85Sub4WD

As no one has responded, I guess this is a rare/individual case of failure - Thanks!! Now to fix the system!!

I converted from the dreaded Hitachi carb to SPFI (as many will tell you it is not really a crazy mod, so much as a needed one for a carbed car) I did it before Snowman wrote the manual for it too, and with far less literature than he presents, so I ran into a few interesting obsticles. One thing great about running SPFI on a carbed block is that the lower compression ratio on the carbed engine lets me run regular unleaded without a problem. I will admit that I have planned a few mods (not too crazy, mainly swapping parts off of other soobs for better performance) Right now my time very limited, and what time I have is spent is holding the thing together, I am in school and rely a LOT on it for transportation I am looking for a 4WD XT6/RX in the JY right now for a rear end because my trailing arms are shot, and I want a rear sway bar - Hal did a clear-out of a lot of his older stuff and crushed an XT6 without telling me about it He also junked TWO good XT6 engines :( I am going to need it to get me from Raleigh to Charlotte a lot in the next couple months because I am transferring from NCSU to UNC-Charlotte. ( I don't mind carolina blue either ) So, I have done stuff like fix the A/C, which had been broken for about 7 years. Next on my list is cruise control. I am starting school soon (leaving the 18th) and I am working until the 17th, which leaves me just weekends to pack/prepare for fall semester, so I am a bit busy now, but believe me, I wish I could help, if for no other reason than I want to play with a turbo don't be intimidated by the car, one reason I love Subaru is because they are so EASY to work on, replacing the ECU on that car is a cakewalk, just don't force anything, make sure you disconnect your battery first and reconnect it last, and you should not have a problem (disconnecting the battery is so important because you can fry the old and the new ECU if you don't, not to mention that you must have the bolts that hold the ECU in TIGHT for proper grounding - improper ECU body grounding can also fry it) I speak from expierence there. Actually the proceedure is a lot less complicated than is sounds. Here'e the link to a FSM (for an 89 - which uses the same turbo system as the 87) BTW - it is not complete, and one of the missing sections involves info about the turbo system, but you should hopefully be able to glean some info from it (look under EA82) http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 Good Luck!!

I just fixed my a/c - I actually did not use R134a, but an alternative refrigerant called Enviro-Safe http://www.btt.org/ES.html - no funky license required, and it works a LOT better than R134a - it is actually cheaper right now, but be sure to read ALL instructions, there are some specific handeling procceedures that MUST be followed - you still have to swap fittings a good thing to do also is replace ALL your O-rings with nitrile ones - (CHEAP at autozone) make sure to lube them prior to install and I used the good ol' fashoned mineral oil, which is a better lubricant than ester, and what your system was designed for pulling a good vacuum in the system before adding refrigerant is CRITICAL to system performance - maybe pay a shop to do that you should also replace your reciever/dryer if you haven't already - it is supposed to absorb any moisture in the system, and gets saturated if the system is open for any length of time I have had the system running for over 2 weeks now with NO problems. Last time, I tried R134a and it lasted 3 days!

Several points to raise - RUST - major issue on these cars, make sure there is as little as possible - if there is a lot in the rocker panels, forget it bent suspension stuff is BAD - it takes a body shop to unbend suspension components - and rarely are they able to get them right - have it checked for alignment, if it is out of alignment, and is not correctable, forget it because you will spend a LOT on tires what tranny is in it? the three speed automatic trannies are at least potientially problematic (fluid MUST be clean), the manuals are extremely good the idle is not something to worry about at present - it is probably due to bad gas, and if not, it is very adjustable the T-belts, engine oil, tranny fluid (rear diff?) and all other fluids (coolant) will need to be changed as the car has been sitting for it to be consitered reliable I would be very careful with a car that has been sitting for more than a year to two years - stuff happens to cars when they sit, and it usually takes a LOT of work to get them right again

sure - I have actually expierenced no difference in my ability to read codes with any connectors connected/unconnected HOWEVER the "proper" way to do it (if I recall correctally) is to plug the two green connectors together located near your winshield wiper motor (under the hood) - I think this can be done with the ignition on or off - then see what you get out of the computer (if it is anything different) - there is a specific (and still confusing) proceedure in the FSM (n the previous link) about the codes reading process there is an entire T-shooting table on "no start" conditions too - the cruise control problem is the only one not on it - I have found that generally the connectors only need to be connected if you have a minor problem - a more major problem (no start) should bring a trouble code reguardless of the condition of the green connectors btw there is also a set of clear connectors (near the green ones) - they are used for clearing memory (so you don't have to pull a cable off the battery) - I think they also have some part in higher-level memory codes, but that is also vaguely explained in the FSM - those proceedures require the engine to be running anyway btw - did the gas shoot out of the fuel filter? there is supposed to be ~40 psi behind it - you should have gotten a face full - if you didn't, I would suspect your fuel filter/pump/tank pickup if you did not get any gas out of the injector, and your computer tells you all's fine, then you know it is either the T-belt, CAS, injector, computer, or fuel pressure regulator there are inspection plugs on the T-belt casing - there is detailed info about it in the FSM Good Luck!! GLCraigGT Good point about T-belts - I have started an engine with the air intake boot off, and with the MAF totally disconnected; it should at least fire, possibly start, but it won't run for any length of time ~5 sec & really rough!!

eek - I had a shop do that, try to cover it up with a knock-off helicoil - wasn't pretty - worst case scenario is to helicoil all four cylinders - and that is not the end of the world - I agree with fan clutch possibility - if you have A/C - the electric fan is NOT enough to cool your engine if it is over 90 degrees F outside, my fan clutch IS bad (next JY trip!!), and my temp gague acts the same way as yours (I don't let it get higher than 3/4) if the temp is at/over 90 and I am running A/C, acts normal w/ no A/C double check - 185 T-stat right?? anyway, the HG IS a possibility if you are making a lot of smoke - best wishes & good luck

Hey Mentis - you are on my doorstep!! Anyway - I have a number of parts, all nonturbo so I can't help there http://www.halspartsandservice.com is who I have used for parts in the past, but they have changed management and cleaned out a lot of stuff so it is hit-or miss wheter you can get anything from them, but they are usually VERY reasonable about the pricing. the computer is easy to replace - takes a 10 mil socket wrench and a phillips head screwdriver remove the driverside kickpanel (using screwdriver) and vola, you see the computer mounted to the bottom of the steering column disconnect the negative battery cable YOU MUST DO THIS after that, remove the three bolts holding the computer in place, remove the old computer, chuck it, and plug the new one in - installation is the reverse of removal as Calebz said, any 87-90 turbo computer will work on your car any TBI/SPFI computer will work on any TBI/SPFI car any 85-86 computer should work on any 85-86 car (turbo or mpfi) any 87-later MPFI computers should be interchangeable OK - that is all the different intercompatibilites I can think of Ridgewood Phillips 66 in Raleigh is OK for service, but not spectacular, Southern States Subaru caught my car on fire - there is a really good foreign service place on Durant Road - I think it is on the eastern side of US 1 - the guy will work on anything, I have seen Lotuses and a Delorean in his garage - he is good, my high school Calc teacher uses him for her Subaru work I do all my car's maitnence myself limits who I have to blame for when the car breaks

Ask and ye shall recieve check here under EA82 (that's your engine) SPFI=TBI http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 this is an FSM (Factory Service Manual) for the 1989 model year, but yours should be almost identical it has COMPLETE troubleshooting details, testing proceedures for all components, and some performance specs if you don't already have one, buy a multimeter at Wal-Mart - the best $15 you ever spent! I think FI info is in the second part of note, if you have a cruise control system, that can also cause probems - see my other post http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40789 I will go ahead and put down some basics - you computer is located above your driver side kickpanel - remove the kickpanel (easy) and look at it - there is a small window with an LED on it - turn your ignition to the "ON" position and watch the LED - it should give 4 or 5 quick flashes, then trouble codes the specifics on how to interpert the trouble codes are in the FSM a (slightly) educated guess is that your crank angle sensor (IE distribuitor) has issues - your computer must be getting a signal that the engine is turning over before it will shoot fuel into the engine one thing to be aware of is that you usually cannot see the fuel come out of the fuel injector (due to how fine a stream and how fast it comes out) - it is easier to smell it your air flow meter MUST be connected/working for the engine to start (in some cases or run for any length of time in others) Good Luck!!

RELAXX!!! No you do not want to replace your engine *YET* I have had a similar (though it did not become as severe) a problem. There is an oil seal on the SHAFT of the oil pump - if THAT goes bad, it generates many of the problems that you describe. It WOULD release oil UNDER PRESSURE because it is one of the components that is directly exposed to oil pressure - it is VERY easy to overlook, and most shops WILL miss it. (I know if you have to order the gasket seperately) IF they did not properly install/torque it, that could cause a problem too. A BIG ISSUE is whether they were using genuine Subaru parts - they should, cheap knock-offs that many aftermarket stores sell use inferior quality components. I have had to replace many gaskets twice as a result. A faulty PCV valve is also a likely candidate, but for reasons other than what I saw in the aforementioned posts - if one gets plugged or is not relieving pressure at a proper rate, it will cause a buildup of crancase pressure, and shoot oil out of ANY part of the engine it can, namely the camshaft seals. There is an issue on SPFI cars of dumping oil into the intake on inclined right hand turns, but that does not apply here. TAKE IT TO A DIFFERENT SHOP FOR A SECOND OPINION competent mechanics are hard enough to find - and Subarus, while reliable and very serviceable cars (take that ford, chrystler, GM, and volvo), do tend to have several mechanical quirks, that only a mechanic that has Subaru expierence can solve - this does not always mean the dealership - usually oil leaks are easy to spot and fix for a mechanic expierenced with Subarus

OK - my dealer installed cruise contol system on my subaru (the one in my signature) failed, immobilizing my car!!! (the wire from the negative side of my coil shorted to groundvia faulty control unit, resulting in NO SPARK!!) this happened at rush hour at a busy intersection - IE BAD TIMING!! - has ANYONE had their dealer install cruise system control module fail like this??? I realize also that it was designed in the "early years" of cruise control, and that I should expect stuff like this - IE bugs. If this seems to be an isolated incident with the system, I will repair it (replace the control module). I will say I/my family got over 20 years of service out of it - so they can't be that buggy (I think/hope!). This is also an FYI, that if you DO encounter a no spark condition, and have found nothing wrong, disconnect the yellow wire with the half-circle connector from the ignition coil, and see if that solves your problem.

yes, I am reviving this old thread, but I need info has anyone done the conversion with the P7157 alt that has A/C yet? My A/C uses the big Hitachi compressor that mounts inside the bracket, so theoretically I should not have a clearence problem (SPFI, so intake is not an issue), but I can't afford to spend the money to buy the alt and be wrong. I could also use the measurements of the alternator's dimensions to figure out i if it will fit if anyone has them. Any info about it period would be very much appreciated. Thanks

get a Factory Service Manual (FSM) - they are well worth the $ if you get one off ebay - over the past three months I have seen manuals for all 80's Subarus appear - keep an eye out, one will show up - usually they go for ~$50 for the set

they guy at the parts store has NO IDEA what he was taking about - my car took about 2 months to get to Florida from Japan (my parents bought it new in 1985, so I know the date of purchase and the date of manufacture as it is stamped on the driver's side door pillar) VIN 4 and 5 is 2WD vs. 4WD - I don't know which is which - but tell them whatever you feel like, because the parts are pretty much the same your car IS a 1985 - the guy at the parts store just has no idea what he was doing - that is unfortunately quite common :-\ just tell them it is an '84 to make your life easier - the two cars are almost identical

you need to add a filter capacitor for the coil to eliminate RF interference - they are common and inexpensive - basically, you are picking up the sound of your engine firing because the is inadiquate isolation of th coil/related components - better grounding helps too #5 - happens to me too, with a new battery - standard voltage drop due to battery load - would not worry about it at all #7 - I agree with hooziewhatsit that it is dirty battery terminals - cleaning may also help #2 and #5 Good Luck!!

if you haven't found it already - http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 the manual is not complete for turbo cars, but the CAS system is identical for 87+ MPFI turbo and non-turbo - in fact my current CAS is off a turbo car - this should help your troubleshooting because it covers how to test the CAS unless you KNOW the computer is good, I would not rule it out either - I had two bad ones that would display an error code for the CAS, when it was really working fine, and not give me an ignition pulse Good Luck!!!

any exhaust leaks before the O2 sensor (immediately after the turbo) will cause a funky idle pattern - it causes the O2 sensor to get funky readings and therefore it causes the ECU to screw around with the engine's fuel/air mixture - check for exhaust leaks using the method of your choice, and if you find any, they are probably what is causing your problem

not to hijack the thread or anything, but how many people are still using OEM foglights (dealer option at least for 80's cars) - I recently got a NOS set, and I am planning on installing them as daytime running lights - my car is pretty much entirely street, so breaking glass won't be a problem for me (it had them for 16 years with no problem, then it was front-ended and they were destroyed)

OK, when you describe the driveability probs, I think carb rebuild, but consitering the shock, I would also check the distributor as it is the only other culperit - save the exhaust system, but I found with carbed cars that exhaust system holes are not much of a problem (no O2 sensor to confuse); except for loudness (then again I never busted my Y-pipe, but I have run with it disconnected from the rest of the exhaust system) - ticking makes me think oil pump seals - may be time for replacing those anyway.

not that I know of - I KNOW there is no connection on the non-turbo cars, and I am 99% certain that there is not a mechanical connection on the turbo cars - Subarus simply use an inhibitor switch to prevent starting while in gear - no sepecial interlocks on the tranny like ford and GM have - more reliable design because of its simplicity I would go to a dealer, and give him your VIN and ask for a key - should not cost much, but it would be a "factory" key almost exactally like the one that came with it originally depending on how bold you are feeling, WD40 or graphite lubricant in the switch may also be a good idea this is a problem specifically with the lock cylinder, and not in any way electrical, as the problem is pulling the key out of the switch

Here is part of an FSM for the 1989 MY http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 look under EA82 use the specs for the engine internal work, no you don't have FI, but head bolt loostening and tightening proceedure is still the same, as it has the same basic engine

don't condemn the suspension to failure yet - inside tire wear is common when the "tow-in" is too great (meaning your front tires are pointing in towards each other) - that is easily adjustable by screwing in/out the tie rod ends (they are designed to be adjustable) - an alignment shop would be able to tell you by how much and adjust it to the proper position if you still are having problems, an alignment shop would be able to diagnose the cause (they have expensive equipment that can look at the whole geometry of your car)

that little circuit controlls your fuel pump - it's kinda important - Mitsubishi does not just make cars, but electronics too, so they designed/manufactured parts of the car

it has been at while since I did it, but I think the way I did it was to rock the trim gently up and down, and "walk" it out - I can't remember for sure how I did it, I just remember that I did (I currently have that fender on my car, and I pulled the trim off first in the JY, and it is intact in my garage (somewhere)) - I'd at least give it a try

what year car is it? follow the proceedure for reading codes, if nothing happens, the ECU is toast the best help I can give you for 87+ cars is here: http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 however it is not complete on the info for turbo cars

that is a pain - to get to it on my car, I had to remove the entire air filter assembly (all the vacuum hoses), so I had the naked carb staring back at me - the choke is on the same side as the idle speed adjustment screw - there is a plastic body with a wire coming out of it secured by some combination of sheetmetal screws and pop-rivets - loostend that so that you can rotate the plastic assembly and you will see the choke open/close depending on which way you move it - I usually adjusted mine on am moderate day to be slightly open (enough so that a little air will flow through) - once again, trial and error are involved, and the fact that you have to remove and install the air filter assembly each time does not make it pleasent also remember that you must pump the accelerator peddle on cold days 3 times before starting (for me it was ONLY for the first start of the day) - hard starting in the summer is usually a choke issue otherwise given your conditions, I would guess that somehow moisture entered your fuel system - but that is merely a guess - at any rate, good luck at the show!!