85Sub4WD

thanks - I really dont have time to wait for shipping - I am going to try to have it fully operational about 12 hrs from now, luckily I had tomorrow off anyway. Thanks a ton for the info though. Matt BTW - I replaced the seals in december - I noticed there is a directional groving to the seal - hence why the different part #'s - I think I didn't have the seal seated properly when I installed it, hence the early failure thanks again

Hey - I just blew the left front axle stub seal on the tranny, sending copious amounts of gear oil all over my driveway - anybody know the part #'s for generic (NAPA, CarQuest, etc) replacements - I need the car sooner than the dealer will be able to get me a seal (pref by the end of tomorrow morning) - carquest # would be nice, because they have a distribution hub near here thanks

the biggest concern would be making sure it lines up right with the seatbelt, and that it is FIRMLY attached in place - why? - because in case of an accident, you dont want it to come apart on you if you are most concerned about safety, GL-10 seats are very nice, and will bolt into any EA82 with no mods (adjustable height, headrests, and of course lean, distance, lumbar) - people have put legacy seats in, but it requires welding togeter a subframe, or carefully making adaptor brackets I doubt honda seats will fit easily at all - be prepared to do some major fabbing, and be sure that you use LARGE pieces of metal - just realize what's at stake......

you simply need to adjust your hill-holder cable pop the hood, and remove the spare tyre - have someone actuate the clutch pedal, and watch the fork move - you will see two cables connected to the fork - one goes to the pedal, the other goes to the hill-holder mechanism (located below the brake master cylinder) - you need to loosen the one that goes to the hill-holder mechanism - loosen, try it on a hill, then adjust as necessary until you get the action you want good luck!!

either the passenger side cam should be at the top at TDC with the driver's side on the bottom, or vice versa - you should NEVER have both cam marks a the top, at the same time - other than that, you're on the right track good luck

Skip, please correct me if I am wrong, as I dont mess much with EA71's but I thought there were three variations - The first one was the 1970's version - it had removeable piston liners, and tended to blow head gaskets. It has a top-center mounted starter. The second one was the late 1970's/early 1980's one that had a top-center mount starter, but cast-in-block liners. A much more solid design. Same characteristics (for the most part) as the other EA71. The third one was made in the late 1980's, mainly for the JDM and European markets, that had the same starter mounting position as the EA81, and it was used in the EA82 style body - it had hydraulic lifters, and was very different from the normal EA71's in other ways (higher compression ratio). It is very rare in the US, but will mate to EA81 or EA82 transaxles. (I don't know if it was even imported here as factory equipment.) - this is what I think is being refered to as a "fat case" EA71 I may be confusing the EA71 with the 1400 engine for the first two examples, but I do remember a board member having trouble getting a JDM EA71 engine he bought to fit in his car due to the different intake/exhaust setup, and managing to get a EA81 intake to fit. Please do correct me if I am wrong tho......

drop the JDM STI drivetrain into it - mind you, you will have to do a LOT of modding

I have an XT service manual that covers the 4EAT - duty solonoid A is in the val ve body (surprise) - it controls the hydraulic pressure in the tranny - if it is stuck open, you wont go anywhere - I'd check the connectors first, before trying to pull the tranny apart according to the troubleshooting table - it says the error code generally indicates "severed solenoid or short circuit, severed wire harness or short circuit"

did you disconnect the EGR tube (stupid question) - that will hold you up if you didnt - after that - prybar & WD-40 to the rescue

the engine may, or may not fit - is the starter in the top-center, or to the left of the top of the bellhousing? (looking as if you are sitting in the driver's seat, facing forward) If it is the latter (left of top), it should bolt up (I think all 3-speed autos use the compatible configuration) - yes, you will need the wiring harness/computer from the turbo car - there's really no way around it, there are some aftermarket FI systems, but it would be easier to install a stock Subaru system good luck

EA81 and EA82 flywheels will interchange between each other, but they use an odd-space bolt pattern so they only go on in ONE way (because the timing marks are on it) - the EJ engines use an even-spaced bolt pattern - EA flywheels can be adapted tho to work on EJ engines - ask someone who has done the conversion, and they can tell you how

yep - and if you look in the USRM under transmission secton - you can find info on converting from the 4-speed D/R to the 5-speed D/R - 5-speed is advantageous if you do highway driving, because it has overdrive - and pretty much the same ratios as the 4-speed

hmm - check the system with an ohmmeter - theres a thermal cutoff on the compressor too (should be closed, no resistance) - and I agree with Cougar that the magnetic clutch may also be an issue - another thing that could be the problem is the control module itself - but I think it is a pain to get to, so you want to avoid it if at all possible

generally, oil pump leads to ticking on EA82 OHC engines - your brat will have an EA81, if its not been modded, and some engines have adjustable valves - I think if you look on the valve cover, or your owner's manual you will be able to tell - being an '86 tho, I was expecting hydraulic lifters...... I'm shure an EA81 specialist will chime in...... oil pump reseals usually do the trick (if thats your problem) - just get ALL the gaskets - and it is REALLY easy to get to on an EA81 - go with OEM ONLY - Ive had issues with non-Subaru gaskets... I'd be cautious about driving it until you know if it has good oil pressure - you dont want to hurt any main bearings... Good Luck!!

fans dont really matter (mine is bypassed from it anyway) - just that pulser assy - if you have the pulser (the pickup I mentioned) hooked up properly, and the pressure switch bypassed, you shouldnt have an issue (unless the relay or pulser unit is bad) - there is a thermal protector switch as well (yours is Matsu************a) located on the compressor as well, but if that was open, the compressor wouldnt even engague in the first place...... - if someone has the diagrams AND a scanner, I hope they scan the diagram - I have the diagrams, but no scanner, or digital camera edit - ammusing - I guess there is a new censory thing - OK - I'll just call it Panasonic - I was using the "Subaru" name for the system...... the word it is filtering is the japanese name for the company anyway...... I dont know why Subaru uses it

what's wrong with the fuel pump?

as I recall, in the late 80's when Subaru started to phase the EA71 out, they started using a similar block to the EA81, so that an EA81 intake manifold and Y-pipe will fit, but a standard EA71 will not - I may be wrong, but I think they also started using an EA81 bellhousing bottom line, the engine is wider

actually - the pulse amplifier seems to be the "brain" of the A/C system - there also seems to be provision in it for the thermal sensor on the evaporator, and all those other goodies that keep the AC system from getting overloaded (it must cycle) - I would be surprised if the pulse amplifier is faulty, as the system did cut on for a little while - are you shure you are jumping the low pressure switch, and not the fan switch? theres another switch right nest to the low pressure switch to detect that the pressure is high enough that the fan needs to come on one thing I forgot to mention - make shure you dont overcharge the system (esp. if you are using 134a) - you will have the Matsu************a compressor stock, which is more efficent (doesnt slow your car down), but less reliable than the hitachi - so just charge until you get cooling - I blew the compressor the first time I tried (seal went) - actually, my current system is running on regular mineral oil, with EnviroSafe refrigerant - it is not 134a, but it is perfectly legal for non-professional use, and it seems to work very well, Ive had this setup on my car for over a year now, with no problems - I did have to order it offline - its made somewhere on the west coast.......

theres a little black box somewhere under the passenger side of the dash - that is the "pulse amplifier" it intervenes in the compressor cycle if belt slippage is detected - it connects to the ignition coil (-), and the pulser assy - and is between the low pressure switch and relay - if it was completely missing, nothing would happen - sorry I dont have access to a scanner, or i'd scan it as I have the FSM - the gap does not have to be exact - as close as you can comfortably get to the compressor tines, without touching is how I always measure it - I'm trying to find the exact measurement now

yep - bolts right in - shift consol is the only difference - seems to be a pretty common mod. for loyales too.......

I think their scarecity in florida is partially due to the fact you guys never get any snow, or have any hills - they are common in the Appalachan Mountains areas - though most are pretty rusted out mine is actually a "native" florida car - it was purchased new from Potampkin Subaru (think they are now Kia or something) in the Miami area around June 1985 - one of the few 4WD models on the lot - its held up great tho, I still have the orig. dealer emblem (not just a decal), and I still have the orig sticker, and paperwork

I dont know why - but I find this funny - I guess this is one mod I didnt think many people did still, Ive always liked the stock amber gauges on my '85 - always clear and unobtrusive....... anyway - there are filters in the dash lighting you could probably change to achieve the desired result..... and there's always LED's

K - first of all, did you have the replaced heads resurfaced? torque down in correct pattern? gearlube leak is not that bad an issue - the seals are replaceable, but you want them from the dealer - www.halspartsandservice.com can get them for you easily (I replaced mine recently) - they are specific left/right too, so specify which you need - ask about the install proceedure too - because it is very specific, but not too hard the CV axles are available from everywhere - some are better than others - there is a place that does high quality work out of south florida, but I dont know their name good luck!!

I vote with tom - I dont see how the bulbs could cause it - my second suspect would be the turn signal switch itself check grounds too

he he - they werent available - I just use the area between the E-brake, driver's seat, 4WD lever, and console to hold my drink - and my passengers can figure it all out themselves