85Sub4WD

Adjust Your Timing To 20 Degrees Before Top Dead Center. The Idle Air Screw Will Also Need Adjustment. Did you properly bypass/connect the neutral and starter switches?

Um, you mean a 1986 GL-10 turbo or a GL turbo - there was no GL-10 turbo for 1985 - all turbos has GL-10 trim, save the nameplates. 1986 model year was the debut of the GL-10 Turbo If you are swapping trannies and you want to stick with an auto, go with a 4-speed. Probably more reliable, and much better for highway cruising. Less work than a switch to a manual, but you will have to change your CV axles. A manual tranny is still your best choice, but autos are more convienent.

There is a lot of info on the mod in the repair manual on this site.

your local PAP junkyard I think an item item like that should be about $10 to $20 in good working condition - but I am a fierce negotiator BTW - You realize you can clean them right? Just spray it out with something caustic and check for freedom of movement - work like new afterwards If the solenoid is bad, then you have to replace it.

I know I am not the only person wondering this - How much was left of the Dakota after the accident??

I have a question that you all should be able to answer - can one take a 5 - speed FT4WD transfer mechanism and put it on a D/R 5 - speed tranny? I think all the 5 - speed FT4WD trannies use a 3.7:1 ratio for the front diff, and I want to keep my 3.9:1 ratio. I posted a question on the subject, and was told that the front diffs are incompatable, however according to both FSM's I looked in, the only difference is in the crown gear (aside from the transfer shaft and rear mechanism). Is it worth a try? I want to make it a FT4WD D/R with all the gear ratios for the 5 - speed D/R tranny.

So have I actually, for the $2000 when my car was totaled off last time (idiot pulled out wrong way in front of my mom) I got all the front end parts, and they did all of the MAJOR body work for me (they were a tow, junk, and body work operation), towed it to and from their shop and it took me all of about two weeks to repair, once I got underway. I was pretty pleased with it all and all. It is getting ahold of them that is the hard part.

Clean it well, I would shoot a little heavy weight oil in it to prevent corrosion - if it has plastic endcaps I may not - but I have an aftermarket all-copper radiator. Don't use WD-40 as it can actually promote rust. And yes, seal your endcaps.

I think that is exactally what happened (heck, its Subaru), but I don't have access to any info other than general parameters. WJM might be able to check if you PM him.

Hope you get accepted to college - its a different world (wait, wasn't that a TV show?) Anyway, I have had similar expierences, you just have to talk to the guy's face and tell him what he is losing, if that does not work, then tell him you really don't care if he loses the money either. Maybe I am a bit cutthroat but I get by usually it does not get that bad around here, but I do have to be a bit persuasive I hate jerky JY owners too, don't feel bad about being jerky to them too.

Ditto on that, but check to make sure all your castle nuts are tight before delving into the world of replacing wheel bearings.

Ya know, I think that is what it all boils down to in the end .... I would not want to try to get that stuff - I bet milking the mouse would be harder than yanking the bolt out with your teeth My suggestion would be to drill them out given their location, or get a REALLY good pair of vise-grips, cinch them down REALLY tight, and crank them out. When you can't use heat, use force.

Many japanese cars use the same companies to supply the electronics, so they might be the same. EA81T and early EA82T parts look the same spec wise - should work - throw on a JY early EA82 sensor and see if that fixes it.

I have used purolator filters for years and so have most of the people I know - never had a problem nor heard of one. Sometimes cheaper than Fram to boot! The only other ones I would consiter using are WIX and Mobil 1. - They are VERY high quality, but expensive.

Not just that my friend, some used bolt sizes that were neither metric nor SAE - but that witworth/wintworth whatever size refered to earlier. Ditto on that - I have to give them credit for their handeling.

I use good - old 3-in-one for moderately seized, and a combination of that and soaking in liquid wrench for very seized.

If I had to guess on the info you have provided, I would say that it is a weaping camshaft seal - don't worry unless you get an oil pressure drop or you start using fluid. If it is power steering fluid, then the seals need to be redone. Subarus are known for having small oil leaks, don't worry over it.

As I recall, the switch for the dash light is in the latch/lock assembly (I know that's how it is on wagons) remove the trim on the trunk door and look in there. Otherwise it is a little pushbutton-style switch somewhere around the perimeter of the trunk door. Hope this helps!

You're right - I know he has a top - center starter b/c he has a 1980 hatch - that engine won't bolt in b/c the starter is on the side - I wonder if the bellhousings are interchangeable? - I bet his intake manifold won't work either b/c the late EA71's used a wider one, like the EA81 and EA82 engines.

It should be bolt-on assuming it is of the same/similar year. However there were more options and different versions of JD cars - so I cannot say yes for sure - at most the difference would be in things like mounting brackets.

I am not aware of any aftermarket airboxes either - though I know people have stripped most all of the emissions stuff and put an SPFI intake duct and airbox - don't know how that affected performance. It would not be a bolt-on conversion tho

I feel bad no one has posted yet - you will have to repack your front wheel bearings when you do it - that is what is most important as far as what you should grease - !remember to keep grease away from all brake hardware! I know axles can be a real pain to get out, but I have not yet had to change one myself

The turbo cars have a higher (faster) first gear, and slightly lower (more gear reduction) upper gears than the 5-speed D/R - that's compairing total gear reduction with a stock differential and transmission in both cars. If your are talking a N/A car, then I am pretty sure the ratios are identical.

Actually, it is MUCH more complex than that - back in the day (sometime around the 60's or 70's I don't remember when). The British parliament mandated that a certain percentage of the insulation used in electrical wires be natural rubber. Natural rubber decomposes over time, so many British cars I have come across have had their wiring harnesses literally decay - a family friend had his 1970's Triumph - all stock - burn up half his house and all of his garage when the wiring harness bit the dust and shorted out - Lucas = BAD newer (80's and later) Brititsh cars don't have this problem b/c everyone realized that natural rubber is a bad idea for electrical wires, but there are still cars out there - and our friend was living in Florida at the time, so the problem of the wires decaying was only perpetuated by the climate - I don't doubt that if the car was kept in a very low humidity environment that the wiring would last longer, but that is not realistic - as you are in Canada, you have a low humidity environment naturally - here in the US South, its a VERY different story .... In addition to that, lucas specs the size of the contact surfaces in almost all of its electrical switches about 1/3 to 1/2 the real size it needs to be to handle the current load without failure - I have disassembled/rebuilt switches for american and british cars of the time, and the difference is striking - and I say this as an Electrical Engineering student the way the circuits are divided up on british cars is also extremely pecular - I am not entirely sure why some things are wired the way they are, as one fuse may control two completely unrelated ciruits - it has been to long since I worked on a brit car for me to give an example - but I recall them being extremely odd american cars are MUCH more reliable than british on the whole - with the possible exception of anything Chrystler they are still cute cars tho - just high maitnence

Early (85-86) turbo - must be turbo disty from same era Late (87 - later) turbo - can be SPFI CAS or other FI car of that era no carb disty w/ turbo motor - they are completely difft units, electrically speaking If you want a simple dity with a fuel injection system other than the factory one, with no knock control, yes an EA-82 carb one will work. The wiring harness for EA82T soobs is not hard to work with - so I don't see why you should not want to keep it original