85Sub4WD

If you want to depressureize the system, just unplug the connector to the fuel pump (in front of right rear tire - behind protective plate), and crank engine for about 30 seconds (give the starter at least two breaks) if it starts, let it run 'till it dies. Your system is now depressureized.

gee, both my cam seals are factory original and starting to leak guess I know what I'll be doing next time I'm under the hood :-\ thanks for the info!

Nice car, hope you get it runnin' Are you sure your coil is getting proper juice at the proper times? (12V on coil's positive contact when ig switch on) To figure out if it is your control unit/system causing the problem: Wire a light btwn coil negative and battery positive with the ignition on, it should flash when you crank, if it does bad coil, otherwise bad control unit/system. It might be a good idea to take a disty out of an 84 car (I don't know which mods will work), and wire it in. I know some/all have a completely internal breakerless system that is very reliable (what I had on my car prior to SPFI), but it was in an OHC engine.

That is called a preheat tube. Most carbuerated cars need &/or have that to prevent icing of the carb's throat during warm-up and to allow it to generally run better at lower temps. (keeps fuel/air mixture more volitile at a higher temp) Fuel Injected cars don't need them because the computer can accomidate low temps in other ways.

The Loyale is a lot like a DL, with a few extra options. The I/P is that of a GL, but it lacks many of the little options, like most (if not all) don't have a trip-computer, D/R 4WD (though SOME do), and maplights. I think the overall product is a good one; simpler -> fewer things can go wrong -> more reliable I have a 1985 GL wagon, and I love it, but I have not driven a Loyale to compare the difference in handling.

well, when I did mine was after it had been front-ended when a moron pulled out in front of my mom going the wrong way - so compared to the bodywork I was doing at the time, it was VERY easy for me, and I already had the front end apart Skip also has a good suggestion for a temporary fix, but realize that the pump still needs service I generally do not run more than 15w-40 b/c my lash adjusters start sticking open, but with Marvel Mystery Oil you should be fine

My mom's Aerostar (yes a Ford product) had the computer die on it and start shooting gas everywhere, including out the tailpipe. Head gasket blew about 10,000 miles later (hey, we had 197,000 on it then, and 245,000 on it now) anyway, I would check/replace the ECU too, because they can die like that

He is correct, more voltage, bigger gap, better performance because better (and bigger) spark to ignite the mixture - know people who have been racing for years who follow this technique without any problems, and improved performance.

reseal/replace oil pump - it's not that hard to do at all, and it will fix your problem - might take the oppertunity to change all those leaky front seals (and timing belts) as long as both cars are 4WD I believe the clutch is interchangeable, but you might as well buy a new one (given labor and everything - OEM lasts the longest) - don't forget to have the flywheel turned when you do the clutch change

make sure it's not the road itself too - I thought my whole front end was coming apart on one strech of highway, just to get the same feeling when I drove another car down it!! (though I have manual steering, so I feel a lot more!)

don't drive it much probably low on gear oil - check tranny and rear diff if it hasn't been changed recently, do so

probably; but not always, some guys look to make sure that everything fits all nice-and-neat, others don't. If it was off enough to shear bolts, then he should have noticed, but if you provided him with the water pump, then it is not his fault. basically, I don't know

Should not damage engine if 1/2 qt or less, but after that you will start foaming oil. Do what brus brother said to do, and get them to fill it to the proper level.

Um... it looks like that Needless to say, that's not how I would have done it ... It looks like he is running his alt. off the power steering pump pully look at all the broken bits of belt all over the alternator - baaaaad

I know that NGK are the best, but I don't know exactally which ones. Your owner's manual with have the correct plug gap, unless you have a high-performance coil, in which case it would be slightly greater. I seem to remember people complaining about the irridium plugs, but I am not sure. (I know Bosch platnum has issues)

Pretty much, but ramengines.com is mainly geared toward aircraft which operate for long periods at a particular rpm, so I don't know how well some of their kit would work on cars, but much of it would be very useable.

May I ask why you are abandoning your EA82?

OK, the best suggestion I have is to get a Factory Service Manual for the car. They are hard to find (keep an eye on Ebay), but they are an EXCELLENT resource to have. (I recently got one for my car and could not be happier with it.) I am willing to bet that you have a bad turn signal switch, which can be verified with a multimeter, and removing the steering column covers. I would also double-check the turn signal flasher unit and make sure that EVERYTHING is grounded as it should be. Are you sure you have the 1980-1989 Haynes manual? It has been acurate on all the early soobs I have seen (1980-1984). The 1980-1994 does not cover your car well at all, but it covers the 1985-1994 ones well! It is obvious to me that some previous owner has tampered with your electrical system regardless of what you have done because circuits are operating when the fuse that is supposed to be protecting them is removed. At this point, it may be a good idea to get a professional automotive electrician in to look at the changes made, and restore everything to original specs. I have a great deal of expierence working on automotive electrical systems, and I have seen many instances on older cars where some previous owner screwed around with the system, and now it is really messed-up. I am sincerely sorry you are having this problem and hope you can get it fixed easily!

The first real upgrade you could do is to swap the heads with MPFI heads. The stock SPFI/Carb heads do not allow as much airflow in/out as the MPFI heads; therefore you would be limited as to the amount of upgrading you could do by the amout of airflow available. These carbs may all work, and would be upgrades, but carbueration is inherently inferior to fuel injection because carbs put resistance on the incoming air to allow for the venturi to dispense/mix gas in it. Fuel injection systems cram as much air into the engine as they can and meter the fuel to match, based on sensor input. Therefore, because it allows for more air to enter the combustion chamber, and because it can match that additional air with additional fuel, fuel injection is superior. Tho still a flat four, a Porsche engine would be cheating :-p

I've actually used something like those (craftsman equivalent) and really liked them, but you have to use your own handstrength to hold it on the valve while loosening it. (they are also not that cheap) There are also needle-nose vise grips available. I have a pair and use them all the time because they are easy to use, and can fit in tight places.

It would probably be easier to build/buy a different fuel control unit and slap that on. I am at present (somewhat) trying to crack the TBI computer but with no luck. All programming is done in C and that is a pain to mess with, and I still have not figured out how to read the PROM on the circuit board. If anyone has info I would appreciate it. BTW - for those with 87+ turbos, if your computer was hacked, it would be possible to totally eliminate the fuel cut system, and maintain otherwise normal performance without messing with anything else. Just a thought ... Are all of you forgetting about MPFI N/A? Just put bigger injectors in and use a spider manifold with an XT6 TB Better airflow and better performance - just have to swap the cylinder heads.

Um, this might be because I prefer sleepers and stealth but .... I think you all have a little too much time on your hands (look who's talking!)

That's disgusting, I mean really. I guess that was a case of a spoiled brat driving a Brat. Tho I will say that given where I live, I see that sort of thing more often than I would like. A kid gets a car (like a BMW), destroys it, and his/her parents get him/her a better one (like a newer BMW). For some reason, I don't think that is teaching junior a good lesson, it is just spoiling him even more. (He might have learned something if he was trapped in it and had to be freed after he jumped it into a pond.) Maybe I get pissed b/c my family doesn't have a 6-figure income, but really, that's just flat-out wasting money. If I wrecked my car now (or some ***hole in a hemi-powered POS that can't stop ran into me), I would have to WORK to replace it, my parents would not automatically go out and buy me another one (might help if it was the other person's fault). Hence I TAKE CARE OF WHAT I HAVE!!!!!!! OK, I am finished with my sermon now.

All soobs I know of have the fuse panel located on the left driver's side kickpanel, near where it connects to the rest of the dash. On your car, it will drop down with the fuses inside it. If you are looking elsewhere for a fuse, it is probably a bad flasher unit or bad turn signal switch.

ditto on that The SPFI system is simply not that flexable. I bet that if anyone hacks the ECU, we could get a LOT of power out of it just by piddling with the programming.