85Sub4WD

no silly parking light switch on steering column on this one - its an '86 probably timing belt - easy to fix enjoy it!!

hardware store bolts are fine, so long as you use a comperable/better grade bolt - most are grade 7 on the soob, some are slightly higher - my usual hardware store carries grade 8.8 or 10.9 - I usually use 10.9, because I like as much overhead as I can get, but either should work fine. Usually the heads are slightly larger too - a 12mm bolt head on a stock bolt would be 13mm on the replacement bolt. I have seen ones as low as grade 5 available, but I NEVER use them. The grades are standardized, so you can be *fairly* comfident a higher grade will work as well/better than the stock bolts

I KNOW Hal has a complete 1986 carb sitting in his JY - it is in the White 1986 Station Wagon on the Driver's side floor - there is also a tan 1986 station wagon that should still have its carb too - both are 4WD, but that should not make much of a difference - he does ship internationally, and he could get you a real, complete kit too his website is www.halspartsandservice.com many other board members also use www.1stsubaruparts.com I know hal shipps FAST - in fact if you call your order in today, it could very well be shipped before the weekend, though I do not know how he handles international stuff for liability reasons - make sure they know it is a US model, or they won't be able to help you had the question been asked a year ago, I could have shipped you my old carb parts and such, but I discarded them long ago .... Good Luck

what specs do you need, and what model car is it? - timing should be easy, as well as hp here is some http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/specs/general/specyears.html http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/specs/mechanical/engine-specs.html

could be one of two - either a Hitachi, or a Carter-Weber most all Weber kits I know of are for the Hitachi the Carter-Weber is a single-barrel carb, Hitachi is a dual barrel carb Carter-Weber is held on by two screws, Hitachi by four bolts

I do not know legacys (this is the old-gen forumn - pre legacy, impreza, etc) however, do your turn signals work? if they don't I would bet money on the flasher unit (if your car has one - probably does) if not, I do not know

Ahh - I was waiting for someone to suggest that - SPFI, or FI period is by far the best way to drag hp out of your car. Not to mention the fact that you adjust it once, and forget it - in the past six months, all I have done is check coolant and oil levels - and I haven't even had to top them off!! (of course I have to change my oil at a regular interval) Don't know how easy it would go onto a EA81 car though.

check to be sure your castle nuts on the end of your axles have enough torque on them could be bearing or CV - check for slop to be sure, it is not unheard of to get bad reman CV's good luck!

the SPFI systems are completely interchangeable 1986-1994 - the OBD system, while present, is NOT the same as the American OBD I - that was developed in-house and put ONLY on American cars as a sort of "test-run" for a federally standardized OBD system - OBD II was the final incarnation of OBD I, and it was mandated in 1996 - hence why all cars 1996 and newer have 2 (or more) O2 sensors - the later one is to check the catalytic converter for operation that said OBD systems have been around since the birth of the ECU - the Subaru system is very useful, and effective at troubleshooting problems - they are also simple - connect two wires, and watch the ECU light flash, count the flashes, and refer to the error code chart - I know the system well, because I installed it lock, stock, and barrel on my car the connector you are refering to merely is a dealer plug-in that checks to see that the CAS is working properly, among other things - it is actually quite useless - the FSM does not even detail how to use it, and that is supposed to be the dealer's reference tool - There was a tool to read the computers, but they are EXTREMELY rare - the ECU's cannot even be reflashed by the dealer - they have to go back to Japan for that. Incidentally - the chip in the Loyale/GL/DL's SPFI ECU is very similar to the Apple II's processor. That may give you an idea of the massive amount of computing power controlling your engine.

neither - they have an OBD system, but it does not follow either OBDI or II specs, there is no plug-in for a computer interface, but you can read trouble codes off a light on the control unit. There are extensive write-ups on this proceedure in the tech manual section, as well as in various threads if you search for them. OBD II is 1996 MY or later

if it is 2wd, shure no problem at all if it is 4WD manual, make sure it is in 2WD mode, and shure, no problem if it is an automatic 4WD - be careful - I don't think you can tow it, even in 2WD mode

OK - if you want a FINAL solution that WILL work - go with an OEM part - http://www.halspartsandservice.com is fairly cheap, and he is my source for ALL my OEM parts. They will ship to you, and they are a small operation, so when you call the phone you will get Sandy or Sharon, maybe Gilbert or Hal if they aren't under the hood of a car. Their prices are competitive, and it saves you the time of throwing something together that may/may not work - throttle components are NOT something to be played with, because of the dire consiquences if the throttle gets stuck open (blown engine/lose control of car and have a serious wreck) - it is a matter of safety whether it works properly or not. The risks aren't worth a $30 part!! Go with a REAL solution, OEM part or aftermarket, intended for the car, rather than throwing something together that could end up being dangerous. Frankly, I don't care who you get your part from, just make sure it is something that is safe and works properly.

My personal advice would be to dump the Hitachi and run with a Weber 32/26 DGV (or DGAV/whatever) because it would be a lot easier to rebuild in the future, and parts are easy to find for that carb. My expierence with Hitachi carbs has not been good, I went so far as to run the wires and convert to Fuel Injection - now I don't have to worry about all those nasty little adjustments. If you are interested in it, I think there is a manual on it - the Single-Point Fuel Injection (SPFI) or Throttle Body Injection (TBI) as most call it is a fairly simple conversion; you keep your heads and all, just change out your exhaust Y-pipe, and your intake manifold, in addition to the wiring, etc that needs to be done. Good Luck!! PS - the 2.7L Turbo Loyale wasn't stock was it and if it wasn't good job on the mod I know that was NOT easy

some people use a balpiene (sp?) hammer to tap the cracks shut - does it work? I do not know Subaru said in a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) that unless they get so deep that they intrude into the intake/exhaust port or go so deep as to hit a coolant passage, that they are OK, and should just be lived with - this was more for EA82 heads, than for EA81, but there are similarities in the combustion chamber design, so I guess it could also apply. Good Luck

The only way that would hold true is if you had more forward speeds in the automatic than manual (5 speed automatic, versus 4 speed manual) - an automatic is 10-15% less efficent not just because of the torque converter, but because the overall resistance of the transmission's moving components is greater - think about how automatics require an oil cooler, manuals don't - I have actually worked with professionals who rebuild both types of transmissions, as well as those who design them - the "lock" that occurs is not perfect either, unlike a clutch on a manual transmission. The 4EAT is a good unit, unlike the 3AT, but it is not geared well for the EA82, let alone the EA81 - your overdrive is WAYY too high for the engine to handle, so you will be downshifting a good bit on the highway - RPM change translates to greater fuel consumption - on a car with limited power to begin with, you are better off with a manual transmission, where you have a direct "locked" connection to the rear wheels, versus an automatic, where there is always some slush That said, if you had an ER27 (XT6 engine) you would probably do fine with a 4EAT because you would have enough power to handle the gearing.

I think most/all fog lights were a dealer add-on - I have a switch at home, but that is in Raleigh 160 miles from me here - I actually have a complete kit for the 85-88 with wiring diagram and all, but that is also at home (no, I am not going to sell it) Is yours the pushbutton type, or flip-switch type. With a multimeter you should be able to figure out the switch works by checking resistances across the terminals in different switch positions. Good Luck

the sensor itself could also be bad there is also a brake lamp warning indicator on some cars, to tell you your taillight is burnt out also there is the classic parking brake warning light - but that is marked as such my guess is that the level sensor is bad - it is a simple float in the resivoir - check to see that it is moving freely in the fluid, and if you still have the problem, it is probably a shorted level sensor good luck

in all honesty, I vote manual transmission all the way - they are not difficult to learn, and they will ALWAYS get better fuel mileage/power than an automatic because you don't have a torque converter to slip - the 5-speed dual-range 4WD is a very nice unit, and it works great in EA81/EA82 applications - best thing is, you have a low range for grunt-work - there is (was) a writeup on how to do the conversion too whatever you decide, good luck

I thought I had the same problem Mobil 1 75w90 saved me the trouble it is expensive, and it takes about a month to feel the effect, but it does work I have heard that redline is another good alternative

I talked to a Mobil Oil consulting engineer some time ago and found out that moly grease is not the correct grease for high-speed bearing applications, strait lithium grease is what you want moly will actually accelerate wear in this type of situation because moly itself is a solid material (just ground up finely - like graphite) it works great for high pressure situations where a back-and-forth movement is encountered (door hinges, pedel system, etc), but it is not good for wheel bearings, CVs or anything where there is a constant direction at high speed because the moly will actually accentuate bearing failure (like graphite would) luckily EA82 pullys are *relatively* cheap and widely available, so this should not be too much of an issue, speaking $$ - still I think it is a gread writeup - kudos to grossgary - especially for pointing out the importance of not overpacking the grease, yet another thing I learned from my Mobil Oil friend - the benifits of living down the street from someone who has been in the lube industry for 50+ years never seem to end once again kudos to grossgary

Finished getting the rack in, I would not recommend this for a weekend endevour because of the amount of time spent under the car, getting everything lined up and meshed is a bit tricky for one person. However, once I got it all in, it ran beautifully. (coverted manual to power steering) Of note, it seems that if one is doing an initial fill of the system, the pump will make a loud whir/whisting noise at the initial fill, even if it is topped off - I drove it ~160 mi back to school, and the sound lessened, but was still present. Is this normal? I know Ford power steering is VERY noisy, but are Subarus? It does not sound like a bearing problem, could it just be air in the system?

sorry to hear about your soobs demise - I was just talking to a guy the other day who lost his wagon years ago in much the same way. Luckily I have not had many rust issues, but I do have a few *minor* ones I need to address - I hate to hear about an RX dying - and rust seems such an unfair way to die - still, you actually did get to expierence one - good luck with the SVX

I think one of the concerns is that the gear ratios in the 4EAT are a bit high for the EA81 - not to be said that it is not still driveable - also I think that it is a bit large for the EA81 body, as the EA82 body was modified about that time, increasing the driveline area to make it fit - you'll need to install a EA82 bellhousing, but after that, I guess it could work

I think you can hotwire your car by running a wire between coil + and battery + and shorting the starter - if it is breaker points, this should work, otherwise, I think you need to fix your ignition switch good luck

OK - I thought the XT6 used the same basic front setup as the EA82/older with different (legacy-like) brake assys and such - on an EA82/earlier you can't remove the front CV axle and drive the car - because the axle is part of what holds the wheel on - the XT is an EA82, with the XT6 being weird - I actually have a FSM for the XT6 in the mail on its way to me, because I am consitering doing a mod of sorts :cool: .... I have not made a decision yet Thanks for letting me know though