85Sub4WD

I know the CarQuest near me has the equipment, but they are a distrubution center - so your local one may not be able to do it - I am not sure if they can check older Soob ECU's though - probably have American, and big three Japanese - check NAPA, and the dealership may even have it - however, I know the scan equipment for these ECU's was not common, even in their day Another thing to consiter is the firmware of the ECU's evolved over time - while they are interchangeable to the point that they will work between model years, I would opt for a later, rather than earlier model ECU if I have to replace it - reflashing it is something we ALL wish we could do (I know it is possible on earlier ones), but that would cost big $ Good Luck!

the difference is carbed vs FI - hitachis are the ones (I think) that screw down, and have a screw down rotor - mostly FI cars, ND's have a clip-on cap, and push-on rotor - I may have it backwards, but I know of those two different systems

yes, that is normal for MMO and I assume Seafoam - I have a good friend that is a petroleum expert, and he indicated to me that both are very similar compounds chemically speaking - mine usually does not do that unless it has REALLY been gunked up for some reason

I think we posted at about the same time! I am really thinking it is not a head gasket at this point - you need a 180-degree thermostat - 82-degrees celsius - no, it is not original spec, but it is best I had to make that change on my soob - was overheating in much the same way - found I had too much antifreeze, and a lower temp thermostat - hasn't overheated since I don't mess with Quaker State oil because it has serious wax issues - can gum-up and spin bearings - I had to overhaul an engine once in which Quaker State had been used - had to redo a whole lot of stuff, ended up selling it for a $150 core, because it wasn't worth the trouble - I usually use Castrol, because it cheap (natural stuff is, here at least) and reliable my family has used it since 1972, and not had any problems

ditto on the oil - 10w-30 is probably too light, I run that, but mine has been babied 99% of its entire life (my family bought it new) - I would recommend 15w-40 or heavier for engine - these engines are not like modern Japanese engines with super-light oil requirements, they need a pretty heavy oil to function well

sounds a LOT like the problem I had with my dead (but not really) computer - I know that is the last thing you want to hear, and I recommend changing the coolant sensor and checking the closed throttle switch first (on side of throttle body), but that is a likely cause of the prob

sounds like an infamous subaru vacuum leak - gave me neverending grief when I was carbed - if IAC is not the problem, your idle adjustment screw may be off

I assume you bypassed the pulse sensor - anyway, letting your A/C system sit unused for months on end is a very sure way to destroy it - it needs to be switched on, at least once a month - I know from an A/C specialist, and I think it is in my 1985 FSM suppliment what compressor do you have? if it is panasonic, junk it and go hitachi - bigger, slightly heavier, but works 1000x better, and the compressor is rebuildable fixing the A/C is high on my to-do list now too... does anyone know about major R-134a compatibility issues?

you mean the clear connectors? I would pull the battery cable to be sure for about 15 min - sometimes these things are finicky - hope it is just a bad code refusing to clear, otherwise it is your valve

um... sounds like your head gasket blew from overheating or you have crappy oil in it - I am thinking poor oil, b/c it started doing it after the oil change (makes sense) - Castrol GTX is a good economy oil, Purolator, Wix and OEM are preferable filters - Frams have a nasty habbit of disintigrating and destroying your engine - if you have under 200k miles on it, I would be surprized if you had blown the head gasket - a compression test will tell all - don't chuck it yet!! what antifreeze mixture were you running? - I assume 50/50? - don't go more than about 60% antifreeze or else the engine will not cool properly (antifreeze does not transfer heat well) - the thermoswitch can be bypassed with a small piece of wire and two male blade connectors - makes fan run all the time the ignition is in on/acc - I did that a while back w/ no cooling probs since - replace the thermostat (if you haven't already) with an OEM one - aftermarket ones are literally garbage - they WILL cause your engine to overheat - had a nasty time with a CarQuest one ... generally speaking, OEM parts are WORTH THE MONEY, even if they can be expensive, because aftermarket ones do not last nearly as long, and can damage your car

you must reset your computer for it to go away - they don't cycle out trouble codes you should replace it - it should be about $5 at a JY - just be careful removing the vinyl tubes from the plastic as they tend to break - hope it goes well

I just replaced mine with a stock type sylvania - a LOT brighter - I think the bulb had aged and dimmed - LED's are your best option for an upgrade, in every way possible - they will last forever too I do theatre tech on the side, and we use halogen lamps that take up to 750 watts of power - that gets VERY hot - I see your concern about heat, but most of the heat in those lighting instruments comes from waste heat due to their inefficentcy - visible light has virtually no heat associated with it (if you have enough it does, but that amount of light would instantly blind you) using LED's will eliminate the need for your concern about heat and current draw, they are one of the most efficent means of generating light available today (little waste heat - in fact there is virtually none), they have a good color temp (which means they are white), and various other desireable characteristics (extremely long life)

The vapors are drawn in when the engine is warmed up. - So you would not know of a failure until it had reached operating temp. - I assume you pulled the trouble codes to figure out the EVAP problem - don't bother with the canister - the car cannot tell whether it is or is not working - the only thing that will cause the computer to send a trouble code reguarding that system is the electric purge solenoid

Realistically, the cost of buying a new/rebuilt ECU is low enough it is not worth screwing around with your old one. - Most work, or don't - Had one run rich on me (threw in a spare, problem solved) - generally speaking, they aren't worth messing with Yes, they can be plugged in and tested - but they're not worth it

I started to go through that scenario - then I looked at my situation, and decided that I should go ahead and replace them all - and now I have peace of mind

Maybe, but I think it needs a tune up - disty cap & rotor, and ig. wires - all should be OEM that sounds more like a warped brake rotor - if you have a brake job done on the front end, make sure the front rotors are "turned" - and if they need replacement, OEM or a good name brand (like Bendex or Raybestos) top-of-the line quality should be used - there are many knock-offs on the market that are not very good, and practically unsafe I would change all fluids sooner than later - oil should be done ASAP - and use a good quality oil and 10w-30 is probably a good viscosity to use - nothing lighter, and you may prefer 15w-40 later down the road - coolant and gear oil can wait till you get it home, but should be done soon too Oil - I use Castrol Synthetic Blend 10w-30 in the summer, and 15w-40 in the winter (I avoid 10w-40 because it has historically had gelling issues in all engines; however, soobs are not gelling-prone) - Mobil or Mobil 1 is preferable - NOT A FRAM FILTER - Purolator, Wix, or OEM filter should be used Coolant - the green stuff - make sure it is 50/50 mix Gear Oil - Mobil 1 75w-90 Plugs - most feel NGK's are the best The timing belts should be replaced, as well as all front oil seals (cams, front main, and oil pump reseal) - it won't be cheap if you have a shop do it, but parts are very cheap if you do it yourself - fuel filter should be changed, and the air filter needs to be inspected

I know for 1985 MY Soobs, the factory recommended octane is 90 or higher - I run 89 in mine, no probs whatsoever. Be careful with the water trick - that steam can not only break carbon up, but also break you headgasket - had it happen to a neighbor once after he did it

yes, it is happening here too - some of the newer fluxes are absolutely horrible, but silver is very good I recommended lead because of its low melting point (which makes it easy to solder with), and because of how cheap it is silver is an equally good conductor, and is probably safer too - I think it has a higher melting point though, which would make it more difficult to solder with most all the soldering I do is for fine connections, and I have to be very careful as to how much heat I can apply, so I like a low melting point

Tinned wire is a VERY bad idea for cars - not nearly as good a conductor as copper, and the corrosion resistance on roads does not require such extreme means - obviously never use aluminium wire soldering IS the best connection out there - if it is done properly with a high-lead content flux (provided it is not in a high temp area) - cold solder can cause connections to break, but properly soldered wires are MUCH stronger than crimps that said, use your standard crimps available, marine grade is generally the same stuff but priced higher (there are exceptions) - I have been working on boats a lot the past few summers in Key Largo, Florida, and they sit year-round in high salt/UV conditions - most all the stuff ends up the same in the end Skip, Vanislru - I am very impressed at your electrical knowledge, I am studying Electrical Engineering, and some who have earned their batchleor's degree still don't know the elecrical differences between stranded and solid wires! BTW - THHN wire used in conduit would be a good choice because it has three layers of insulation (I know the first is supposed to be at least somewhat oil/water resistant) and the insulation is rated for 90-degrees celsius

if you could that would be great - I had the old "wagon wheels" before I switched to aluminum alloys - had to have the rings - don't know for sure about the other steel rims - problem was, most shops around here are VERY sloppy, and they were broken almost every time the car went in the shop for anything to do with the tires

Theoretically, there is some advantage to them in exactally the same way that pyromaniac said but realisitcally - more power => bigger boom => more air + fuel OR better combustion as these engines are designed for good, even combustion in order to pass emissions, the latter option for a power boost is therefore already taken care of - this is the one area that the tornado actually works on the tornado thingy does nothing to increase the amount of air (or fuel) going into the intake, so it does NOTHING to increase your power, unless you are driving an old V-8 in which technology did not permit an engine (or carb) that would allow for good, even mixture of the fuel and air, something which the tornado would do therefore - the tornado would help your '64 1/2 Mustang, but probably not your Subaru - unless it was made in the 70's - in fact it adds resistance to the intake, so if anything it will probably hurt performance on your car a turbocharger is your best option for increasing power with a engine of a given displacement, a well tuned engine will help fuel economy - I regularly get 25mpg city - and I have a lead foot - you can polish the intake manifold and get a similar result if you do see a difference with the tornado, it probably means your engine is out of tune (dirty injectors or carb jets)

do you have the plastic rings to go with them? they are necessary for mounting the center hubcaps

It is the pistons that determine the compression for these engines - the combustion chambers in the heads are basically identical EA81 and EA82 are pistons are interchangeable, and I believe EA71 are too - SPFI/Late (87-later) MPFI N/A - 9.5:1 CR EA82 carb/early MPFI N/A - 9:1 CR EA81 carb - 8.7:1 CR EA71 - ? For the highest CR, you want SPFI pistons (block) - carb cams will lower your torque and hp - that is the combo I would personally use don't know of any MPFI heads with a true dual exhaust port the 1985 Turbo had almost all the features of a GL-10 automatically, but it did not have the name (from the factory - though swapping decals is easy) - I found this out after looking through my original 1985 buyer's guide, owner's manual, and FSM - my parents ran into that problem when they bought my car new in 1985 - they wanted a N/A FI engine and 4WD; a combination that was not available - GL-10 was N/A FI, but only 2WD, Turbo was FI (of course) and 4WD, but it was only in an automatic transmission (which they did not want) and it had a turbo, which they also did not want

I would check all ignition components - like cap and rotor too - just to be sure. I would also check the fuel system if the ignition system is not the culprit - a dead fuel pump could do that, as well as a CAS or computer failure - but I doubt there would be sputtering with those

NorthWet and MorganM - you are both right - I looked in my '85 FSM, and 4WD carbed cars do not have a second cat - just a resonator, while some others do (all FI cars) - go figure your problem does not sound like a clogged cat to me - fuel delivery system is high on my list, and compression is not far behind - your head gasket may be on its way out