85Sub4WD

How does your oil pressure look? You really do need a timing light to do it right - and then still a little piddling - just guessing can still land you WAY off - timing can be way off and an engine run I am assuming it is FI as it is an 1988 - check your vacuum lines and all gaskets/seals that are under vacuum (basically everything on the intake after the MAF sensor) - it sounds like you may also have a bad vacuum leak

is the smoke coming from under the hood or from the tailpipe? I know the schematic, and don't think there are any internal seals in the turbo for coolant if it is smoking out the tailpipe I think it is probably a blown HG or cracked head if it is smoking from under the hood, I am thinking it is burning off coolant residue from the leak just guesses, but I think you deserve a response

Generally Speaking: EA81 - gear driven cam - more reliable, more low-end torque, not as high reving EA82 - T-belt driven cams - more reving potential, more high-end speed torque, can do 5,000rpms all day Modifications can make exceptions to all above statements - both engines are pretty tuneable, but if your want to milk every hp per cc displacement, the EA82 is your best bet. EA82 turbos crack heads, other don't gen 1 cars are through 1979 for all cars except Brats (through '81?) - older, more traditional design I can't remember exactly what makes a gen 2; but I do know the engine designations for the difft cars EA71 - 197?-1987 - 1.6L OHV EA81 - 1980-1984 - 1.8L OHV (used thru 1987 on all Brats and Hatchbacks) EA82 - 1985-1994 - 1.8L OHC

Breathing won't give you more than about 5-7hp - tops - but it will make you louder. (turboed cars are an exception) The only way to really increase power it to convert to a turbo (115 stock hp) - would require swapping engines - or to drop an EJ22 engine in (around 130hp stock, but moddable) - and you would have to make/buy an adaptor plate. Either option would require a LOT of modding, esp. electrical work and you could tear up your tranny quick if you are not careful. ESPECIALLY if it is an automatic. The way to beat a honda is to outmaneuver them - the handeling on them sucks, even with a modded suspension. An EA82 in decent condition with proper inflation (for me that is 31psi front and rear) can out do a honda on curves anyday. Most riceburners I have seen use an auto. tranny - that will make anything slow.

maybe someone installed an incorrect bulb

it sounds like your front brake discs are warped, they need to be "turned" by a shop, and new brake pads installed - if they tell you you need to replace your discs, get ones of good quality (OEM or top-of-the-line name brand) cheap rotors will warp VERY easily, and are NOT good they typically warp when they get wet when hot - actually it is a fairly common problem on all cars

Basically - the GL-10 also had much nicer upholstry and other frills - it was offered in a conventional automatic only some years, full-time 4WD others; some are turbo - it is actually very different from the Loyale for most all years it was made the GL had a different transmission (the more reliable dual-range) and the FI system on the Loyale and GL are identical - I have an FI computer on my car now from a 1992 Loyale the actual body for all of the EA82 wagons are identical - the difference is all in the options

there are no "innie" bolts on the transmission - you check with the dipstick and that checks both fluids (well, there is only ONE fluid) look in ANY manual for your car, and it will tell you that

umm - my 1985 FSM - it shows the front tranny and diff sharing the same fluid for the MT - AT they are seperate - this is for 4WD single and dual range - also the bolts you are refering to are supposed to be for retaining the shifting forks - removing them is not a good idea the drain is supposed to be located in the center bottom of the case - for both front diff and tranny - you are supposed to fill through the dipstick hole - the seperate holes (check and drain) are for AT only what the whine sounds like is a bad center bearing or a wheel bearing - is it comming from one side or the other? raise the car and put it into gear, and 4WD (all four wheels should be off the ground - go around with a stethoscope (with pointer on the end) and listen to each of the wheel bearings and the center bearing

Happy B-day and I hope there are many more to come!

It has a 1100cc flat four, but no 4WD - that was not offered until 1975

honestly, I don't see anything in the pictures that makes me worry about your underside; it may be bent, but it looks like it is still structurally strong you can't just drop in an EA81 D/R - don't know what kind of mods it would require, but I know it would be VERY extensive - starter mounting, etc is completely difft.

I agree that it would be neat, but unrealistic to bring the EA82 back - in reality, it is not a very efficent motor stock, and even with mods, hp per cc is not the best (only 2 valves per cylinder) - structurally, it is not very good in side impact crashes, and it would not "mate" well with today's cars in an accident An EJ drivetrain would not fit in the car reasonably - I would prefer to stick with the EA series wheels and all That said, they are great cars, and I love mine No, I would not touch a re-introduced Justy - three cylinders is not enough - the car would not be safe in today's traffic; I'd worry about it more than an EA wagon - service on it would be a nightmare, because of how the engine is mounted

Check to make sure none of the AT fluid lines have been crimped either

If it has a pan, it is carbed - fuel injection cars have something on the ducting saying that they are FI - carb was still available in 1987 - actually that was the last year it was available in the US I guess the easiest way is the air filter - giant squished dougnut; carb - anything else; FI

One funky thing I know about the FF-1 is the "inboard" front brakes (drum, of course) - they are located on the side of the transmission instead of near the wheels, also it uses torsion bars for the front suspension as well as the rear suspension. thanks for the pics moosens

yes, you can ignore them - as long as the car you are putting it in doesn't have an AT

Interesting - I did not know that - I'll remember it the next time I do my clutch

All cars with an automatic transmission had the cooler. no, not really, but it would make a great engine oil cooler if you could somehow get the tubing right That may be because you live in Alaska my car still runs them most of the time, with a special copper radiator (copper gives better heat dissipation)

the brat has a completely different body from the wagon of that year - not compatible, but could use it as a guide there are two types of bumpers on the EA82 wagon - the old type is trash and there for show - I think it is on 86 and earlier cars - the newer one is much sturdier you can tell by looking at your front turn signals - if they are recessed then it is newer type, if they sit right on the front of the bumper, it is the older type given what I can see in one of your pictures, I think you have the older type bumper - you at least have the older-type marker lights (whole side yellow)

looks restoreable - I think the interior is workable given the condition of everything else - I would not let trim parts discourage me looks like it was painted red at some point - look at the paint flaking off do you know what engine you have in it? 1400 or 1600?

you are right that it is supposed to have the high high-idle start-up, and that you have to depress the accelerator durring warm-up - it is written on a label on the driver's side door - the reason is that the Y-pipe will overheat if it is left at that high idle to warm up

I agree that a GL with a D/R tranny is a more reliable option than a pushbutton 4WD job - mine is D/R and I love it - shifting in/out of 4WD is not hard on the D/R trannies either and you know you are in 4WD when you are in 4WD b/c of lever position - no clutch needed to shift in/out either - just pull the lever (clutch needed for shifting into low range) if you spill coffee on your gearshift, you won't have trouble with 4WD you would just have to double-check that it was FI if it was made before 1988 - all 1985 4WD cars were originally carbed or turboed

you already have a fuel return tube built-into the car - it is the small tube coming out of the top of the carb bowl

real nice car - my interior is blue (though slightly different), and I like it (personally I think it is the best color) does your radio work? how about the casette?