85Sub4WD

not only the cat, but the mixture on the carb sounds WAYYY off (carb may even need rebuild), timing, idle mixture, rpm and temp all affect emissions - if your car is 2WD it may have come with a control unit for the carb which you will need working as well (along with the check valves connected to it) - cats are more of a back-up for CO2/CO emissions issues - any engine catless or not, should be able to pass emissions if all is running properly, but a cat does help a LOT - not to mention the fact that they are required by law one perk is that you fuel mileage will be MUCH better after you fix the mixture

I had a recent encounter with the curb as well, it killed my CV joint and my wheel bearings - failed wheel bearings can cause axle seperation (with wheel) if the races pop out, and I have seen it, but never on a soob (still is fairly possible) the shock may have broken the spring pin that holds the fron DOJ onto the tranny, or the DOJ may have come apart given the fact that it came apart after impact makes me suspect bearings, but that may just be me honestly, I personally do not think it would be that hard to repair if you can find a parts car in a junkyard. The whole front suspension is relatively easy to disassemble and reassemble - I'd fix it

Ditto on the ticking - if you have a lot of ticking, then it may be a weak oil pump, but if there is one in particlar valve, it is probably a bad lash adjuster. I have had luck using Marvel Mystery Oil to fix those, just add it next oil change. If you do decide to pull the heads... There also tend to be "bridge cracks" between the valves, they are not to worry about unless they go deep enough to damage the valve seat/coolant passage There was actually a TSB about it, I think it was on this site somewhere, but I do not recall where - search should yield valueable info on the removal/installation just be sure to loosen/tighten the head bolts in the proper order to prevent head warping/damage, you will also want to have the heads resurfaced by a machine shop before reinstallation, or else your new head gasket my blow soon after installation. Don't be too afraid of pulling the engine, the EA82's in general seem to come apart/go back together very easily, and having clear access to the engine is important. The engine itself is relatively light, being aluminum, and of horizontal design.

correct (that's what I had) - CAS is *usually* optical, but more importantly they deliver a signal to a computer that determines the ignition pulse to the coil, rather than having the distributor deliver the igniton pulse itself - the disty on this delivers the ignition pulse itself, so the computer is a non-issue (the black box checks it for carb operation, but cannot control ignition) I would look under '84 or some later EA81 engine after that - they went to a simple, reliable 2-wire pickup system at some point (all non-turbo EA82 distys are like that), and all you have to do with that one is have a connector to ground and the (-) side of the coil - it is a far simpler, more reliable system than earlier ones - the EA81 gurus can probably tell you what years/models are best for the distys. I know the 2WD cars had a better advance curve than the 4WD cars, and there were other differences along the model years I would put a simple 2-wire disty on, and eventually a Weber 32/36 DGEV carb (rid yourself of Hitachi carb), you'll get more power, better performance, and if the carb is tuned right, better fuel economy. You can only do this in an emissions-test/check free state. enjoy the car (if you like electronics, fabrication and want to make it a project car for a while - convert it to SPFI - it is difficult, but possible) Good Luck!!

Your ignition switch problem may just be the cylinders in the lock assembly being stiff - get some decent-quality silicone spray (the clear stuff that you can also spray on rubber to protect it) and spray it in the keyhole (be fairly liberal as to the quantity) and work it - use the straw for better control - this works wonders The keylock and ignition switch are seperate assemblies, so you want to be sure to replace (if necessary) the right one. IE the one causing the resistance - which will probably be the keylock assembly, a new one will have to be keyed to match the old one Sounds like you are on the right track, but I would plan on using foam/covers on the seats rather than replacing them as parts for a car that old (on the east coast at least) are hard to find. Be careful with anything you remove, because you might not be able to find an interrior part in better shape!! Attack rust on the interrior when you have the interrior out - that is when its easiest!! (I did that routine on a 1979 MG Midget - my first project car!!) Good Luck!!

I usually take a suspect alternator to a general parts store - they will usually test yours for free - yours does sound suspect - two 12mm bolts to remove (easy) - that will allow you to eliminate the alternator as suspect check you dash grounding too (check voltage with an external voltmeter at the battery car running and off) - a bad ground could cause the voltmeter to read low

don't know, but we bought the car new, and I can remember having that problem for as long as my memory goes .... (I just live with it now) - I notice turning the front wheel back and forth sometimes helps too .... checked the 1985 FSM diagram - they don't seem to share the same shift forks, etc so I don't know, maybe it is just a design coincidence??

I would say probably headgasket, and as it's NA, probably not much more. (unless a piston is dangling out the side) - you REALLY don't know anything until you pull the heads off. However any extra metallic noises are BAD. To be honest, there is a good chance the headgasket was already blown from overheating or something like that if the guy was apathetic towards it. make sure to have the heads trued, and the block checked for warping prior to installing the head gasket. Engines for these cars are easy to find and compairitvely speaking REALLY CHEAP, in fact, you are in luck because you have the most common engine of all of them - an SPFI one had a production run from 1986-1994 with virtually no change to the engine over the entire run - so in a worst case scenario you should be able to find one (or two or more) in a junkyard Yes, I am against Ether too - always have the engine cranking and spray in short bursts Good Luck!

Congrads! getting a junked car/one that has sat for a while to start is a heck of a lot of fun, partially because it is like breathing life back into something that didn't have it - I dunno it's just cool you sure had an easy time with that!! :cool: The smoke will probably go away with time - engine oil may have seeped into the piston chambers while the car sat, or the valve seals were dry and needed oil to get them back to reg size. If I leave my car for a month, and then start it up, it usually smokes for about 2-3 seconds, then stops however it could also be a head gasket, which is bad, but not too bad - check/change coolant and oil ASAP!! some dealerships can make dupes for you using your VIN # if necessary - all the same, you might as well make dupes now anyway to save you the trouble Good Luck!

1. dash lights flicker slightly and humming noise variates in tune with the blinkers on. somewhat normal for these cars - grounding issue in the design - the humm is probably your fuel pump - don't worry about it 2. car will sometimes randomly decide not to start. fuel pump hums and dash warning lights flicker but no other noises. getting a jump seems to help, but so does letting the car sit for 5-10 minutes. bad battery connectors - less than $5 if you replace them may be ignition switch, but battery connectors are cheaper/easier, and on a car that old they probably need to be replaced anyway 3. rear speakers make a scratch 'n pop noise which rises in pitch with engine speed. been doing some rewiring for an amp lately (though not yet installed) so that might be it. only occurs with engine on, not otherwise. the filter capacitor for the radio is missing/broken - most car audio stores should sell them and have proper instructions as to installation - common with aftermarket radios 4. windshield wipers tend to inch and jerk along when set on intermediate. motor/pivots may need lube - i like moly grease 5. Interior/exterior lights dim when brake is applied with engine off. normal (if extreme, battery connector bad) - you are drawing more current, and there is naturally a voltage drop associated with it - we are actually talking about that characteristic in one of my Electrical Engineering classes right now 6. A/C will not work at all (R12 is confirmed full) then randomly decide to do so for a few days...then stop again. could be many things, there is a belt protection system on these cars, the main component of which is a "pulser" which sits on the top of your compressor and detects the compressor rotating against RPMs - if the gap between the compressor/pulser is too big, the system will engage momentairly - it could also be a bad pressure switch, A/C relay, and if it is a panisonic system there are several other inhibitor switches - check fuses 7. (has happened only once) turned key and lights went on as usual then "pop" and everything shut off. waited a second and it started fine, but radio had reset. definately bad battery cable/connector/connection, inspect & replace as necessary - cheap parts 8. (possibly related) idle has an increased tendency to drop to a lumpy 500. turning idle speed screw doesn't seem to help and I already soaked my IAC valve in intake cleaner twice. adjust timing with timing light - 20 degrees BTDC at idle of ~750 rpms (the change in timing will affect the RPM of the engine as well) - connect green test connectors while doing so, and make sure all accessories are off In short; it needs a minor tune-up, don't sweat - I don't think you're talking big bucks or a lot of time except maybe with the A/C. Good Luck!

you mean driver's side for us - my family has owned an '85 since new (I converted it to FI last year, and have done most of the maitnence myself since I was in 5th grade), and I doubt the timing belt went like that, but it is a possibility Supposedly the engine runs for about 5 seconds and dies with a disconnected MAF - I would check the throttle body and all to see if oil was forced into the intake and plumbing - that could cause this sort of problem I would also check the coolant sensor for the computer (right under T-stat and near oil fill tube - green connector) - that can also cause a no-start/hard start The critical electrical/FI components for a start - working Crank Angle Sensor (distribuitor), Working fuel injector, Working computer, Working coil, Working ignition amplifier (ignitor - that transistor below the ignition coil), working fuel pump - coolant sensor is not neccessary, but it is hard to start without it This is in addition to the normal plugs, wires, etc. that all engines have there is a good trouble shooting section in the second part of the EA 82 manual on this site it covers no-start conditions in GREAT detail http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 to make sure the oil is out of your cylinders, I would pull all plugs (note wires) and I would spray WD-40 or equiv into each of the holes (put a good amount in), wait a few minutes, and (with the ignition system disabled) crank the engine for a while, then put it all back together and try!! (don't forget to clean the plugs) Good luck!!

there are only two ratios I know of being made for EA81/82 cars - 3.7:1 and 3.9:1 - I am 99% sure that all EA81's are 3.9:1, and I think all non-turbo EA82's are 3.9:1 - so a 4-speed 4WD into an EA81 car should not be a problem, nor should a DL's 5-speed 4WD, as all DL's (in the US) were NA - however I have not messed with non-US Soobs as for 4WD damage - you will probably be fine as long as you first try the 4WD on a slick surface the diff ratios are also written on the back of the diff, and the diffs are interchangeable, so take the whole shabang out of the DL and put it in the brat - not sure about speedo accuracy afterwards tho BTW - CHANGE THE GEAR OIL!!! API GL-5 75W-90 is OEM spec - there are a zillion threads on zillions of other combinations/preferences as to brands, viscosities, etc. - I stick with OEM and it works fine for me

no - the '84 and '83 turbos do, but the '85 should have good ol' manual rack and pinion (it is possible, but not necessary to add it off an earler model - probably much more trouble than it's worth)

you can get replacement battery connectors at ANY auto parts store - maybe even Wal/K mart - you cut the old ones off, strip the wires ... you can figure out the rest - they come with instructions and are easy to install - had to do that to a friend's Mazda RX-7 recently - they're at least 11 years old, they've had a good life could also be a battery low on charge, however this is less likely

the specs for my car are 20w50 for normal driving, and 10w30 for cool weather - and it SPECIFICALLY denounces the use of 5w30 except under extreme cold conditions. It was put in my engine once by mistake, and I had all sorts of problems to deal with. I use 15w40 API SL Castrol in the summer, Castrol Syntheticblend 10w30 in the winter and I have had NO problems - I have enough miles that if I was doing something wrong I would see a problem too - oil pump gaskets are probably your problem (commom cause) make sure you replace the one on the shaft as well as the mickey mouse gasket mechanics usually miss the shaft gasket. MMO is a VERY good thing to add too, usually the recommended amount is 1/2 a quart, I use it maybe every third oil change. CR-2 is CRAP - don't use it!! BTW - avoid ANYTHING with teflon in it - teflon is BAD for engines!! Says DuPont, who makes the stuff!!

I think there was originally a spec sheet on the wheels page that listed them as being 85-89, but they are not in my 1985 buyer's guide. I have them on my wagon (originally had wagon wheels) - I like them a LOT more than wagon wheels, they never bend, and are a LOT lighter (easier to service). They cost a lot more than $80 when I got them tho. :-\ However, I will say that they were worth the price I paid.

umm ... there is no plastic housing in stock form - your headlights are glass and the bowles are steel with a chrome coating - so no problems there - the only plastic piece is the retainer for the bulb itself! you will DEFINATELY need to run a completely seperate wiring harness/relays for the headlights, as your stock one will go up in smoke with that setup!!

Your power problems sound like you need to tune your engine before you start modding - replace the O2 sensor, check plugs, wire, cap, rotor as well as timing - should be 20-degrees before top dead center at idle - I have been able to hold 75 with 1,500-2,000lbs of weight in my car (even when it was carbed), and I can still hold at least 55 on a 6% incline. As it was originally carbed, it has a 9:1 compression ratio, not the normal SPFI 9.5:1 which you already have stock - bottom line - there should be more power there than you are getting, even in stock form. The gear chatter in 1st is common in these cars (you really can't downshift into 1st unless you are almost stopped), if you haven't done so already, change your gear oil in the transaxle with synthetic 75w90 - I used Mobil 1 - made a world of difference. Are you sure it is AWD - in 93' they only made a pushbutton 4WD for these cars (Loyale). Having it in 4WD all the time would cause the gears/tires/driveline to bind, give you crappy power, mileage, and super-fast tire wear.

I use the Sylvania high brightness - whatever the actual name is of the bulb they make. It seems like I never have to replace them (over 4 years with them so far... and I drive with them on - no noticible fade either) and they have a reasonable low beam, and a REALLY bright high beam, so in town I am not blinding anybody, but if I am driving in the country I get to see everthing ahead of me, plus a fair amount on the sides (like deer). Best of all, there is NO BLUE TINT to them. They are pretty cheap too. Blue is actually a very irritating color to the eye, particularly on the wavelengths of the cheezy aftermarket blue bulbs (and the Xenon lamps newer cars have). It causes glare issues, and many other issues both for you and other drivers - remember RED is the color used on most tinted flashlights because it does not cost you your night vision!! Yellow has a closer wavelength to red, so a yellower bulb would be kinder to your eyes than a bluer bulb. I actually read in the newspaper recently that the DOT is looking at revising required headlight specs because of the glare issues with blue bulbs, as they are disorienting to other drivers (not a good thing at night), not to mention annoying. Ditto on the wattage issue, fried wiring harnesses are not fun to mess with!! Experience an MG, and you will know what I am talking about!!! Headlight alignment is also critical - and for some reason, I have had difficulty getting a shop to align my headlights correctly - I did a rough alignment in the driveway, and had a shop check it - and it was right!! Mainly my local shops try to cross the beams really close to the front of the car (like 5 feet) for some reason instead of the required ~25 feet in front of the car; this causes obvious issues Loyales/GL's also have glass/chrome headlights which can be washed and cleaned internally - this would be a VERY good thing to do, and offers a definite improvement. Just make sure they are COMPLETELY dry inside before you install your headlight. using something like Windex helps too Whatever your choice, consiter yourself and other drivers in your decision, as your safety depends on your ability to see at night as well as theirs.

I have not had the pleasure of running a Subaru LSD, but I have played with a posi-trac diff before (yes they are VERY different), and I can say you MUST add some sort of additive or you will get chatter. I think some members have added simple posi-trac like additives, some gear oil come with additives in them already and say that they can specifically be used in locking rear diffs (I think Mobil 1 75w90 is like that). Anyway, if you have just strait gear oil, that is probably your problem. I doubt that it is critical that you run Subaru OEM lubricant, but it is probably your safest option. You obviously need to run something special. A rear CV could theoretically cause a problem like that too if there is too much free play or resistance in it - fix it and be done with it, because one of the sides to owning a FT4WD car is that you must take care of all four wheels, because neglecting anything can cause tranny issues.

I usually use anti-seize on the spark plug threads for install - makes life at least a little easier - I would also try hand tightening the plug first (if it is on the passenger side that is easy to do) try that and a different socket before you think Helicoil - and even if you do have to helicoil, they aren't that hard to install if the plug is on the passenger side - I speak from expierence there (no I did not strip the plug hole out) BTW - use a name brand one IE HELICOIL - if not it is liable to shoot the spark plug out of the cylinder - I have expierence there too I actually have had the same problem with the socket hitting the casting, however I got rid of the one that had that problem. (it was a cheapie anyway)

my cruise uses a single knob on the turn signal assy, rotate forward to turn on/accelerate, push button to set/coast, pull back to turn off - I think EA81's had a different cruise system than EA82's (even dealer add-on) I have examined the switch on my car, and it is obviously not the cause of the cruise control computer's failure - I disconnected the actuator just in case the computer shorts out and tries to cause a major problem

FINALLY, I am not alone in my desire to have a good EGR system!! I have never had my EGR system get dirty enough one the cylinder block side to need cleaning, but to get the EGR tube off properly involves removing the intake manifold, after that you should be able to ram a copper wire down the hole in the head to break carbon loose on the walls (be weary of the valve below), and the passageways to the EGR valve itself are VERY easy to clean with the manifold off. I would leave the throttle body on myself (one less gasket to replace). make sure you purge your coolant system well

that's a big question - automatic transmissions are almost really something that a shop must service for the internals due to the precision nature (the exception being the govenor on the 3-speed trannies, and the modulator valve, used for shifts which is mounted externally on the tranny casing), basically the automatic transmission works with a torque converter as a clutch between the engine and tranmission and it has two sets of fins immersed in tranmission fluid, one is driven by the engine and the other set of blades is impelled by the fluid. After that planetary gears locked/unlocked by shifting bands/clutches are used to achieve a specific gear ratio by locking and unlocking the planetary gears - it is a much more complicated design than a manual tranmission, and harder to describe as a result from the service side, the fluid and filter MUST be changed regularly, as it is much more suceptable to deterioration than fluid in a manual gearbox, due to the extreme thermal stress on it bad fluid can RUIN a tranny very quickly if you really want to find out how your particular one works, purchasing a factory service manual (ebay is a good source) for your car is the best way to find out. Otherwise a google search may yield many results for general information reguarding how they work

I agree with most everything people have said - my soob has been totalled 2 or 3 times (I can't remember) I got about 80% of the car's value each time (with a little negotiation) I don't know how hard it is to repair an 84 as it has a different body than the 85, but the bodywork should not be too difficult if you do it yourself, and you could actually make money - ARGUE with the adjuster - point out that you want a car just a reliable and with comperable performance - find an 84 in better condition than yours was in for sale, and make that your target price (if they offer you less) - argue that you would need that much and no less to replace it (then use the money for repairs) if only the bumpers are damaged - easy repair - if the actually body is damaged, it gets difficult - I would still do the repairs if you car is rust-free, as those are hard to find you have options