970subaru

1/2'' Hdpe?

for stock class any soob is fine, definitely the biggest part of the picture is the driver. seen several types of soobs do well but I really want to see a stock justy run because they would be sooo good in the tight corners and they are light as hell. imagine a fully gutted ~1500lb justy with a phantom grip or R160/LSD swap, few power mods and some rally tires! open, like the others have said the brighton is probably the best bet coupled with a motor that has a really broad powerband. the suspension options are very big; KYB GR-2 and AGX struts, koni yellow inserts, a bunch of different coilovers(DMS ), run lots of negative camber, etc. if I had the money for a dedicated rallycrosser I'd do an ea hatch very gutted out ~1900lbs with an ej25, maybe headers/exhaust/intake and D/R 5sp with 4 lug stuff, some tricks for negative camber, nice strut inserts and coilover setup rigged up, some 14" pugs with rally tires and definitely an LSD rear or maybe welded(that might push pretty bad tho). I'm going to look at a hatch project car this weekend.

fwiw the ej25 heads and mani can be made to work with ej22e management if need be.

sohc ej25 for sure.

i talked to a guy who was using a fuel pump to scavenge the oil from the turbo on his drag bike, but didnt get any real specifics. a drag bike would be a lot more forgiving to this type of thing than a hot street car running the pump continuously for a while rather than just enough time to stage, do a lap and get back to the pit. oil is going to have way better lubricity than gas through a pump but is also going to be way hotter and more viscous. I'd say its too tough to call. what about something like a GM hydroboost pump? those things can put out some serious pressure/flow and are cheap. gravityman, with the amount of other custom stuff you are doing, I'd aim for the KISS method and run the stock pump unless it becomes an issue.

you might have better luck in the classifieds section?

can I have a ride?

how good is this ceramic coating against detonation, is it really heavy and what does it cost? that operation on the sleeve sounds very risky has your machinist done this to an er27 before?

I'm 97% sure the D/R EJ trans was available in europe too. there's also the option of running an EJ automatic aka 4eat. they are quite strong and with a 4.44 geared 4eat with switched duty solenoid C for true 4x4 would be pretty good for slow stuff, and be a good bit smoother to drive over the rough stuff not to mention easier on the other parts of the drivetrain. however it would sap some power and be at risk of overheating unless you added a large cooler and it will be about 100-120lbs heavier than the manual(2 of us struggled to lift the 4eat while I was able to carry the 5mt by myself at stomach height with effort). not having total control over the shifting would be a pain, but there has GOT to be a way to set it up to do that since the shifts are controlled by some sort of electrical impulse. at least it can be locked in first and also made to not shift up from second or third, only down. phizinza, is it possible to put the 1.59 lowrange gearset in the legacy DR gearbox? solutions for the ej25: add dowels in the water jacket to make a semi closed deck, and run MLS headgaskets with new head bolts. that engine can make a good 130whp with some mild hop ups on the stock ECU.

i trust you have a phone book?

thats freakin cool, what do you think youll run for struts?

what kind of budget do you have for the car? front strut suspension might not cut it, and youre going to require a pretty extensive cage. I'd say start with the lightest subaru you can get your hands on in decent shape, I'd imagine that ea81's are a damn rare car there so perhaps some sort of mid 90's impreza or 80's leone. start cutting out as much unnecessary metal from doors, trunk, hood, etc. cage the crap out of it,cut off the front clip and build a double wishbone setup that will cycle around 14" travel and allow for a really tough skidplate of at least .25" thick aluminum to protect the radiator, engine, trans and perhaps all the way back to the rear driveline. engine: you are most likely going to want to run either an ej20(I think they came NA in europe) to meet your CC requirements or failing that, an ej22 2.2L or ej25 2.5L depending on what the next class up is. for a transmission, I'd say go for a dual range out of a legacy GX then put 4.44:1 diffs in it from a forester or legacy outback. sorry, you folks across the water got some different parts from us that I'm not super familiar with. rear suspension you might want to think about taking the whole rear setup from a jaguar XJ as that will allow you locker options with the D44 diff that subarus dont have(which you will NEED when you hit sand), its IRS, easily rebuilt to many different track widths and wheel bolt patterns, and be damn near unbreakable in a 1350kg car with an NA 4 banger. but you will probably need to run 4.11 gears as that is one of the highest ratios you can get from both the D44 diff and subaru EJ transmission front diffs. at a minimum you are going to need a really good cage, really good skidplate, beef up everything suspension/steering wise, lots of spares, and lots of stamina. bench racing is fun.

are you talking like dunes, a paris-dakar type car, or what? I didnt know there were deserts in sweden:lol:

sounds like a cool project. you going to turn up the boost any? wow, .769 4th, there are plenty of 5speeds with shorter 5th gear. is it quite a jump from 3rd to 4th?

sweet mounting bracket and battery relocation. is it quite a bit faster now?

draw through: -requires a carbon seal turbo due to vacuum placed on the turbo under closed throttle -same as tuning a carb NA, less specialized parts required -cant run an intercooler, danger to manifold:grin: blow through: -requires a fuel pump and boost sensitive fpr -can be intercooled -can run any turbo you want -more options on how to set up carb and jetting(too complicated to get into here unless you really want) btw you do NOT need to put the carb in a box, you simply need to boost reference all lines that would otherwise be atmospheric.

out of curiousity, how much does an ea71 weigh? ej22 weighs 269 with an "aero conversion" meaning probably alternator only and maybe different manifold setup(fabbed steel with carb). so its not what you'd call a heavy engine.

well actually there's no such thing as a 2.2tt. there was the 2.0L tt from japan which is known as the ej20h. yep, its some sequential nonsense. has 3 wastegates.

or could it have been because twin turbos on a 4 banger is not even a remotely good idea? believe me I have a ej20h setup in my possession, and convoluted would be a reasonable description. personally I don't think TT's have a place until there's at least 6 cyl's and space or cost is an issue. there are several "single" turbos out there that a 2.7L 6 cyl would work awesome with and are available dirt cheap.

i really like the idea of a CF intake mani, you could get it exactly the shape you want for best flow and it would save quite a bit of weight too. and how trick would that look!! however you probably wouldnt want to be building something pressurized out of fiber stuff if you dont know exactly what youre doing and have the ability to vacuum form it to get all the air bubbles out. also getting flanges to work might be a little tricky unless that stuff bonds to aluminum really well. I like the drawing, is there room for the piping to go over the radiator like that in the really low hood of the xt6? sorry i havent seen under the hood of one in quite a while and am having a hard time visuallizing where the rad is. nice short plumbing like that tho.

how about a really small buggy weighing about 1500lbs on some small cheap axles, 33" tires, DR trans, samurai t case, and really minimalist chassis? and leave the motor as is or put it on LPG. and put some highly narrowed ea81 sheetmetal on the front

closed course eh:grin: what all do you have done to that thing and are you running an rx trans? didnt know those things had that much top end to em.

utter garbage from china, thats what. there IS a reason they are so cheap remember if it seems too good to be true it probably is. a real garret t3/t4 goes for $500+. the ebay ones dont last more than a year and thats if your lucky. search on www.honda-tech.com for testimonials of how crappy the turbos are. not to mention a turbo of that size would be overkill as heck on a ea82t anyhow. if you really want to go to a garret a regular t3 off a volvo saab or ford would be fine, or you could do it even easier and get a vf11 off a wrx. holset hx30's are pretty nice turbo for the money too, theyve got a t3 flange. as far as the water lines, personally I'd just loop them together if you were to go to an oil cooled only turbo. it wouldnt be a bad idea to put an oil cooler in the turbo feed line but probably not necessary given the amount of cars that run fine without them. btw great avatar david!

better no, different yes.

like i said above- eaton m62 off a pontiac, mercedes kompressor or maybe even one off a mini cooper S but those are smaller. ebay.