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85Sub4WD

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Everything posted by 85Sub4WD

  1. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7970041980&category=33643 here is an emblem on Ebay - the 1985 cars had the black background, later models (I think 87-later????) do not I'll keep looking....
  2. look on Ebay - they appear every now and then - decent prices too if you contact the persons in charge of this site (official Subaru site) they can direct you in the correct direction, though they do not offer any info online for your car http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/index.jsp
  3. given the beautiful variety of codes that the computer is spitting out at you, I think that there is a good chance that it is defective itself - a CAS error should/usually results in a "no start" condition - (if you are in a JY, pick up a spare anyway, as they are VERY expensive new or aftermarket - just grab the whole disty body, rotor and cap) - a failing sensor could theoretically cause sporatic engine failures/power loss - at any rate you would find this link useful: http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 the manual is for a 1989 - but most all SPFI systems are identical (save '86 MY) I would double check the specified sensors with a multimeter following the procedures in the manual before I replace anything - I have had a (two) bad computer(s) throw false codes pointing to sensors when it was the real problem the sensor is actually the two-wire one below the thermostat housing (closest to the radiator) - the one-wire one is for the dash gague (know from conversion) - not an EASY job, because of where it is tucked, but not too hard either - be sure to bleed the cooling system after replacing it!!! what do you mean haywire? surging? stalling? backfireing?
  4. easy - with the engine off - remove the spare tire, look on the bellhousing between the engine/transmission - I don't know how it is marked for automatic cars, but manuals have degree markings on the flywheel, turn your engine over by hand until you come to the proper one (for 20-degrees before top dead center) - mark with chalk or whiteout the line for that mark - set up the timing light as instructed, placing sensor on the wire for cylinder #1 - now plug in your test connectors (two green connectors near winshield wiper motor under the hood) and start the car - point the light at the flywheel, and adjust the distributor until you have the pointer for the flywheel lined up with the mark for 20-degrees BTDC - I think all that is covered here: http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 look under EA82 - it should cover adjusting timing and pulling codes from the ECU, your car is SPFI - though it is a different year, all SPFI systems are virtually identical, so the info should be correct for your car Good Luck!
  5. SPFI cars, like yours (it's a Loyale) have only one injector in the throttle body. MPFI cars (1985 GL-10, XT's, and all turbo cars) have one injector per cylinder. They also have a special intake manifold and heads that differ from carb/SPFI cars. MPFI N/A is a better than SPFI for performace consiterations (better air flow - and about 7 more HP for late model MPFI N/A (on XT-4) vs Loyale SPFI), but SPFI is probably better for reliability, as it is a simpler system - parts are also MUCH easier to find for SPFI cars.
  6. time to pull the codes from the computer - if it is really running rough, it should have them BTW - are your spark plug wires on correctly? and the condition of all your plugs, wires, cap, rotor are OK? it sounds like you really just need to set the timing on it.
  7. Well, there are some distinctly Subaru things about it - like no metal frame for the side windows, and the doorhandles are very Subaru By the same token, the front seatbelts are almost identical to the 510 (lap and sholder belts can be seperated), and the "Fasten Seat Belts" light is EXACTALLY like the 510 - both Nissan and Subaru probably used the same suppliers I'm surprized it is at 2k too - wish I could buy it, but I would be far too tempted to swap the motor for a 1600, and mod it ....
  8. OK, first you get the holes in your exhaust fixed - instant fail you use OEM/decent aftermarket parts so your components are doing what they should do make sure your carb is in good shape - CRITICAL make sure your plugs/cap/rotor is in good shape - CRITICAL you cross your fingers - these cars have emissions system problems, so it is hard to say whether it will pass the first time or not I have had good luck running CRC's Guarenteed to Pass (G2P) - got it at Pep Boys, super-cleaner for exhaust - running premium helps too...
  9. I am about 90% sure that is incorrect - I have never heard of a carbed car not having a PCV valve or a breather of some sort - check over it carefully - the extrermely high vacuum in the crankcase indicates a PVC valve stuck open
  10. I am thinking the loudness could be related to the exhaust system gaskets - but it could be other things too. Yes, you will probably need to set timing, and a timing light would be useful for that. After that, I would check for a vacuum leak. Good Luck!
  11. I don't know where they are located specifically for your car, but if you use a multimeter then you should be able to check them with that (check resistance - there should be very little) - they may look good, but really be broken. Also double check fuses.
  12. it should be called the PCV filter or crankcase filter - it filters air for your crankcase - most auto stores should have it or something similar
  13. you probably just have a blip in the computer - pull the battery cable off (engine off) wait 10 minutes, and put it back on the door ajar problem sounds like a bad ground/switch to me - check them with a multimeter and you should be golden! Good Luck!
  14. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=31805 The short version - it ain't worth it
  15. If carbed I'd say it was the fuel pump/filter - I had mine do "cutouts" where I would be driving along, the engine would stop firing, then it would magically come back - ended up being a bad fuel pump - I would imagine that a FI car could give similar symptoms if the fuel system was obstructed in some way. The fact that easy use of the throttle helps the problem makes me think this is very likely. Regardless, if it hasn't had the fuel filter replaced recently, I would do so. I don't know about the smell - perhaps the fuel pump relay has issues??
  16. I talked to a friend of mine this past weekend about that very subject - he worked for over 30 years at Mobil Oil and still does consulting work for them (now retired) Apparently it was a problem in the 70's to mix the early synthetics and conventional oils because there were a lot of esters in the synthetic oils, that would gell into a big ball of goo in the oil pan. - so it was true 30 years ago that you could not mix natural and synthetic oils.... With today's newer synthetics, that is not an issue as there are not much esters in them, in fact I use Castrol SyntheticBlend for my oil, have done so for over 20k, and had no ill affects. Mixing between brands should not be a problem, but you are going to deal with the effects of cheap oil if you put cheap oil in (ie gelling). Mixing viscosities should not be a problem either - I do it frequently when topping off, and have had no ill effects.
  17. Sounds like the electrical part of the ignition switch has died - double-check that power is actually going through it - also check the fusible links - they may look OK, but really be fried - I would check all relays too, just to be sure Good Luck!
  18. The best mod you can do is to swap a 5-speed dual range 4WD into it - it should go just about as well as the brat in 4WD because the tires are the same (or very close spec) for both cars, and the wheelbase is very close - you have to rev the loyale up a bit more than the brat because it has a different engine (Loyale - EA82 - 1.8L OHC; Brat - EA81 - 1.8L OHV) the loyale has more horsepower too
  19. It may just be me, but it reminds me a lot of the Datsun 510 wagons - the front end is different, but the sides, in particular the door handles seem VERY similar right down to the style stripe and the rear window for the cargo area - 'cept this is FWD with a flat-4 1400cc (EA63?) and the 510 had an inline 4 Nissan L-16 with 1600cc engine
  20. I'd fix it if it isn't rusted out - MPFI N/A's are pretty rare - for that matter so are 1985 MY GL-10's - nice potential convert to 4WD D/R .... especially if the body is half decent I would not necessarily count the head as being shot either - things like that are hard to tell until it is off - and the 1-3 head is not as difficult to remove as the other side for that matter .....
  21. probably not because imprezas are completely different beasts
  22. Did you make a lot of short trips in the car? If so, the intake valve could be crudded up because gas on the back of it "baked" on because the engine was not fully warmed up - happened a lot on 80's BMW's - running MMO/Techron supposedly helps clean it up. not sure about valve seats
  23. there are three types gaskets I know of that could cause you to burn antifreeze - the one under your carb (actually had that problem once), the intake manifold gaskets, and the head gaskets (if you total up all the gaskets, that makes five - 2 intake, 2 head) - in your case I would be surprized if it is merely (hopefully) the gasket below the carb - a compression test would tell you of a bad HG - otherwise it is the intake manifold gaskets
  24. NO - my dealer caught my car on fire by pouring motor oil down the preheat tube - tried 7 different carbs and never got one to work properly - and about half the retaining bolt/screws for the passenger side of the dash are gone because of them WJM - it is Southern States
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