85Sub4WD

Something similar happened my senior year in HS - their demolition subject however was an early-model Justy 2WD that was BADLY rusted out, so I was not terribly distraught over it - still, it is horrible to see something like that

I do - it seems to make sense - especially looking at the floaties you showed in a previous post

I think she's beautiful, sunroof and all - I think those rims go well with the car next question, is she 4WD?

I usually wedge it between my seat, ebrake lever, 4WD lever, and consol - downside is that it takes a small cup, and I sometimes find myself in 4WD - otherwise I hold it between my legs (which is fun driving stick) - or use a sealing container and let it roll all over the passenger side of the car.

It could be a bearing on the waterpump or the alternator - you could use a stethoscope (shop type with rod) to check.

oops - I guess they switched over in 88 - that is the MY hood on my car now, and they are on the hood (I just have the orig. ones on the cowel hooked up) anyway, that is the only difference I know of between hoods

see about getting one from a JY ( http://www.halspartsandservice.com ) or plug the holes up - I think there is also a repair article here http://www.usmb.net/repair/?CurrentDirectory=FOLDER_3f29ddceb73856.77194796/&FileType=Article&File=ARTICLE_3f3c62be2ef9f8.91773347.art that addresses how to fix it

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=61 I did it myself - not that hard, you do have to plug the pipes for the Air Injection system (which I assume you have already done - I fabbed aluminum coverplates plates out of scrapmetal), and from then on, it isn't so bad, especially if you have a donor car with a known working engine - the exhaust system connection is probably the hardest part - just make sure the ECU case is well grounded - I think the carb engine cams actually work very well with SPFI everything else - I just wish I had the 9.5:1 compression ratio (more power) - I normally around 25mpg in the city now vs. about 18 before

Should, I think all EA82 hoods are the same. Save the differences in windshield washer mechanisms pre 87 cars have them on the cowel, and 87-later have them on the hood.

How's your oil pressure? Tranny fluid? has it been changed recently?

It could be the oil pan or a number of other places dripping and it getting blown onto the cat converter - best option is to thourghly clean the engine, and check for leaks again - you can pull the engine or transmission to do the rear main seal if that is the case - if it is the oil pan I would probably just take the engine mounts loose and raise it a bit.

Brats are EA81 cars, Leones are EA82 completely different body, structual design, etc I have never called an EA81 car a safe car; I think the CARS are safer than most of that era - look at the Datsun 210, Hondas, and Toyotas of the day actual passenger compartment intrusion is the biggest factor as far as physical injuries - while a car that is designed to crumple up may reduce your injuries in a minor accident, it has greater potiential to cause passenger compartment intrusion in a more serious accident - I have seen many wrecked soobs (and for that matter other cars) of different ages around here in JY's, I have not seen any with serious passenger compartment (I saw one which had moved the side in about 2cm) The 70's soobs were really light - they were not safe cars in any way, the EA81 was a massive improvement, but the EA82 body was the big step forward - newer Legacys outscore Volvos in all US government and private crash tests - so if you do want a newer car, you are still safest to stay with a soob

If you changed it by tightening your sway bar bolts, then you are going in the right direction - I would make sure that all the rubber sway bar (stableizer) bushings are in good shape. - it could theoretically cause a clunk how about balljoints? are they in good shape? - jack the front end up (front tires off the ground) and see how much free motion is in the suspension Have you checked your AT fluid level? A thunk on hard acceleration can also be a sign of a torque converter having issues. If it is 4WD, a bad U-joint can also clunk (it is impelled even when you are not in 4WD mode)

that site does not go back to 1987 - just to 1990 - ebay is a good source for literature like that search for "Subaru 1987" and look for a service manual - great to have for your car if you do your own work - if you contact whoever runs that site (it is the official Subaru Technical site) they may be able to tell you how to get that info I do not know how an '87 is wired, and I do not have access to a scanner to give you the pinout to my '85 radio pinout (I haven't messed with my radio much)

Two Saturns and a Honda have died on our car (their driver's fault) - without any serious injury to the passenger or any passenger compartment intrusion whatsoever. The owner of one of the Saturns was injured, and had severe passenger compartment intrusion. (broke out all the windows in her car too) and she was hit on the B-pillar too. - My mom was driving (and the only one in the car at the time) she was uninjured, but the force of impact was enough for her glasses to fly off her face and get lodged in the dash - she was wearing her seatbelt, and was fine, save some muscle pain from tightening up just before impact - but no car can protect you from that. I consiter my Subaru to be a very safe car, they are/were required to pass all US safety tests when they were manufactured, and they are/were pretty stringent. I do not feel endangered in any way when I drive my car - all I need to do is drive with common sense, and my car will protect me from what I cannot.

ditto on that - I want an OEM-style key with light if those are still available - the '03 quick referance manual says yes, but it is several years out of date

the hatch takes a difft length driveshaft than the EA82 sedan or wagon, so a 4sp D/R out of a hatch (w/ axle) is your best option, unless you want to have it fabbed BTW - late model EA71's have the starter on the side, so it may very well be an EA71 - in which case I would probably swap an EA81 (or EA82) in soon

I would first find out if it is 4WD - that makes a big difference as to whether or not it is worth persuing - then find out mileage and overall condition - if it is 4WD and pristine, save for the headgasket/head, and it has a lot of goodies, I would try to tackle it if I could in some way afford it - otherwise, I would see if I could nab some parts off it if he/she is going to junk it

all 87-later L cars have them, yours and mine don't have them because they are pre-87 MY, and all pre-87 MY have it all on the dash (hazard on steering column) - I like the control layout on the 85-86 more b/c of that (and a few other things - like the wiper control)

there are rubber service plugs on the front timing belt cover (they are on the lower part of it) - they can be removed easily for inspection (stick you finger down in there and feel for a belt) - both sides will need to be checked (two belts - one for each side) - removing the T-belt covers for inspection is not hard to do either, as there are three different sections, and the sections over the camshaft pullies come off easily (10mm wrench) - if it has slipped, all it will need is a new belt as these engines are non-interference Good Luck!!

thanks for mentioning that - I thought they went interference at some point, but did not know for sure

OK - I guess I was overreacting - when I pulled my intake and exhaust off, it was spotless inside (I shot light through to see through sparkplug holes) but it has been babied in many ways all its life, and has had various cleaners (MMO, techron) put through it on a regular basis too - so that may have helped also bajavwnsoobnut is right about using the dead blow hammer or something like that - you can use something like that in shear with the seal - just make sure all the bolts are out Good Luck!!

OK, that means that your CAS should be fine, because your computer can detect if your car is trying to start (starter engaged) and it will throw either a code 11 or 13 error - four flashes simply designates model - next step is to see if you are getting a spark from the coil, and fuel from the injector I would think loose wire at this point - NorthWet is probably right - I have never owned an AT car, and I know they are VERY sensitive to towing - a friend of mine ran a tranny shop for years, and much (if not most) of his business came from people who had towed AT cars on the ground - a flatbed is your best (and safest) option.

your disty is actually a very sensitive optically-driven Crank Angle Sensor - if you got water in it you might have killed it - I would pull the ECU codes to be sure - otherwise, it is a trip to the JY BTW - you have to raise the front wheels at the VERY least, and if you tow it like that, it should be for a VERY short distance

it sounds like the air injection system is acting up - do a search, and you will find lotsa info on it! - I had mine make noise when it was carbed, but never shoot flames!!! it is still possible though...