85Sub4WD

NOT ON AN 85 OR 86 - The 1985 and 1986 models have a COMPLETELY different control layout from later ones - his battery drain is coming from something other than the lights, b/c the switch system is a bit more comprehensive on those cars, and the headlights/markerlights are controlled by a switch on the dash in the same place as the late model hazard lights. In turn, the hazard switch is on the top of the steering column, where the parking light switch is on later cars. You probably blew a fuse - check them first, grounds/senders second. That is the classic TOD (tick of death) - probably either indadiquate oil pressure, too light an oil (10w-30 is proper for these engines), or just breaking in new engine/engine that has sat for a while. You probably did mess up with the pedal box. The inhibitor switch circuits are only engaged when the ignition is on - leave them spliced. However - make sure that your headlight switch is in the "Off" position, if it is too far to the left, your marker lights will be on.

true, I did not say anything about modding the possibilites with these engines are endless

Check to make sure that you can bolt in whatever features your GL has - like power locks and such - you will probably need to do some wiring to make it work, but the actual door will fit fine.

Yeah, I have heard that too many times - but have never tried it. Remember that aluminium is like butter under a drill bit - one slip and you will have a leaky seal for life. I would probably soak it in Liquid Wrench or some other penatrent - I don't like the idea of drilling around something that delicate.

The XT6 looks a lot like a regular XT on the outside, save trim differences (gigantic decals saying XT-6), but it is the only real crossover to the EJ design body from an EA design body - it has 5-lug wheels, beefier brakes and suspension, and an electronically controlled power steering system. However, the overall drivetrain is still that of an EA series car. Many people use XT6 parts to mount 5-lug wheels on their EA car. I have seen them in JYs and I think the hood is longer than the regular XT to accomidate the additional engine size - but I don't have numbers to back that up. The XT6's are rare and desireable, there was a front wheel drive and a single-range full-time four wheel drive available - the FT4WD had an air suspension standard. Honestly, I really do not know what you got in europe, but I would assume that no Leone 2.2L turbos were produced over there because an EJ series motor will not mate with an EA series transmission without an adaptor plate, and an EJ series transmission will not fit in a Leone/varient without pretty extensive moding. I know there were smaller displacement engines available in the Leone (I think a 1.6L was available) but that may have been in an earlier body design. Generally, the US gets the biggest engines any manufacturer offers b/c gas is cheap over here, and power is consitered more important than fuel economy.

I know on N/A motors, a vacuum leak comes to mind - check for anything that could allow unmetered air into the system.

Yes, that is probably the easiest way, though whatever you do, it won't look stock, and you will have trouble getting it through emissions. I am also not sure if the power gain is as great as with SPFI - and parts will be harder to find in the future - though doing other mods with it would be easier.

The EA82 turbo system and heads use a distribuitor (well, crank angle sensor) - in fact the stock one for carbed cars will bolt on. It's the EJ22 cars that don't have distys.

better SPFI doner car - MPFI system NA or turbo - uses different heads the power gain running MPFI is not great enough to warent the swap

They'll total it - been there twice with the same car! Hal's Parts and Service ( www.halspartsandservice.com ) is not in Virginia, but in Spara, NC so he's close. He runs a Soob-only service/parts place, and he is great to work with. Sorry to hear about it - amazing how much damage the Alero took from the impact - and I saw an ad from GM last night advertizing the safety of their cars Hope all goes well - trust me, you can do the repairs, soobs are easy to bolt/unbolt stuff on - been there. My mom obliterated some car that pulled out the wrong way on her when she was going 45mph, had to have front frame (mounting for headlights and other crap) cut off and another welded on. That was a pain (had to go to shop), but if you only have panels damaged, don't worry.

If you were to put a 4-barrel carb on, I would use an MPFI intake and heads, you have one port per cylinder, and one barrel per cylinder (MPFI manifolds also have better flow volume - I do see an advantage there, though I still think a 4-barrel is to big would require a LOT of mods tho ...

Don't forget to get the plastic retainers for them too - and remove the caps before getting any wheel work done or else the shop will damage them and break the plastic retainers - been there, done that

Mine are 20 years old, and in fairly rough shape, but they still do their job. I have thought about running without them, but I have seen a oil pump pully bent because of running w/o covers and a rock getting in there - so I feel that there should be something there to protect the belts. Realize they are covers - they don't have to be pretty, they just have to cover the belts.

I think the ones in the head are the only ones (because I have not seen others on the block) I may be wrong tho.

I know there were no factory 2.3L turbo Loyales in the US for several reasons, first I will assume you mean 2.2L - Subaru never made 2.3L engine to my knowledge - The EJ series engine was never installed in the Loyales in the US - only the EA82 - also the ONLY year for a turbo Loyale is 1990 - after that no more EA82T's - I think the max hp for the later series EA82T turbo engines was 115 stock hp, and 134 ft-lb torque - I think euro Leones had around 130hp stock - but I don't know for sure - I just know you had an oil cooler There was a 2.7 liter engine (ER27) used in XT6 cars - it is rare, and was never factory turbocharged in the US - it puts out 145hp and 156ft-lb torque. Mechanically, it is very similar to the EA82 engine, just with two additional cylinders. - I know it has been custom turbocharged, but I have little expierence with this engine, so I can't help you on that. There was also a Legacy turbo 2.2L - EJ22T? that was made from 1991-1994 which produced 160 hp and 181 ft-lb torque. The EA81T puts out 95hp and 123ft-lb torque stock Check this url for more info http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/specs/general/specyears.html

Welcome to Hitachi carb world - that's how mine went - I converted to SPFI and I am NOT looking back. Another possibility is that your T-belt slipped a tooth (very unusual) or your timing is off (more common) I would also replace your t-stat with an OEM 180 - degree one The exhaust noise is probably caused by the ASV valves - those can be plugged.

My battery was 5+ years old when it blew (when I say that I mean it shot acid ALL over under my hood - I now have to do some serious repainting). Given my battery's age it may have already been on its way out - and that may have been why it reacted so violently. The 18 volts was the straw that broke the camel's back.

What car was that? my mom used to have a 1972 Datsun 510 wagon (L16 engine) - nice car - blew a head gasket; my dad started, but never finished replacing it! Realistically speaking - the 1.8L Soob engine cannot handle a 4-barrel carb. - the L20B engine is completely different from the EA81/EA82 and the L series can handle a LOT of power - not that the EA engines can't - but there is a definate difference in displacement and design - the L's have a 5 main bearing bottom end.

I recently blew up my battery after my alt. shot 18 volts for a period of about 1/2 an hour - I was in a remote area, and could not pull over, so I had the pleasure of going down a mountain at 35mph in 5th gear with an 18-wheeler on my tail Replace your alt. ASAP before you grenade your battery.

Generally Speaking: EA82 = more power EA81 = more reliability Yes, you can mod both engines, but you can drag more power out of the EA82 in stock form than the EA81 - especially if turbocharged If I was going offroading - I would choose an EA81 If I was racing/rallying - I would choose an EA82 The EA82 can rev up to 6,000 rpms without any problem as it has timing belts. (OHC engines do better at high rpms) I would not try that in an EA81, reguardless of the spec'd redline because pushrod engines do not do as well at high speed. It's main strength is that it hits its peak torque and hp at a low rpm.

Many - but more to your tranny than to you. - I would be worried about ripping my torque converter to shreads, not to mention overheating. Best way to smoke the competition - convert to stick. Autos are not designed/made for/ideal for dragging - notice most all cars have better 0-60 times if they are a manual, rather than an auto - even the same car. BTW an auto tranny takes away 10-15 hp b/c of the inherent inefficentcies in it.

I actually use needle nose or lineman's pliers for the job and put them in that groove designed for the special tool - works great.

Um, have you tried to "turn" the pistons in yet? You will have to swing the caliper back, and remove the pads. Look at the piston - use SOMETHING to turn it clockwise while pushing in HARD - that should do it - and if you are going to bleed your brakes later anyway, open the bleeder screw - makes the job easier. Is your emergency on? It actuates the front wheels. (mechanism reason for brake pistons needed to be turned)

Um - if you mean upshifting/downshifting when you want to, you can already do that by putting it in 1 and shifting to 2 when you want to, and then to 3 when you want to and vice-versa - ALL manual and automatic transmissions are different - in the case for Chevy, they probably did not allow you to select certain gears manually (Subaru already does) - but whatever you do to it, you will still have the same planetarty gear box (NOT like a stickshift's mechanism). If you are curious about the actual mechanical mechanisms, I urge you to find some diagram/pictures of the two trannies - they are quite different and interesting designs. I am wondering if you don't have a slipping transmission band - I would have that checked, because that could explain the freewheeling in 3rd. Another possibility is a burnt-out clutch. (yes autos have multiple clutches embedded inside them) Convert to 5-speed at the earliest oppertunity, I have never seen an Auto by ANY manufacturer of ANY age that I liked - the stickshift is inherently more reliable and economical because when you fully engage a gear you lock the engine through the gear reduction to your wheels and clutches are an infrequent replacement if driven properly (I've seen clutches last longer than auto trannies) - some autos can come close to matching a manual's fuel economy - but not to beating it. I guess what bugs me is that domestic manufacturers and most imports have stopped offering manual transmissions in the US on some or all car models. I guess we Americans are lazy, but it is rather annoying because I hate the lack of control one deals with when driving an automatic.

Yes, you can splice it a zillion places, and then if the tranny had a neutral start switch on it, you could use that to control the inhibitor.