85Sub4WD

yes, you are supposed to submerge them in motor oil and pump them in and out until no air bubbles - is also a good way to ensure they are all moving freely

I have never replaced my crush washer, nor have I ever had trouble with it leaking (where would you even find it?) - biggest warning is to NOT overtorque your oil pan bolt IE use an impact wrench as I have seen some quickie lube places do - it will strip the threads out, and cause the plug to leak/fall out, baaaad things happen...... on the subject of oil viscosity - I like 15w40 so long as it satisfies API-SL standards for gas engines (ours require API-SF, which is an older standard, but 15w40 is generally a diesel engine oil, which is completely different, so I want it to meet tight standards for gas engines) Castrol RX satisfies this (API certified for gas and diesel engines) - reason being, it is a happy medium between 10w30 and 20w50 - no oil pressure startup problems and no leaks either 15w50 is an even better choice, because it is for gas engines, but the only company I know is making it is Mobil 1, and that is like liquid gold cost-wise (but it is almost unbeatable performance-wise) synthetics ARE BETTER, but more expensive - Castrol RX is natural, and Mobil 1 15w50 is synthetic - you can also generally get up to 7.5k-10k miles (5k filter change) on a synthetic, and only 3-5k on a natural, but if it is city driving, the interval is less avoid 10w40 because it has some inherent instability/gelling issues

nice - I think I may switch to something like that after the superbowl though, I will probably take my own pic, and play with it a bit still, me likes it - thanks for posting it

my prefered method of bleeding is a bit quicker, and easier (believe it or not) - no special bleeder screws are required either get two bottles of brake fluid - one needs to be about half-empty - and some hose that fits snugly over the bleeder screws remove master cylinder cap - make sure it is completely full of brake fluid go to first wheel - open bleeder screw (about 1/2 turn, maybe more), and shove one end of hose over bleeder (CONNECTION MUST BE TIGHT) and SUBMERGE the other one in your half-empty bottle of brake fluid start pumping - check the MC after about every 3-5 pumps - no one wheel should take more than 15 or 20 pumps. close the bleeder screw - make SURE you do not disconect the hose from the screw, or remove it from the fluid until the bleeder screw is TIGHT continue to bleed the rest of the brakes (in a diagonal fashion preferably, but it really does not matter) - note, you will fill your brake bottle at the wheel as the process progresses, make sure it does not overflow if the car is SECURELY jacked up, you can run the engine so you get power brakes durring this process - makes it a lot easier this always has worked for me, and I have had to do a lot of brake repairs (mostly on other cars), including the rear disc conversion - trust me, it works well yes, I know I will get a response saying that this method doesn't work for such-and-such reason - I have used it many times, and it has NEVER let me down - I also have a 71-year old mechanic friend who has used it since before I was born, without any problems - it takes me about half an hour to bleed all 4 brakes on my soob

if you have a dual carb setup, you may not have it - it goes under the ovular air filter cover, toward the upper rt side, looking at it from the front of the car - I know US versions with a single hitachi carb have it, but I don't know if the int'l version has it

technically, 4.2 qt, but the .2 never comes out Synthetic is better, I like Mobil 1, Castrol - the natural version of either is also good - I usually say "anything but Quaker State" - they STILL have formulation problems - I also avoid "high mileage" oils as a rule, because they can have funky additives in it Filter is also important DO NOT USE FRAM - FRAM KILLS ENGINES - if you have ever seen a fram oil filter cut apart - its scary, they are the ONLY manufaturer to use CARDBOARD to hold the filter paper together, everyone else uses STEEL - they can disintigrate at startup, and lodge paper in the bearings of your engine, causing it to seize my favorites are purolator or wix a little Marvel Mystery Oil is always good at an oil change too - follow the directions as to the dilution good luck

yeah - a while back I got home ~3am after a LONG day, and SOMEHOW managed to lock my keys in the car (including my housekey) - with the car running - hidden magnetic keybox saves the day yet again ....

what are the transmission controls like? if it has a pushbutton, it is a Loyale with a bodykit - if it has dual-range full-time 4WD it is an RX (it would have a lever to select range, and a switch to lock the center differential) the RX was the only car to get that tranny from the factory - it should also have a turbo under the hood if you want to be really shure... check the body for evidence of the "RX" decals on the bottom of the sides, and check the actual manufacturing date on the driver's side B-pillar (near the door latch) will probably be late 88 or early 89 - also check under the hood for the vehicle emissions datasticker - it should give you an idea of the model year - it may not be a "Loyale" - Loyales are MY 1990 and later if it has little/no rust and is a RX - GRAB IT - and KEEP IT BLACK!! - you can do whatever you want with the horn

would he really need to swap pedel boxes? why not just disconnect/remove the clutch pedel? - there is no need for the larger brake pedel from the auto - if it is like the EA82 cars, it should not be too difficult to pull the dash either for that matter - dunno for sure about the dash tho because I am not an XT/XT6 guy personally, I would graft the harness - but that's just me - seperating the harness out is a time consuming, but relatively easy process. That is how I did my SPFI conversion I think the conversion will be difficult, but very do-able the FSM suppliment has almost all the wiring harness routing info, just before the system diagrams - it is a VERY valueable resource

You neglected to indicate how extensive the rust is - if there are rust holes in the rocker panels, and around the strut towers, I would avoid it period - it may not be safe to drive paint peeling alone doesn't mean anything, other than it needs a paint job The car in the picture is the RARE RX edition of the "Loyale" bodystyle (RX was made from 1985-1989) - if it IS an RX, I am sure some of the members of the board would be interested in it for restoration, because it has rare features not found on the other "Loyale" series cars - I am sure they would trade you/sell you a reasonable car at a fair price - the RX is also turbocharged, though some of the other cars were too - an RX is actually worth a fair amount of $$ too, I have seen pristine ones go on ebay for over 5k even if it isn't an RX, it is still a very good, reliable car, with excellent traction capeabilities - actually the non-turbocharged models are more reliable, and probably better suited to daily driving - the car is fuel injection whatever model it is All-in-all, they are great cars, especially if you know how to service them mechanically - they are built to much tighter specs than any American car, and have simpler service requirements - if you do get it, I would find out when the timing belts were last done, and if it was more than 60k ago, I would do them - and probably the water pump as well - check the coolant hoses - just general "old-car" stuff, and you'll be good-to-go - it is a do-it-yourselfer's dream when it comes to ease of service, so don't be afraid to do all the servicing yourself Good Luck

OK - sorry if I seemed to be insulting your intelligence, but it would not be the first time someone had their lug nuts stolen/loosened as a prank anyway, I'm with Trogdor when it comes to the struts - if the top has rusted out, and they have gone through, it means your unibody is shot, and the car is not structurally sound/safe - I'm Sorry on the more positive possibility, if you really only do need struts (4WD cars have a large rubber stop to keep from "bottoming out" - I could see 2WD strut failure causing this) - rubber spring shims are sold at most auto parts stores that you can use to *TEMPORARILY* hold the back end of your car up - a JY would be your cheapest alternative for new (different) struts, but not the most reliable - I do not think there is a preload adjustment on your car, or you could open that up, and get more height out of them The struts off a 4WD car should fit, and they will be stiffer too - there are advantages to that good luck!!

generally in my expierence, they don't go "bad" - the hose that supplies the vacuum to the control gets accidentally disconnected, either on the dash end, or the underhood end - you will probably hear a vacuum hiss when this happens, and the A/C system gets stuck as you describe if you have a manual with diagrams as to how it goes together (IE FSM, Haynes, Chilton), the dash control is actually really easy to access and examine good luck

Actually, if you read the FSM, it is factory adjustable - there are three bolts that attach the outer trailing arm to the inner trailing arm - there is adjustment to the alignment if you take those bolts loose (mind you, you will have a tough time getting the two arms loose from each other) - there is not much adjustment, but you can at least adjust tow-in (burns up inner or outter edge of tire typically) and maybe even some camber or caster there is a good chance that your spring preload is improperly adjusted, (yes, those are also adjustable on these) and that can burn tires as well the rear suspension bushings can also go out, and cause misalignment

did anyone service your car recently?? brake job or the like?? are your lug nuts TIGHTLY in place??

generally, that is a problem with the O2 sensor, or a vacuum leak - the O2 sensor, and vacuum hose are cheap for the car, and given its age, it would be a good idea to consiter doing both - timing may be out of adjustment as well, use a timing light to adjust it, and you will see your idle improve however in my expierence with SPFI, they tend to do that every now and then anyway Good Luck!! OT - OMG I hit 1k! I spend wayy too much time on this board .....

of course since mine is an '85 it does not have a funky parking light switch (85-86 use a different dash:D) so I thought everyone on the board was crazy when the topic came up ...... anyway, I realized the difference the next time I was in a JY - I like the 85-86 dash better, (its simpler - and the only stalk you have is the turn signal, and the add-on cruise control was the only thing on it) but that's just me

looks like you may have lost a wheel bearing, or had a suspension bushing fail - beyond that, I don't know what could have caused it - take the wheel off and start jiggling the undercarrage, and find the slop - the slop is the culperit

all subarus i've seen have EVERYTHING wired together in the same harness, and different harnesses going to different parts of the car - so it will be a bit time consuming to seperate the harness out if you are planning on doing so I don't think the 4EAT allows for a manual lock mode in stock form - but I don't know those trannies well, so I may be wrong - even if it does not come with a manual lock ability, you could still probably bypass the TCU to lock the tranny manually - though you would probably generate error codes

PLEASE GET THE INFO - I have stuff that I need for my soob, and parts aren't as common in NC as I would like ..... Thanks

sounds like an O2 sensor, maybe fuel filter - have you tried to run any fuel injector cleaner through it?? that may help - changing the O2 sensor can be a real PITA, but the sensor is cheap (bosh one-wire universal - usually ~$15) good luck

buy a cheap multimeter, and trace the wires back from the choke until you get 12V - is there anything else that stopped working about the same time? did you check the fuses? I do not know Justys well, but this is just a normal T-shooting proceedure good luck

"harmonic balancer" is either an obscure term that means nothing important, or the guy means to say that he is replacing your tensioners (long shot) - the "bearings" thing is also a bit vague - wheel bearings?? if so, they are ~$50 for the kit - and probably less than $100 for the labor - not all should need to be replaced, just the ones making noise either way, $850 is VERY high in my opinion given the job - parts (including tensioners) are less than $100, and the job is 3 hours or less labor - even if the guy is expensive ($60/hour) then the total cost should be around $280, maybe as high as $300 or $350 NOT $850 I'd shop around, a timing belts DO need to be replaced every 60K, but the job is one that any DIY could do, and a mechanic could EASILY do it too. I would not say that this is a repair that would warrent junking the car.

that is not just a subaru thing either - a friend has an Mazda RX-7 Turbo II, and you have to hold the handles up on that car for the doors to lock too - something with the Japanese??

I think the two types of 3AT that are being refered to are the turbo, and non-turbo versions; there were also slight differences in the 3AT put into the EA81 vs EA82 cars; but I think it is negledgable - so far as I know, there was NEVER a 3AT with a center diff/FT4WD/AWD - all were pushbutton 4WD (except of course, the 2WD version) - given the reason for going automatic, I would say a 3AT should be fine, the big advantage to a 4EAT is the overdrive for highway use (which your son probably wouldn't do much of) and the fact there is no govenor valve to gum up - the turbo brat had a standard pushbutton 4WD version of the 3AT, probably the turbo version. The biggest advantage I see to the turbo 3AT is that the gear drive for the govenor assy did not have a nylon gear in it, that was prone to shearing on the normal 3AT version - the turbo version has steel gears, and slightly different internal operating pressures (refering to my 1985 FSM) the gear ratios are also slightly different, but once again, the difference is negledgable I have ridden in an EA81 with a 3AT, and it is a decent, smooth ride (they really do shift nicely when running right) - but it was not a fast ride