85Sub4WD

I know you should be able to get a set of "DL" (for lack of a better name) switches from www.halspartsandservice.com - he'll be reasonable about the price if you tell him what you are doing (I assume this is for your ultamite RX project (2dr sedan)) - I saw them in his junkyard - I may be able to get them for you next time I am up there, but it will be a while (like several months) EDIT: His website appears to be down, here is all his other contact info: Hal's Parts and Service, Inc. 3787 Hwy. 21-221 North Sparta, N.C. 28675 Phone: 336-372-6252 Fax: 336-372-7072 E-mail: EnglishAuto@skybest.com

don't forget the inner fender - that keeps water/debris out of the air box - which is actually located HIGHER than the carb intake is - I orig had a carb and switched it out to SPFI - that said I am going to cut the bottom off my airbox ditto on that - if you are going offroading or doing something else crazy - common sense says you should prep your car for it - that was your mistake

tis true that hydrogen is VERY volitile - big problem with storing it however, helium is a noble gas - meaning it is a chemically inert/stable compound - no combution possibility there (unless you start splitting atoms) there are no devices that use helium as a power source that is actually the way that power cells will eventually work for them to become available to the mass market - hydrogen tankes are like little bombs because hydrogen is so volitile - hydrogen is a special compound (only one proton) - the safest way to store it is to chemically bond it to something I did the same chemistry expierament!! you have a very good point in that burning it outright is not nearly as fuel efficent as using H2 power cells - you lose a lot of energy through heat - a power cell and a large electric motor would be far more efficent everyone needs to realize that any energy used to accelerate the car has to come from somewhere - the chemical potiential energy in "dino juice" is very high - not quite as high as H2, but high water has to be split for it to have any energy of value to us - don't expect to be able to drive on water - you must split it into O2 and H2, (two seperate tanks for max efficentcy - but you could use one and use surrounding O2) and then the energy that will result from combining them is what will propel your car (the liquid rockets on the space shuttle work by the same reaction) - the energy used to split the two will be greater than the amount of energy produced at the street (efficentcy is not perfect) - so of course it will take a lot of electricity to produce your fuel - whether or not it is actually more environmentally friendly is determined by the kind of power plant you are hooked up to - though theoretically you should be able to pull a lot more power out of your engine because the rxn between H2 and O2 is much more volitile and efficent sorry for the long schpiel

yep, the angle of it on the turn signal is slightly difft (elongated side points up) but the rest is the same - just out of curiosity - you mention a 1985 3-door - I thought those weren't made until '86? Do you mean hatch, is it really an '86, or is my brain on vacation? I think all dealer add-on cruise control systems are pretty much identical - not all have the same control setup, but I have seen the difft control modules from difft years, and they look identical (I have one off a 1988 I am keeping as a spare), as well as the wiring harnesses - the only difference seems to be the control button placement/setup - some DL's seem to have them where the electronic mirror controls go on other models

there is actually an anti-backfire valve - it is located near the charcoal canister I think that torxx is right - mine popped whenever I released the throttle - did not go BANG, just sort of sounded like an exhaust leak ( put, put, put ) I doubt that running without your ASV's should not cause any change in fuel economy - just emissions

one problem I see is that if you want to run your front/rear wipers seperately - I do that alot - also you may overload the front wiper control - it is not that beefy (I just had to pull apart and clean the contacts in mine a cpuple months ago) that said, the only way to know for sure is to TRY IT! (just have a spare front wiper control handy ) add-on intermitent wiper modules are easy to make/buy - and most are variable speed too - so your interval is adjustable

check the skinny wire going to the starter with a test light/multimeter, with one lead on it and the other on chassis ground - if the test light/multimeter indicates power flowing when ig. switch in start, bad starter, if not juice, bad switch me thinks starter given symptoms - my mom's van would not turn over - harassing the starter with a rather large monkey wrench convinced it otherwise - new/rebuilt starter sounds like a good idea if the starter is the problem - be careful to get a lifetime warrenty on a rebuilt starter (and save the paperwork) - they are not as good as OEM new - mine is 20 years old and still works very well

good possibility that that is the case - it was a dealer install, and maybe the dealer screwed up - that's big news - that's one reason I want an orig wiring diagram/dealer install manual double-check by seeing which movement causes it to accelerate - same switch, so it should do same thing for on/accel or set/coast I have an orig. buyer's guide from 1985 that has a beautiful pic of the control I can scan and email you (PM me - I would not be able to scan it till the weekend) - I would send a pic of mine, but it has rubbed off too! - gotta love that feature I assume you don't have digidash in the car? if so, then the digidash cruise system is COMPLETELY different, and if you have cruise on your turn signal, somebody has definately screwed with something

sounds like a bad carb to me too however, I would also recommend changing your gear oil if you haven't - I did mine and picked up 2-3 mpg - but mine was VERY dirty!! (city car)

roll forward is on/accell push in button is set/coast roll back for turning it off the control box is located somewhere above and behind the hood release lever that type of cruise was done as a dealer add-on, so you should be able to seperate the wiring harness for it *relatively* easily - I want to find a wiring diagram for it myself (for troubleshooting reasons) of note - it has an extra yellow wire that goes to the ig. coil Good Luck!!

There is a TINY hole on the throttle plate to allow air through after the car has warmed up, and the warm-up solenid thingy I can't remember the name of closes - if that is clogged, that may be your problem - cleaning the throttle body should fix it.

I have heard people mention the MAF sensor as the cause of similar problems - check codes on the ECU coil is also a possibility does it become excessively rich/lean when it dies? Shouldn't be too hard to get working right

Don't touch it except for parts - rolling a car does SERIOUS structual damage to it - it would be a REAL re-doer to get it to the point of being somewhat safe a car with no/blown engine is a great idea if you need one on the cheap - working on soobs is VERY easy - shouldn't be a problem

Glad someone posted this - I saw it a few minutes ago unfortunately, as a college student with very little money, I can do nothing!!!

Correct on the EGR light - comes on every 30k - means check EGR valve - I think there are a couple green connectors under the dash that you have to connect - can't remember - I converted to fuel injection, and I don't have my factory service manual (FSM) with me Great car, safe all 'round, but drives VERY well - I went on a trip at 70-75 mph yesterday and it handled like a champ. the Hitachi carb - prone to going with little warning - if it does go, put a Weber on it instead - better carb, common mod. to carbed soobs (so is converting to FI - but that is a lot more work) one other thing you should consiter is the re-seal on the front of the engine - that involves replacing cam/crank seals and ALL oil pump seals - not too hard to do if T-belt is off - will stop most all oil leaks - I try to do mine when they start leaking (took 128k to do so) - keeps the valve tick away (the infamous Tick of Death TOD) - TOD is not fatal to the engine, but it can drive you insane www.1stsubaruparts.com is used by many board members - stock most OEM parts (but does not have as much access to parts as a dealsership) - go OEM for ALL ignition components - if the plugs aren't NGK, they probably won't last too long BTW - change your gear oil for the tranny - it will need it, also Lucas Synthetic oil treatment is not needed if you are running synthetic oil - know from expierence - be cautious about using any additives in general as some can cause undesireable effects and viscosity changes to the oil STAY AWAY FROM FRAM FILTERS, OR ANYTHING ELSE FRAM FOR THAT MATTER - oil filter elements are known to disintegrate and kill engines

Timing belt EASY - getting to it not too bad either - even if you screw it up, as it is a non-interference engine, you won't hurt anything (you will just say a few profane words and do it again) you will need a variety of tools to get to it - more than I can think of off the top of my head I already had my radiator out at the time I serviced my timing belt (so I am not sure if you can do it in the car) - the only reason you would have to pull it is to get to the bolt that holds the crankshaft pulley on yes, it has to be tensioned, but more important is proper alignment of the cams and crank - tension (in my expierence) is relative there is something on the service manual part of this website that details timing belt replacement. The MOST IMPORTANT thing is to use a good quality belt - Gates or OEM - the belt itself is the most important aspect of the endevour I agree with Torx - sounds like a pump re-seal job is in order - no serviceable bearings on pump - but if it is sucking air, I could see that causing it to make noise - may have to replace the actual pump

I actually realized mine wasn't working at all today ... some innovative troubleshooting brought me to the conclusion that the "seat belt timer" cirucit was fried - I have a spare I/P so I will fix it... I took the actual tinkerbell apart and found that the rubber hangers for the chimes have worn away a bit, and it is hitting the sides of the module. Cutting the sides of the module off should solve the prob.

kinda - the 85-86 RX had a reg. 5-speed D/R 4WD in it with difft gearing - the 87+ had a FT4WD tranny ahhhh - I want one but I dont have the time/space/$ now!

The Subaru dealership here caught mine on fire - they poured oil down the preheat tube - haven't bothered to go back since not only are they crappy mechanics, they don't care that they are crappy mechanics They are also a multi-dealership - they push Hyundai's, Nissan's, and VW's. Subarus are at the bottom of the list for them

OMG - I have a 1985 GL wagon that does the same - maybe there is just something with '85 soob tinkerbells ...

GL-10 EA82's never had carbs - 1985 they were MPFI N/A (and only offered in 2WD - turbo had GL-10 style luxury and only 4WD, but not the name), later years they were SPFI or turbo never knew that - I am going to get some spares now b/c I will need them if anything ever happens to mine .... Zoombaru - GET THAT CAR - it looks really nice, and GL-10's are worth the effort for the trim alone - if the body is in good shape ....

I would replace the engine as a last resort - a bad thermostat gasket or coolant tubing can shoot antifreeze everywhere in much the same way as a blown head gasket - had it happen to me - dad was driving and freaked at first, after I popped the hood and had him rev the engine, I found the leak very quickly - $5 for the replacement hose unless it has been overheated in a VERY severe way, or unless there is coolant in the oil/oil in the coolant I would not think about an engine replacement 1) you are spending 2k needlessly - JDM or low-mileage engines in good shape 2) most of the same components on an engine are reused with an engine swap - you might spend 2k and still have all the probs you did before 3) oil leaks are common on these engines - and easy to repair - just do an engine re-seal, and you should be fine (probably half the cost of a replacement engine) - these engines are good for over 200k if treated decently - and I have seen them over 300k if treated well

I think you are right, we had the exact same prob with my '85 soob when it was carbed - sounds like fuel delivery to me too.

no subaru I know of has an LSD in the front (at least from the factory) my friend suggested the additive (a small bottle you add to the oil) to help with the shifting because it is not synchronizing well - supposedly the difference in the nature of the viscosity would help? - I don't know for sure though - I know about all "regular" oils - but I have never messed with an LSD diff, so I don't know about LSD diff oils yes, it would be a band-aid cure - but I don't have time/$ to rebuild a tranny

If you do convert, I would install another voltage gauge so you could make sure you don't fry anything if the alternator does fry. - or even wire up a voltage protection circuit - shouldn't be too hard to do I say get it and do the work - granted I converted to SPFI (before the manual came out!!) - but hair grows back (usually) I am studying Electrical Engineering (undergrad) - so I may just be a little overexuberant when it comes to this sort of thing