85Sub4WD

a shorter spring is not stiffer than the spring beforehand the mathamatical formula for the potiential energy a spring uses a spring constant (k) (Newtons per meter), energy (U) (in Joules) and distance compressed (x) (in meters) given that, the formula is: U=(1/2)*k*x^2 as you can see, the length of the spring is irrevalent to the energy absorbed by it - you can play around with the equation to your heart's delight - I am sure it would be quicker than for me to explain it all to you!! I just finished a physics course on it!!! Simple Harmonic Motion rocks!!! Good Luck!!

It sounds like you need a complete reseal - this manual will help for the engine specs - the 1988 and 1989 are almost identical http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 It sounds like your engine may very well have been overheated - all the symptoms you give are indicative of that - oil seals break in large numbers when an engine is cooked, because the rubber breaks down thermally - pistons can also expand to the point where they rub cylinder walls, causing abnormal wear Just out of curiosity - is it possible it could be as simple as a bad PCV valve??? a clogged PCV valve would potientially cause major oil leakage - while not the most likely, it is the cheapest possibility - OEM's are best

They didn't come with LSD's unless it was an XT6, then maybe. - if in doubt, it is printed in BIG letters on the tag on the back of the diff as for fluids - antifreeze should be in a 50/50 mix (ethylene glycol & water) - engine oil should be 10w30 or 15w40, and gear oil is spec'd for 75w90, you will need a special LSD additive for the rear diff - power steering fluid is Dexron II

My car originally had a Hitachi carb, I CONVERTED it to SPFI (SPFI did not come out until 1986) - I measured SPFI AND Turbo cars (couldn't find any MPFI N/A in the JY), they have the same plumbing (here). The SPFI fuel pressures are around 40psi, turbos are 50-60psi, maybe more if the fuel filter clogs.

that is simply not so on american versions then - or I was not clear enough as to my setup, because I researched the differences carefully before I made the change, and have since put 5k MILES on the car without problems. I did that with my carb feed tube, and used that as my EFI feed tube, I used the carb return tube as my EFI return tube - it is narrower than on the FI version, but not by enough to cause a performance problem the EVAP tube remined the same yes, it does make for complicated hose routing, but it WORKS the highest pressures that the fuel line will expierence will be at idle anyway, as much of the fuel is just cycling back into the tank, the line pressures are the highest then (electric pumps do not vary their volume so the fuel pressure regulartor compensates)

I never replaced the metal lines when I converted my car to fuel injection, and I have had no problems - yes, the fuel return line is smaller, but that seems to have made no difference in performance - I am not running rich or anything - and I have compared the thickness of the metal pipes on turbo, FI, and carbed cars - they are all the same - so you are not going to burst anything however, you HAVE to replace ALL rubber fuel lines with ones that are rated for fuel injection fuel pressures - your current ones are designed for about 10 psi - you will be going to 60-70psi

Congrads, you scored a nice car. Can't help you with the lift info - but I have the service manual to your car, so I can help you with a variety of other things. I am really surprized that you found one in NC. If the headlamps aren't bulb problems, you have a bad relay or switch - my vote is relay - it is located above the driver's side kickpanel. the 5-speed D/R tranny is REALLY nice, I have it in my car, and love it - you also have a rear LSD!! (limited slip differential) - GREAT for offroad, or other high-performance desires you will probably solve 90% of your problems by doing a front reseal - replace all cam, crank, and oil pump seals - all are very easy when you get the timing belts off - your "lifters" are hydraulic lash adjusters, which will make a LOT of noise if they loose oil pressure - they are probably fine, if not, run some Marvel Mystery Oil through them, and they should be fine Good Luck, and if you need help, please shout! (but search first) BTW - what year is the XT?? 87's and later have a spyder intake manifold, which can be installed on your RX as a performance boost (however you can no longer put the spare tire under the hood)

I vote alternator - and if it is what is blowing headlamps, it will soon blow your battery and many other important devices - I had one alternator spike to near 18 volts when it failed, causing an electrical overload - it killed my battery eventually

the TSB/fault is for the SPFI EA82 engine's PCV system - I have a copy of the TSB, and am having the problem on my car now (downhill rt turns) - as his is an carbed EA81 car, it should not have the PCV system problem - either faulty PCV valve/filter - Someone has it on his/her webspace, it would be nice if they would post the link here - I did a search a while back and found it then - I will try to find it again and post the link .... Ahh, here is the thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=712&highlight=PCV

I had to relube mine about a year ago, I used black silicone grease with moly in it - something that Mobil makes/made - says Mobil CMP on top - has worked much better, but not perfectly, may get new speedo cable anyway

Me thinks vacuum leak maybe?? did you reset your computer after installing the O2 sensor (pull battery cable off and wait five minutes)?? another possibility is a valve/lifter, but usually those cause a LOT of noise as yours is an 89, you do not have a normal distribuitor, but a Crank Angle sensor - basically it uses a light and perforated wheel to tell the computer where the engine is in its cycle - no advance mechanism, the computer does that - it either works, or it doesn't (no start condition), so that is not your problem

the EA82 turbo transmissions (except the 3-speed) are 25 spline - you need that to connect an EA trans to EJ axle EJ tranny won't bolt-up to an EA engine

not too bad - I just remember a lot of penatranting oil, whacking, and wiggleing - you have to disconnect the front brake lines too - I think it took me an afternoon - mine were rusted pretty bad too Good Luck!!

SPFI (1989 FSM) - 9.5:1 (domed - so I'm told) Carb/MPFI N/A (1985 FSM) - 9.0:1 Turbo (both) - 7.7:1 MPFI turbo intake will NOT bolt to carb heads - either need to run carb manifold or swap heads

well put - the subarus pre-85 and XT came with a "Pop-up" sunroof - it only tilted - a good friend of mine had one - from the factory - soob convertable coups were custom (like in 83/84) the high-end Imprezas ARE made in Japan Legacys are US/Canada I do not know of any Subaru plants in Mexico, and it is part of North America their automotive electronics are CRAPPY - HAVE YOU EVER WORKED ON A GERMAN CAR????????? - Germany was state-of-the-art 20+ years ago, mainly because of the MACHINING work done on things like Hi-Fi equipment - but I have not seen ANYTHING manufactured since then that is particularly noteworthy or exceptional and the Japanese don't know how to make electronics? My family has owned the same Subaru for 20 years - we have beaten the crap out of it - in that time we have gone through at least four other cars, due to some form of catastrophic failure - I don't idolize my car, but I find that it fulfills my needs amply, and 20 years AFTER it was manufactured - I do not see much purposeful nor sophisticated criticism in this thread - mainly what I see is disgruntled people making a pointless arguement as to "my car's better than yours" - most of which is baseless scientifically, and otherwise - the thousands who have traveled well over 200k in these cars are not being represented I have my expierence, and many others who I come in contact with, most of whom have a minimum of thirty years of expierence under the hood: Subarus are easier to work on, cheaper to maintain, and more reliable than their counterpart German cars - period. ANY statistics will back that up. Consumer Reports or not. German cars have more luxuries and a more popular appeal because they are expensive - German engineering was great 20+ years ago, but since then, it has been unremarkable

It has hydraulic lifters - all EA81 engines post 1985 have hydraulic lifters (assuming your engine is orig)

Very good point - I too am now wondering about front end clearence as he was talking about how a low nose would not be a problem???? I was actually thinking about them myself to improve rear stability (stiffer) - but if they were to boost my back end up that far I would have to reconsiter it - I am not interested in lifting my ride (for now at least)

I know newer gen engines have been fitted into brats before - whether or not you can fit the H6 and do twin turbos is - as yet - undiscovered territory - whether or not you CAN do it, you might as well try - the H6 alone would be a big upgrade

No the 2.2L engine up to/through 95 is one animal (non-interference head), the one after that is different (interference head) - if you don't believe me look here http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 - the only difference between turbo and N/A are the pistons used - EJ blocks are all very similar - they just have different sized holes in them for the cylinders for different displacements!! - the heads are where the real differences lie - you are upgrading your impreza by turboing it and getting more power, but you are also getting a non-interference design, so if you break a timing belt, you just put another in it - that is probably where you are increasing your reliability the most The 2.5L engine is the one which changed in the said way - big difference that said, if you want more power, you can probably fit any EJ series engine under your hood - most have very similar/same external physical dimensions

GL's from 1980-1984 to be precise - 1985 was OHC for everything but the brat and hatchback EA81's are completely interchangeable 80-87 with several differences: 80-82 use smaller valves 1980 through 1984 cars with a manual transmission have solid lifters (require a valve adjustment every 15k) 1984 automatic transmission and all later EA81 cars have hydraulic lifters, which never require adjustment there may be more .... I am not an EA81 guru, though I have worked on them a little - I am most familiar with EA82's just EA82 cars - and certain ones at that - only ones with a Manual transmission and turbo, or the four speed automatic

Fuji Heavy Industries - Subaru's Parent Company Well, at least you tried - I am not surprized given how things tend to go over here ..... I think you would have had better luck sending it to Japan - you need to find some sort of customer feedback forumn or something .... I don't know .... all I can say is that it is Subaru's loss ....

Glad to see a fellow board member bought it - I was going to post asking about it if noone claimed it - I like to see the older soobs being saved - I hope to (someday) own a gen 1 4WD or a 360 - any bodystyle (preferably the Custom (wagon)) - these cars are very overlooked in classic car history, especially consitering what they grew into - will be a while though before I have time, space, or money to do keep one tho - I just try to keep an eye out anyway, in case I can save one from the crusher BTW - VERY neat forum!!

same here, it was a real B*&%# to get at - and to beat it all, I stripped the threads PULLING IT OUT fixed it all in the end tho

read my edited post

the flywheel the rubber piece covers it to keep crap like wrenches out if someone drops one, among other stuff - it is also the hole used to set timing on the engine - TDC and all other markings are on it, and you point a timing light at it to make adjustments