the fluid out to take a look at it, and see if it really does have *shavings,* and not just an expected amount of "glitter." BTW we've had this car for several years. I'm not sure we would go for spending $8K on a new transmission, because to be honest I don't know how durable the rest of the car is. So with the long-term future of owning this car in doubt, if it turns out this tranny is circling the drain, I'll probably just get a low mileage used unit to replace it with.

I have a 2011 2.5L Outback, and our mechanic, who is a very reputable mechanic in our community, is recommending a new transmission, at a nifty price tag of $8K. He says Subaru is the only company remanufacturing these transmissions, and theirs cost $6K. The only symptom that he is going by to recommend the new transmission is metal shavings in the fluid. This transmission is supposedly a sealed unit that we're never supposed to service, and I have my doubts about the recommendation. But the car has something like 150K miles on it, presumably without ever having the tranny flushed, and I'm wondering if seeing some metal in the fluid is enough to recommend such a prohibitively expensive repair. I mean, what transmission wouldn't have a little glitter in the fluid after 150K miles, and no servicing? So I would like to ask this board if seeing metal shavings really is the beginning of the end for a CV transmission? Should I flush the fluid and check again after a few hundred more miles? What would you do in my situation?

I have a 2011 outback, which just started with a clicking sound, regularly and every few seconds, underneath the passengers seat, even with the key off. It drains the battery. It sounds like a relay clicking. Is there a relay under there? What else could be causing it? Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the information and expertise (which clearly I don't have). I'm just looking for ways to make some modest upgrades to stiffen up the handling and performance. Maybe the sway bar mounts could be a good candidate for poly then, since those are fairly accessible for lubrication? How often do you think a poly bushing would need to get lubed?

Is there a good source for poly bushings (street grade) for a 2011 Outback?

OK, it looks like that was the "oil level warning light," not the oil pressure warning light. Good grief, what were they thinking?

It's a 2011 Outback, 4 cyl.

During COVID I haven't been paying enough attention to my Subie I guess. When I started up today after changing the sway bar end links, the oil light didn't turn off. So I immediately shut down and found out that it was 2 quarts low. That's bad, but not bad enough to trigger an oil light until just now. So anyway, I immediately topped it all the way up to the full line on the dipstick, and now the oil light won't go off. What is likely the culprit, and how should I diagnose it?