85Sub4WD

same here - check bushings/bearings for free play/noise - actually, I need to do my rear suspension bushings damaged/worn out rear struts can also do weird stuff to the rear alignment - you can adjust preload on the rear struts (at least on 4WD models) but that is it

did you give it the 15 min set time before assembling it? - I have had no trouble w/ the Ultra Copper RTV silicone, nor any other engine-grade RTV's AS LONG AS I give it proper time to set before assembling it - I have used various RTV's on many/most of my seals, and have not had any trouble yet - I agree with the others though, Anaerobic is probably the best for this application. - and cleanliness is CRITICAL for seals - like what the other guys said hope it goes well this time!

Next time your neighbor's blazer is in the shop, don't give him a ride - in fact use the same line on him! probably - I have never looked closely at them or their shop because it may cause me to make involuntary muscle movements ... or break something their idiots - can't expect too much out of them

O2 sensor plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor fuel filter

to be honest, I did not check rotor clearence - I just replaced the seals - I have never heard of the rotor wearing beyond the limits, I suppose it can, but as it is submerged in oil, I don't think it should if the engine has been maintained - just make sure you put EVERYTHING back together correctly, the same way as they came out

N/A dual port MPFI heads are also on 85 GL-10 engines (no turbo or 4WD GL-10 that year). All '85 engines except turbos have a 9.0:1 CR (carb and MPFI N/A are same pistons) - less than the SPFI 9.5:1 CR - difft pistons for that year... - but all later MPFI N/A (at least 87-later) use the 9.5:1 CR

I like that option the best - least work for me A prybar would also be a good idea - if you are not worried about the tires for some reason, you could try heating the rim while pounding on it - be careful as these rims can bend.

That sounds like a byproduct of when oil and water meet - I would check for water in the oil getting sucked into the engine, or some other similar possibility

Umm - do not put API GL-5 in your auto transmission - that would be AF3 that you would use (something Dexron III/ATF III I assume - but don't know - yes it is red, and the stuff isn't crap when maintained) - API GL-5 oil has sulfur in it, and would completely destroy your transmission (eat up everything) the API GL-5 goes in the front diff of the auto tranny, and the rear diff - I have noticed a few errors (typos/formatting) in my FSM - this would not be the first your transmission problems sound like the previous owner drove the car hard - or that he/she never changed the tranny fluid - which is something critical on Soobs

Resetting the computer may be a good idea - and give it a few weeks to learn the new sensor Actually, that is about right for an AT car - but when I did my FI conversion, I stumbled across a faulty computer that ran my car VERY rich - swapped it out with one from a '92 Loyale - 25mpg CITY (that was after 18mpg city) - but it is a MT car - but I have a very LEAD foot - a spare computer may be a good idea anyway Do you accelerate hard? - that GOBBLES gas and what RPM is it cruising at? - if it is overreving durring dayly driving, you may have a transmission issue - check for tranny slippage too - both will give you horrible gas mileage

Did same thing with mine about 2-3 years ago - found same stuff - I think there was actually a TSB on some sort of rodent problems in the A/C system - don't know for sure though, but I think I saw something listed on alldata.com - glad you fixed it!

are you running a really light oil? - these engines are not designed for anything below 10w-30 - you may even try 15w-40 as it is (I assume) a worn engine also, you may want to replace the PCV valve anyway - they don't always "look" bad when they are - a bad PCV will cause every seal to leak like it is bad - been there, done that - a $5 part is better than an engine rebuild - make sure it is OEM, as aftermarkets are known to have real performance issues

no specialty tool - just a socket wrench drive

Vacuum leak? - just thinking (dangerous thing for me to do!) - sounds like another real possibility hope you get it fixed!!

looks OK - but you should be able to get OEM parts at comporable prices from www.1stsubaruparts.com or www.halspartsandservice.com 1stsubaruparts is internet based ordering - I know several board members use them and like them, though I haven't personally Hal's Parts and Service is who I use because he is within driving distance of me and he has a soob-only junkyard - knowledgeable guy too, and good to work with - lotsa soob expierence - new and old school I think some members use www.thepartsbin.com or something by a similar URL - there are a zillion different online parts stores, find one you feel comfortable with

it is true that they need to be pumped up - my FSM is extremely vague on the proceedure - but as I understand it you need to submerge it in motor oil and pump it until no bubbles come out of it/it feels firm.

TPS is on the right side of the throttle body when looking at it from the front - however, I don't think the internal contacts can be cleaned, just the external connector Nobody has mentioned plugs/wires/cap/rotor - all of those things are very common causes of misfiring at low rpms, as the engine is most sensitive to their condition at low rpms - all should be OEM and in good shape - I have had a bad cap/rotor/wires give me the same symptoms before - check all first - I don't see a fuel system component being an issue here, though I may be wrong

didn't know the coupes had turbos from the factory - nice combo - though I would prefer having a manual transmission hooked up to it

yes, it will take modding, and I don't think you can just swap gears - if the electrical side is identical - just swap electrical components and keep the housing (assuming it is in good shape) hatchbacks were still made in '87 - and an EA82 motor/tranny would be a good upgrade for it engine sideways - justy engine in strait - hatchback

A while back, a mechanic who has worked on soobs since the 360 was in prod. told me that they do stretch - will pro'lly replace mine soon as it is orig. and I don't want it to snap on me unexpectedly

argh - not good - me thinks ignore it if it is not causing any other problems, and find another ECU or a weber/spfi conversion if it is Good Luck!!

no, it is not stock - somebody had a LOT of custom work done - Subaru also never put a turbo in a sedan before 1985 either (however I may be wrong) it is a VERY nice car though - I would buy it if I could because it would be a lot of fun to drive - also EA81's with digidashes are extremely hard to find, and looking at the photos, it appears to have one very neat car

not good for your tranny to pull out of gear when driving w/o clutch downshifting can prematurely eat clutches - which is easier, a brake job or a clutch job? however, going down long grades it is best to leave the car in gear and use the engine as a brake (not pushing the accelerator) - doesn't harm the clutch finding sweet spots can be specific to cars - I don't know about Saturns as I haven't driven any use the clutch for ALL shifts - don't bother finding "sweet spots" - you will probably ruin the tranny before you do - sometimes they are hard enough to shift WITH the clutch - you won't save anything by not using it ABSOLUTELY put the clutch ALL THE WAY in for each shift - you will wear it out faster and grind gears if you don't you can save your clutch by putting the car in neutral at stoplights and letting out the clutch - and shifting back into gear when the light turns green - I usually watch the traffic that goes before me and shift into gear when their light turns yellow yes, driving with gears is more work, but it sure is a heck of a lot more fun!! (you also save about 15% of your engine's power) I am not sure how "reliable" a Saturn will be - I see a lot smoking VERY badly - but it is temporary, and it should last long enough for your soob to be working - check the timing belts on the Saturn - Saturns have interference heads, and if it snaps, you have valve pancakes - and despite their agressive advertising, they are not very safe cars I have not actually priced it as a whole, but I would expect the parts for an engine rebuild alone to be around $1000-$1500, though you may find less if you shop around

ignition pulse system would be related to the crank angle sensor on a SPFI/later model car - it has nothing to do with yours - even for the 1985 FI cars, it meant MAF sensor problem I looked your problem up in my 1985 FSM (factory service manual) - is your trouble code comming from the ECU or the dash ECS light? - it should be comming from the ECU O2 monitor light on the front - if it flashes the ECS light, it means your test connectors were not disconnected - if it is the O2 sensor light, then you probably have a bad ECU - there is a vehicle designation code 12 (auto 2WD 49-state) and code 15 (4-speed 2WD 49-state), but no code 14 the ECU is not critical to the operation of your car as it is a carbed car - I know some board members have unplugged theirs and prefer to run without one

That's how I did mine - getting ONLY the computer part - taking it all is the easy and less adventurous way out - be sure you have a good connection from the starter, a good crank angle sensor, and a good computer - the ECM MUST ABSOLUTELY be grounded VERY well too - I mean the body (loosten a screw on the ECM case and wrap bare wire around it, tighten and connect the other end to the negative post on the battery) - if it is off an auto, consiter the safety interlock switch too Here's a link you may find useful: http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 it has part of the FSM for a 1989 soob - including the part about troubleshooting the SPFI system