85Sub4WD

not only that, but if you have to do a clutch, you can have the spare turned while your car is still operational, allowing a clutch change with limited downtime spare parts are a GOOD thing

Probably yes, "rebuilt" can mean everything to sprayed with compressed air to new aftermarket modules (which perform similarly to the OEM ones, but not necc. the same), generally aftermarket stuff has poorer quality electronics too. - not sure if it is worth the $ I just get one (or two) out of a JY when I need one - much cheaper, and a good chance it works fine - usually they don't go bad, but I keep a spare anyway.

The greater leakage has to do with the cam/crank seals (not the alum block) - it is the fact that the oil is in more contact with them b/c it flows down due to gravity, and that means it will probably come in contact with the seals, because the valvetrain is mounted sideways - more of a problem with pre-EJ (Legacy) engines, and subaru has pretty much solved it at this point - but it plagued the EA82 (loyale and late 80's L-car engine) - actually consumption is not as much a problem as one might think with normal operation - but if the car sits for a while (week or more), the oil will find the cylinders, and send a smoke signal at startup (similar to the symptoms of worn valve seals in older V-8's) - once again, more of a problem with the older engines - Subaru has solved these problems with improved design all this is really proof that Subaru is more on top of its game now than ever before, as even oil leakage is not really a problem anymore

Short answer - no - but it should not be a very hard conversion to do I know it will bolt right up to the side-mounted starter bellhousing on that engine you are getting - I think the driveshafts for the front end should bolt-up too - I think you will have to grab the driveshaft (must be off a 4WD D/R hatchback) and probably the 4WD linkage/shift linkage as well - clutch setup may be different too - but it is possible, with relatively little difficulty - it you have your driveshaft shortened at a custom place, you may be able to put a 5 speed D/R in - better economy - whatever swap you do, make sure the rear diff ratios for the tranny you are putting is correct (same for both cars) you will need to swap the diff too if it is a difft ratio - probably best to just swap them both

OK - I was not sure about the difference on the intake - I saw that tidbit posted on a member's webpage - the newer EA71 engines are rare enough on the east coast that I have never seen one I did think that the flywheel cover/bellhousing would swap, but I guess I am wrong I wonder if he should not keep that in case he wants a 4WD D/R tranny - that would be a really sweet setup

A lot of patience - I know that the engine should (maybe) fit (I know the 2.2L (EJ22) does) The tranny may be a different story - I know your ratios will be WAY off b/c the EA82 cars have 13" wheels - and EJ20T's have something like 15" - you will need to swap your rear diff too tranny size will be very different - I don't know if it will fit without widening something It is probably better to try it in an EA82 car than an EA81 b/c there would be a LOT more room for the engine/tranny possible yes, but it will require a LOT of work

Another ECU won't help - the ECU's for all Loyales are the same - the grounding on one ECU pin (can't remember which one) determines whether it is AT/MT the site above has an FSM for the 1989 on it, and that is really identical to yours I know the downloads from there tend to be slow so you might try http://www.finleyweb.net/default.asp?id=142 if you have trouble - they both have the same manual

Possibly - I would make sure you are using a heavy enough oil in warm weather - if your pump seals are starting to go maybe 15w-40 is a good idea in warm weather What you are describing sounds like adjustment issues - probably your choke is too far open, or you have an idle that is too rich - timing is yet another possiblilty - I had to adjust the carb and timing once a month to keep my car in top shape - why I converted to SPFI

When I meant AWD stickshift, I meant in a small SUV package, many performance cars are looking at if not going to the AWD-stick design b/c of the STI Quattro is simply not as rugged as a Subaru - the underbody is completely different The basic difference between Subaru's system and everybody else's is that most other manufacturers use a system which employs the brakes to reroute torque - Subaru uses a mechanism which rerouts power, and is therefore more efficent Saab's flat four engine is a rebadged Subaru engine - just an FYI GM owns 20% of Subaru - pretty much all of Saab - they can't dictate Subaru's designs, but they can get rights to their stuff How many more Soob cars has that happened on than other manufacturers? I know of I-4's doing the same thing - as well as V-8's or any other engine. All fuel injected cars now use a highly pressureized fuel system, as well as similar/same type injectors - so the risk of one getting stuck is the same. In addition to that, there is a greater chance of a vertically-mounted engine having a hydrolocking problem because in a flat design the gas should leak out of the valves before it completely filled the cylinder, as the valves are mounted sideways too. I am just saying that the boxer engine is no more suceptable to this kind of damage than any other engine - in fact probably less. The one big disadvantage to a flat-four design is oil consumption and leakage.

darn, oh well - I'll hope I am lucky and can use the heads off the N/A motor Here is a link to the diagram to figure out which gen head you have: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/diagrams/EA82heads.jpg

I forgot to mention that - I think most of the members could fill a thread talking about the advantages of the motor alone. And that is ONLY Subaru. Heat dissapation, rpm capeability, fuel economy, reliability, serviceability, lower center of gravity (better handeling) ....

Do the gen III have the same cracking issues? I am thinking about installing a MPFI n/a setup (XT 87-later) at some point, and I was wondering, just in case I have trouble finding MPFI heads

I don't mess with turbos much (well really not at all) - but given the year of your car (1989), you may have the latest series of heads, which are least prone to cracking, so you will probably be OK The only way to find out is to pull 'em BTW - there is a graphic somewhere in the other info section on this page that shows how to tell the difft head stages apart - stage III should have the EA82 in a box on the bottom of the head near the exhaust pipe if I am correct ...

They still have the best AWD system on the planet - other companies offer AWD - but their systems are about a decade behind Subaru's - just put them on a slick surface and watch - most do not have an adiquate means of channeling the engine's power and getting out of slippery situations the biggest thing I see is that Subaru has maintained a high quality drive train with reliable transmissions - I have yet to see many (if any) match the overall drivetrain reliability (I have seen many trannies burnt-up) - Subaru is also the only manufacturer offering a manual transmission AWD car right now - rest of the manufacturers make theirs available only as automatics - which are inherently less reliable Ford's 4WD/AWD system uses a chain to connect the front and rear diffs - think how reliable that is BTW - FWD means Front Wheel Drive - that is nothing radical Subaru has been offering AWD or (Full-Time 4WD (FT4WD) as it was called then) since 1987/1988 on the L-cars - only difference is that the legacy has a LSD center differential and the L-cars have to be locked manually when needed

yes, you should remove it yes, it is the big cogged thingo - I can't remember how many bolts hold it in - but they are all at the center of it woo hoo - post 500

Change your gear lube first - your synchros are messed up - if your clutch is in and properly adjusted, there is no connection between your tranny and flywheel - actually your flywheel has little to do with your shifts I usually shift mine at about 3-4k rpms, the SR and DR trannies are the same save the input shaft - (looked at FSM)

I think they vary with adjustment of the mechanism - there are several different versions of carbs for the EA82 - I think each model year is slightly different and then beyond that there is a difference in 2WD vs. 4WD and auto vs manual tranny plus you are int'l, so it probably has a different carb alltogether- my secondary never opened at idle - if you look at the back of the carb on the side opposite the throttle cable, you can see the vacuum actuator for the secondary throttle

A better solution would be to grab an intake off an EA81/late EA71 out of the JY - heck, even an EA82 manifold will fit - the coolant hose is routed differently tho. Fabricating something out of your intake would be VERY hard to do as there are coolant passages in it - a JY bolt-on is your easiest & most reasonable solution.

Beautiful car - does anyone know if the lugs are 4X140 yet??

You guys forgot about the Anti-Backfire valve on the fender wall - there is also a coasting bypass system on the 1980 engines - I could see either one being a likely cause.

You may be still able to use it if you transfer the bellhousing onto it from your old motor. I don't know about intake ...

Actually - I had identical probs, and my carb turned out to have 1/4'' of sludge in the bottom of it - never did get it to run right after that In my expierence, the shape of a carb has fairly little to do with how its been driven, and more to do with the gas that has been run through it - with the exception of a carb that is at WOT a lot I think that is a definate possibility too

That thing will draw power regardless of the alt. it is hooked up to - the bigger alt just drags more off the engine - a lovely vicious cycle isn't it - and you VERY quickly reach the point of dimishing returns Cut the bottom of your airbox off and you will see a greater difference than if you were to install that piece of crap I can relate

No - you don't have to pull the cylinder head, though it is prolly better if you do I had to REDO a helicoil in my head that some A** HOLE screwed up - and he even used an OFF-BRAND one that was pure crap - shot a spark plug out of the engine on that cylinder :eek: anyway - use some HEAVY grease - helps with cutting and will catch metal shards - especially put it on the 4 wells in the helicoil tap and in the hole - BE VERY CAREFUL!!! - make sure you have cleaned ALL the grease away before you try to install the helicoil, or else it will come out at your next spark plug change I vote with the crowd - either a bad connection inside the disty, or way too much slop in the bearing Good Luck!!

Absolutley right - that is no more than an A/C fan hooked up to the intake - not worth the power it is consuming to run The only supercharger I have heard that does anything is one off an early MR2 - it is belt driven, so you would have to deal with that headache. If you want performance, go turbo or XT6 engine - they are the best (and pretty much only) ways to REALLY increase HP.