85Sub4WD

the air direction fins in the dash are vacuum actuated, and the A/C compressor does run for defrost - if the A/C system isn't charged, unplug the blue wire to the compressor to prevent it from seizing Good Luck

oops - that site didnt have it afterall ...... I think all the ones I know of have been listed

well you got water in it and water+electricty=problem probably just needs to dry out - check the gas tank for water in it, and check to see if your engine/tranny/rear diff got water in their oil too Good Luck

um - the front wheel attaches to the axle spindle, so if you are intending to take the front axles OUT while they are being rebuilt, you will have a problem because you won't be able to attach your front wheels I have heard good things about NAPA's axles, and the NEW ones come with a lifetime warrenty - plus you should be able to find one locally - I think they are ~$100 for NEW axles. Good Luck

I have actually had a problem several times with the exact same thing - I am still not sure if I got it all out of the ducts. I think I actually saw a rather funny TSB on it - don't remember the title, but it seems as though the coweling is wide enough to allow vermin in - I know some people use screening to prevent further problems. Another note - make sure the fan itself is clean of debris - I had a loud noise and no air - dropped the fan assy out, and it was full of junk. Worse case scenario - pull a fan from the JY!! Good Luck

It sounds like you may have a problem with the offset on the flywheel, or the clutch was installed backwards. The flywheel is a two-step type, and if you take it to a machine shop they should be able to machine it to the correct offset - tell them that you think it may be incorrect. The clutch disc has two sides, it is uncommon but not unheard of for someone to install it backwards. The raised side should be facing you when you install it. Good Luck!

He he - Next time it may be better to post in the "New Generation" forum That said, ANY Subaru except for the ones with the pre-2000/2001 2.5 liter engine will give you many years of reliable service - the early 2.5 liter engine had head gasket issues - but after a single replacement, they tended not to blow again anyway, but a HG usually costs over $1000 all said and done I have to say all different years have their points - the EA81 (1980-1984) Subarus were not powerhouses, but they were VERY rugged and reliable. The EA82 (1985-1994) were more powerful, and also VERY reliable, but they did have timing belts, which the EA81 didn't. Note both were available in 2WD and 4WD versions, with the 4WD being the traditional style (NOT FOR USE ON DRY PAVEMENT). The automatics in the pre-Legacy cars were not terribly good, and generally did not have overdrive for highway driving. Though I have never messed with Legacys, I know they are also good cars (know people who own them). Realize that generally we are about a model year behind the Japanese home market, so generally any bugs there are with a new design get worked out by the time the cars are sold in the US. There is the aforementioned exception, but in the 36 years Subaru has been in the US, there have been only a few small slip-ups, compared to Ford (early Focus), GM, or Chrysler. The bottom line is that you should go for what you want. Subarus are rugged and reliable cars, just do follow the specs in the owner's manual for the service, and you should be fine.

I'd replace the fuel filter for starters (driver's side, near brake master cylinder), just make sure you de-pressurize the fuel system first, otherwise you will get a nasty surprise when you take the fuel line loose I would check the plugs, spark plug wires, cap, and rotor too, just for good measure

I still run my AC - but there is a factory belt system which does not have the A/C, but does have the PS - it uses two belts for everything - a good idea anyway because if one belt fails, you aren't up the creek without a paddle Just food for thought BTW - what do you mean by air compressor? the AC compressors must be constantly lubricated to work and not seize - refrigerant has oil in it which does the job normally, but I doubt it would last long without that lube I think some 70's models had a "4WD cooling fan" but I don't know if that would fit either

they did make non-RX coups, but they did not have the rear spoiler, nor say "RX" on the side - or have the bodykit if it is a three speed automatic (it is if it has a 4WD button on it) then it is not an RX - the only RX to come with an automatic transmission was the '89 MY - those are rare, and they have the four speed automatics - which are "Full-time 4WD" or called "All-Wheel-Drive" I vote GL coupe - the RX had "RX" written everywhere on it - and most did not have automatics, and none had a three speed auto I do not know, but I bet that no turbo coupe came with the 3-speed auto - but I may be wrong

honestly, when I was carbed, I had to readjust everything for summer vs. winter - the other possibilities are a worn-out fuel pump, clogged fuel filter/air filter, and condensation in the gas tank - many products are made to clean the fuel system/condensation out - I would go ahead and try one how are your plugs, ignition wires, cap, rotor? those can cause highway problems as well

I have used a detergent, like Pamalove, joy - any of those to break up the grease - mind you be VERY careful around your electronics - get something wet and you may kill it - also try not to get water into the intake manifold mind you, I don't wash my engine often - usually only if I am trying to find an oil leak

I'm now thinking clutch problem - but CV's to tend to be a bit funny so one still may be our culperit - this may sound crazy, but I would suggest finding an empty parking lot, and taking a tight right and left turn at a fair speed (not too fast - don't make the tires squeal, or the body lean hard) with the clutch engaged (pedle depressed) - if you still don't get noise when doing this, I vote clutch throwout bearing or pressure plate fingers the rationale behind this is that your front axles are under the most stress when you are turning - most CV problems first manifest themselves in tight turns, sometimes under load - if you take tight turns with the clutch depressed, you remove the load, but you are still moving the CV joint at its limit, so if you don't get any noise, then theoretically at least, your CV's should be fine - mind you I am coming up with this off the top of my head, so it may really be crazy DOJ means Double-Offset Joint - the joints on the transmission side of the axle are called that (I think) because they let the axle extend/retract (IE telescope) as well as work at angles, the front CV's dont. The DOJ's are rebuildable, the outer CV's on the front end are not - if you are 4wd, both ends of your rear axles are rebuildable good luck

the Throttle position sensor (TPS) is a little black bock on the side of the throttle body - it uses a variable resistor and a switch to tell the computer where the throtte is - I think there is a very specific proceedure for replacing them (switch position at such and such clearence .... ), but I do not know what that is - any service manual (FSM, chiltons, haynes, etc...) probably has it I agree that it is probably your problem if you have over 200k on your FI system, and the engine has been rebuilt, and you have new plugs, wires, etc - that is just about the only other thing that really governs the engine durring acceleration - the only other thing that remotely comes to mind is the MAF (mass air flow) sensor (attached to air filter housing)

do you mean that the clicking stops entirely when the clutch is engaged and the car is moving??? or does it keep clicking when the car is stopped?? if so, then it is not the CV - CV's generally start clicking only in tight turns, then it will progress to the point it will click whenever the car is moving - but depressing the clutch should not stop it - maybe soften it a little, but not stop it another thing - check for slop in the CV shafts - if the car is on the ground, twist the inboard DOJ (looks same as CV, but allows more movement) where it connects to the tranny - it should have NO play in it if it does, see where the slop it - and I would recommend checking both sides - also check all the boots to make shure they're good castle nuts need to be tight too (I usually torque them to 160 ft-lb, but I think factory spec is slightly less), as everyone else has mentioned, they need to be tight, or you could have bearing problems

why use a single viscosity? - I don't know andvantages you dont have as many engine-protecting additives as multiviscosity, you are using dino oil, which breaks down faster than synthetic, and you have to change the oil seasonally - I think there was even a recommendation in the owner's manual not to use single viscosity I have a neighbor/good friend who spec'd oil for industries (including auto aplications) at Mobil for years who told be that you should always avoid single viscosity oils if possible because they are poorer in quality/operating characteristics I still can't figure out the benifits - even if the oil is cheaper, it will wear your engine out faster. Better oil is cheaper than an engine rebuild.

I saw online a while back someone who had done the EJ swap, and it appeared as though they had used the EJ PS pump, left the rack stock - probably is just different fittings, but I haven't been there myself you may even be able to install a Legacy PS rack - I would not rule out the possiblility it may fit - but I don't work on Legacies, so I REALLY don't know - if you can get a legacy FSM with the pump specs, I have the 1985 FSM with PS pump specs, you should be able to figure it out by comparing the numbers (flow, pressure, etc) PM me if you want them I am looking forward to PS because it means I will be able to parallel park with ease And so my arms don't feel like jelly after I have been on the interstate for several hours Thanks dragonwingsubaru - that is just what I needed to know - I used the pully mounting system off a '92 Loyale a while back and I wanted to be sure that the later model rack would actually bolt on (big disappointment if it didn't) to work with the later model pump I will install - I assume the column-to-rack connection is the same as well I pulled the cover for the column off yesterday afternoon - I found that the steering rod in the tube is moving freely (any direction), causing the slop. The actual steering tube is stable, and firmly attached. Looking through the FSM, it appears as though the bushings are indeed shot (they are supposed to hold the rod in place in place). As it is a tilt column, it is only the upper section that has this problem, and I know where there is an '86 GL with an identical steering column (even the interior has the same trim color!) So I will just grab the upper steering column out of it. Thanks again

that does make sense, and I think it would work, my only concern would be that it secured in place well, because that could do some nasty stuff to the engine if it gets sucked into the intake hey - isn't that the same thing as an oil bath air filter????

yeah - I thought you had fewer miles on it - 255k is pretty heafty, even for a soob to do without a rebuild - I was trying to save you some sweat glad you made it back safely from Iraq , and good luck on your turbo conversion :cool: I know all too well about the Soob's "blinding acceleration"

OK I may be wrong, but as I recall - 175/185 refers to "section width" measured across the inside of the tire 70 refers to "section height" measured on the inside of the tire 13 refers to the diameter of the tire these are metric tires, so they do not use the SAE system of measurement, the cars came in as little as 165 section width, and all used the 70R13 diameter tire - therefore all rims are interchangeable (exception being some don't have enough space for brakes) as much as I have swapped on my car, I should know what does/doesn't work - and I have not had issues using 4WD with most any combination of tires even if the tires were slightly different diameters, if they are being used on snow it wouldn't matter because there would be slippage - if an LSD was involved, there would be problems he he - ditto on that - tight turns do NOT work well in 4WD, even if there is slippage - and 4WD should ONLY be used on slippery surfaces

not necessarily I had a similar problem (actually worse), and it turned out to be the shaft seal for my oil pump was shot - replaced seals on oil pump, and now it is news if I use more than a quart every 3k miles - if you browse threads, you will see that seals are generally the reason for oil consumption on these engines; the bottom end is rock-solid - unless you are REALLY smoking, the oil isn't going out the tailpipe, but onto the ground - realize this is a 1.8 Liter engine - if you were really burning that much oil, you would see it on the plugs if you do replace seals, use OEM - the aftermarket seals are generally sub-par on quality, and I have had issues in the past with them - the trouble is not worth the savings another thing that will foul plugs is worn valve seals - usually denoted by a puff of blue smoke when you first start up, then it goes away after the engine is warmed up - worst case scenario to correct that problem is a valve job, but I would just live with it - given the scenario you describe - if it IS oil fouling the plugs, this is your most likely candidate, because failed rings will cover them in oil - I have seen it on a soob with over 300k on its original engine is this a city or a highway car? if the car does not get up to full operating temperature before the engine is shut off, that can cause numerous problems, including fouling the oil quickly, fouling spark plugs, and buildup of carbon in the exhaust. BMW had massive problems with this in the 80's - they actually would pull the heads and blast them with walnut shells to break the carbon if you continue to drive in the city without fully warming the car up, and letting the turbo cool properly (if you do the conversion), you will multiply your current problem many times over, even with a fresh engine - namely the turbo will die fairly quickly from oil "coking" when the turbo is hot, and the engine is shut off with the turbine spinning BTW - what oil are you running? any less than 10w30 will cause problems (unless you are in the arctic circle) - I would recommend a gas engine version of 15w40 or 15w50 - 10w40 has some stability/gelling issues (all brands) so I avoid it - and 20w50 is a bit heavy for anywhere but a tropical environment - actually, I generally find 10w30 to be a bit light, except when it is really cold outside

diameter matters, width doesn't - you have the same diameter tires, just different width may affect handeling a bit (sideways slide), but not much - you shouldn't bind the 4WD

corrosion is also a possibility - anything that can interfere with the light being transmitted through the perforated disc and recieved by the photosensor can/will cause the CAS to fail to deliver the pulses - that means dust, dirt, corrosion, misalignment, oil, excessive shock, etc... that said, I have not seen as many CASes fail as you might expect given the technology employed (I have never had a bad one actually) - why? - I'm guessing the seals are good enough, but I don't know for sure make sure the timing and all (plugs, wires) are right too - that can also cause crazy issues good luck

I thought ash (white) is generally additives in the fuel - which this time of year is expected, given ambient temps - I thought it also indicated incorrect heat range??? oil is usually black crap - see it a lot on old american cars (1960's-1970's) My expierence is that Soobs foul plugs quickly, especially if they are anything other than Nippondenso or NGK - I've used all the american brands and bosch, with none lasting more than 5k - I have some densos in there now with more than 10k on them, and they look good (I had to do a little cleaning, but not much) check timing as well BTW - what brand/model is your wife's van? - 96-later Dodge Caravans are a PIA to do the plugs on (or anything else), especially the 3.8L engine - Aerostars aren't much better - vans aren't fun to work on period.... I'd still do the turbo upgrade tho good luck!

here is a link that might help http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 the EA82 FSM is from an '89 MY - it covers speedo calibration with FT4WD on a 2WD dyno - may get some ideas in there .... but read all the warnings I would not push the engine too far past redline - these things can throw rods past 6500 if they aren't built (forged pistons, rods) - I have heard several people say they threw ones at 7200 (don't exactally who, but I think Snowman had that expierence), so be careful - you won't always get a warning before it happens either - 8k is a bit high for an engine as old as these unless you had something done to the cams or other mods, you won't get much power past 5000-5200 - I think peak hp ratings dwell in that area, with some as low as 4800 - valves can start to float past 6k too, mine usually do it around 5800-6200 good luck