85Sub4WD

Many soob switches I have seen (lights, wiper, etc.) already have a nonconductive grease inside them from the factory - but that grease tends to react with the copper contacts and oxidizes them (I think it contains sulfur by the smell) - I had a horrible problem with my intermitent wiper setting, and found that to be the problem therefore I am disinclined to use grease of any form inside switches - dielectric my be OK, but I know just any grease is not a good idea, because copper is (while a good conductor) fairly reactive

that would work, but the police use the VIN number to enforce those restrictions, so swapping the hood wouldn't get you anything

the 1985 buyer's guide spec's 90 or higher (us method) - I run midtest (89) and get better performance/mileage than regular (87) by a 2-3 mpg difference - has always been that way since new - runs like a dog with regular - however I don't mess with premium - wayyy too expensive

1985 RX - lower gear reduction is 1.196 for 4WD low 1st - 3.545 2nd - 1.947 3rd - 1.366 4th - 0.972 5th - 0.780 reverse - 3.416 BTW it is in the owner's manual

that sounds like the high-idle adjustment screw, if the car is warmed up, it won't do a thing

My EA82 was pretty gutless in general when it was carbed, but if it was reved up past 4k rpm, it took off quickly - carbed EA82's aren't that fast, but you should be able to get well under a minute for your 0-60 time - bad carb? or ignition issues? how's your timing set?

I thought the weight difference was much more ... but then I was moving the EJ up a STEEP hill (near Sparta). I can see why it would be appealing, especially if the weight difference is not all that great ... but then again, the EA82 is such a good engine - copper headgaskets?? - you decide what you want to do!! - you have many good options and yes, you have proven your point - old school rocks!!

Stick with the EA82T - the EJ-series is argueably a better engine, but the EA was designed for the car, and is MUCH lighter - lighter engine = better handeling - you were doing great until the head gasket blew - and that appears to be more mileage than abuse, so you still haven't really reached the limits of the engine's design - and putting something as heavy as an EJ series engine in your car would not help you corner - old school is the way to go

I was looking at the parts manual for a legacy turbo, and realized that he pumbing for the legacy turbo may be close to bolt-on for the XT6 - not sure about clearence of crossmembers - but that still leaves issues with the CR and boost management.

that engine looks right for a rebuild - or to be replaced! - argh - looks like someone put something nasty in for oil - or did not change it

ahh ... double post

yep - I agree with her too - if you flushed the radiator out, chances are that it is just air in the system, park it so the nose is as high as possible, and flex the top radiator hose/bounce up and down on the front end with the engine off, add coolant, start it, and let it idle, still bouncing the front bumper up and down (not too violently) - add coolant as the bubbles work their way to the top, try this for a while - if after some time the bubbles do not dimish/cease, I would rev check for steam out the back end, and for wet plugs (from coolant) - if you find them, then you have a blown head gasket a compression test will also tell you a lot

I would pull the codes from the ECU - it may give you a good lead on the problem

you are dealing with a con artist or something like that - that kind of person makes me angry - yes installing the timing belts wrong would definately make it behave like that (or worse - it may not start at all) - the symptoms you describe are TEXTBOOK signs of a bad installation - he probably did not rotate (yes, it is part of the proceedure) it during the installation, and one of the cams is WAYY off as a result he did not dig into it - he pulled the T-belt covers off, saw the broken belt, and made the rest up - if he had pulled the engine apart, he would have seen the valves in fine condition, and not told you they were bent - he would have also charged you for a head gasket, and associated components if you do replace your t-belt - note that there are two of them, one for the driver's side, one for the passenger side - both should be replaced at the same time I have had to deal with similar kinds of crap around here - that is why I am the only person who services my car - the dealership even caught it on fire once by pouring oil down the preheat tube!! - (if your car is FI, it does not have one)

I would first check to see if it would be a prob. with emissions folks in your area - the carb itself is not hard to come by, but you need a special adaptor plate, and that is harder to find whether it is worth it or not depends on how badly you want more power, I have a friend that had a weberized soob, and loved the difference, but I skipped that mod, and went strait to FI, so I cannot comment on it

I converted my wagon to SPFI - the hitachi carb SUCKS - improved power and fuel economy is it cheap? - depends on your parts source is it easy? - no, but it is still very do-able - there is a section in the repair manual about it - I converted mine before it was written is it worth it? - if you can do it YES!!! - big power, performance, and reliability gain is there an easier solution - yes, put on a Weber Carbuerator - but not really cheap BTW - do you have OEM wires, NGK plugs, and an OEM cap and rotor for your disty? - if not, installing them will probably up your power a bit

yes, he would lie about the timing belt, or he was an idiot and did not look it up - all subarus pre-2.5L legacy (EJ25? - mid-90's) were non-interference bent valve stories are very common tales heard on the board - (I guess many don't complain b/c they pick up cars for $100 with "bent valves") as to the problems, he probably installed the timing belts incorrectly (common mistake by newbies to EA82 engines) and that is why it ran like poo - I think there is info on timing belt changes in the repair manual section of this webpage it is a 3h job if it is your first time - less than half if you have done one before

stock is 20-degrees BTDC - if you don't notice driveability issues (ie pinging/knocking), I would not worry about it!

no, not really if everything is working properly - they will take the same amount of power to run, one is driven directly, the other uses the alternator to deliver the power to it - same difference the only real possible upgrade I see is improved cooling

Please people, the EA82 motor is not interference, so no bent valves - COMPLETE BS!!! Timing belts are a grand total of ~$50 - do it yourself - it's easy I beg to differ about the whole prob of 240k miles, if the body is decent, save the car, EA82 cars are great, reliable machines (we have owned one for 20+ years) drive it, enjoy it

not really - a smaller turbo will probably just spin faster - and wear out quicker - the best way would be to put decent sized one on and set it to a low boost (waste gate opens earlier) - but then again, I am not a turbo-guru

Very true, the clutch would be my big concern too - just of note, the XT6 engine has the same bore as the EA82T, and the SVX engine has the same bore as the EJ22T - so it would be possible to create an SVX turbo too ... and I KNOW that has been done before

The XT6 is turboable, and it has been done before (though I do not know who did it) The pistons from an EA82T will fit the XT6 engine to lower compression, though some sort of boost control system will need to be added, as well as some sort of mixture adjustment system to accomidate boost. Custom copper head gaskets will also be needed, not to mention all of the intake/exhaust fabbing

that would be 17mm I think I am still surprised that your engine needs a rebuild - I have far more mileage on mine and am having no problems with it

I have a Craftsman digital multimeter - has served me well for at least seven years now Flukes are the best, and I would look into repairing it - I have found that they are far more sensitive and accurate than any other multimeter I have used - I don't own one, but I will try to get one some day Harbour Freight/Wal-Mart equipment works for simple stuff - but you get what you pay for - if you need accuracy (I work on electronics too) then you need something better, but for GENERAL diagnostics, they work fine.