85Sub4WD

Only under load - so you the car would have to be moving - vacuum actually opens the second barrel (it increases with load).

Um... that makes me think a very dirty exhaust getting cleaned out - or bad MAF sensor/bad O2 sensor - check for trouble codes, they are explained somewhere in this website - don't know how different they are for int'l cars

Makes me think bad brake sending unit - check the floats in the brake fluid resivouir

yeah - we had a similar prob. with a mouse building nest in the evap. core - I may be wrong - but I think there is a TSB on mice making nests in the HVAC system

OK - I think the lifters are stuck - quiet when cold b/c they were stuck in the proper position for when the engine is cold? I dunno - Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) and reving 4,500-5,000 rpms should fix the problem - otherwise, daily driving will Good Luck!

Would not doubt stuck lifters DO NOT PUT DIESEL IN YOUR CRANKCASE - it is not that clean and there is a VERY good chance it will explode use a quart of MMO or equiv to do the proceedure I think that an oil pump reseal is your best bet - make sure you don't have a leak Sorry - MMO = Marvel Mystery Oil

It is just as easy to disconnect the blue wire running to the solenoid

Ditto on that - they suck, but look cool - had 'em the "Rally" aluminum alloy wheels are what I switched to - they look good, and they are OEM quality - improved my handeling too - less rotating mass - not had any trouble with balence either

I should have thought of that .... where is it located anyway in case mine blows?

If it is not a fuse, then the blower motor is shot or unplugged - look above the kickpanel on the passenger side - it is not hard to get to at all

My bet is it has a really light oil in it - like 0w or 5w something and it is thick enough at startup to prevent the clatter, then when it warms up, the oil thins, and the pressure drops If you have the correct oil then ... oil pump reseal

Just be sure you don't let anything fall down the throat!! I agree with Snowman - orange sealer is a BAD omen - it means someone tried to rebuild the carb, and failed

Geez - If I had before and after pics of my car to post - mine's an 85 N/A wagon - it was totaled, and in FAR worse shape than that and I fixed it - the front main support can be cut off and welded on easily - and all the rest of the body work is not to hard either FIX IT

the thing that interests me most in the JDM/Euro turbos is the oil cooler - I would not mind having one on my N/A car

Pro'lly the Euro - they have the euro body and controls - why not the engine? Anyway, the Japanese get the most powerful soobs period anyway - if anything was ever turboed - they got it

I know you can on older V-8 cars, but I would not try it on a soob b/c there is a lot of fluctuation in any vacuum gague connected (only 4 cylinders) besides, a timing light MUCH more direct and accurate - vacuum gagues are great for diagnosing issues - a bad carb will screw around with a vacuum guage - been there, done that He said the car was having trouble moving when he got it. Besides, I had to adjust my timing monthly with a carb. My suggestion on the timing was just to rule out the cheapest possibility first

don't know - but it does not add nearly as much pressure as a turbo - so I would guess not much (or at least not worth the $ they are asking)

it would probably be best to put this post in the subaru marketplace - I know http://www.1stsubaruparts.com has a wide variety of parts, but I don't know if they go back that far - sorry I can't help you find the parts, but I wish you luck!!

75w-90 API GL-5 (hypoid) gear oil is what should go in the front manual transmission gearbox, and the rear diff I think the spec interval is 60k, but you can let it slide a little

ditto - a welder is NOT something you want to use around flammable compounds - namely anything that is oil in nature. JB weld is not the best thing in the world - welding is the "right" way to fix it - but you must remove the oil pan and COMPLETLEY degrease it

Yes, you will. - They are cheap and you will need if for your periodical tune-up anyway. that sounds a lot like a bad carb to me - been there, done that :-\ don't suspect it though until you have ruled out timing check plugs and wires too

what kind of shape is the govenor in? if the govenor is frozen, that could be your problem Generally speaking - check the condition of what it is meshing with that is a really weird problem alright

double-check your timing - should be about 8 drgrees BTDC there is a 50/50 chance it is a bad disty advance or carb you can repair a disty advance easily - all you need is freash grease - take it apart and clean it - make sure it operates smoothly, grease and reassemble it

The heads are non-interference, so engine rotation is not an indication of a good or bad T-belt. Also the spec'd t-belt change interval is every 60k - so a snapped T-belt sounds likely - pull the disty cap off and crank - if the rotor rotates, then your t-belts are pro'lly good - usually the t-belt that goes on that side is the 1st to fail the Hitachi - crappy carb could also be the problem - had a carb fail on me like that in 95-degree weather a mile and a half from home - sometime around then I decided to convert to SPFI at my next oppertunity check for an ignition pulse with a timing light - that will give you a fairly definate yes/no on the ignition side of things - pull the plugs and check them too try cranking it and holding the choke closed with something - if it starts it will buck a lot - but it will move when was the last time the fuel pump/filter were replaced - failure of them would explain the bucking

How did you do that?