85Sub4WD

I saved a copy to my computer, which I can email you. I tried the link myself and it worked, so I think you may have an issue with your web browser. PM me and I can email you the manual (it is over 3Mb, so make sure you can handle it).

I did not even know Ford made a "Maverick" - shows my era - anyway, I meant that the name neeeded more spice. These cars are better at offroading than many SUV's - Loyale implies that it is very docile - which it can be, but it can also be dangerous I have certainly been loyal to my GL, but I have also had adventures in it (like the time I was in a hurry and not paying attention to my speed and hit 70 in a 35 mph zone :cool: ) These cars have character!

I know all 1985 and 1986 models have them (along with other things like the lighter bumpers). I actually had to get a 1988 hood for my car a while back and now have the squirters on the hood, but haven't connected them. They are too honda-ish for me, and at the first oppertunity I get I will get a old-style hood without them. (I like an uncut look)

If the non-turbo is SPFI, then EVERYTHING is different (c'ept block, crank, and piston rods) If the non-turbo is MPFI, then should be *similar* - I know in 85/86 models, the computer knew whether or not it was a turbo by grounding/leaving open a pin on the ECU.

Two words : Vise Grips

Didn't think about the AIS b/c I never had that kind of trouble when mine was carbed. Glad I didn't tho

NO, difft compression ratio, wiring, everything. You would get REALLY lousy performance if you converted a turbo block to N/A b/c turbos have a 7.7:1 CR and non-turbos have a 9.5:1 CR for that year.

It could be that the Anti-Backfire valve has failed, because it sounds like it is not doing its job, or the EGR system is screwed up, or both. Check those then retune the carb.

Sounds like a bad ground issue. I would check all circuits involved for bad grounding, wires, etc. I don't think US justys have the clutch temp warning light, but I wouldn't know as I drive a GL (Leone). Good Luck!!

That is an interesting idea, I would be interested to see how it worked. A MPFI intake manifold/heads would work better for this kind of project because there already is a coolant bridge on the manifold, and there is a better intake setup. (larger diameter) Did anyone else notice the Fram oil filters on the engines

the 5-speed D/R were offered everywhere - look out west for one w/o rust we bought ours new in Florida twenty years ago there ARE some US 1992 Loyales with D/R trannies - I know of 2 in a junkyard, and yes they came from the factory that way

Some light polishing compound if washing in Pamalove dish detergent (and wiping with an old rag) dosen't work.

That's what I have ..... and they call me crazy for keeping it so long I don't use the 4WD like that tho

I'm glad I don't have an XT .... still think they look cool tho :cool:

true, but if you want a sleeper stngllhm is right tho, it is easier to find/buy a turbo

The '85 turbo and all later tubo models (through the loyale turbo in 1990, and not the legacy) get an '87 or later engine/electrical system - better performance overall (but have to deal with fuel cut problem) later the engine - the better, early ones had cracking issues

Liquid nitrogen is a bit extreme, but I assume your intake manifold is in good shape, and it is better to hurt the PCV valve which you are pitching anyway, than to mar your manifold, which could be difficult to replace. (breaking 25 year-old bolts loose will not be easy)

See tscinmd, I told you someone would have it BTW - you will want the stock oil cap b/c aftermarket ones (like the one you have now) tend to leak (must be airtight) and cause performance issues (vacuum leak). Have Fun

Umm ...... Why don't you cut your carbs and go with FI? It's quick, easy, and reliable. Some of the Austrailian / New Zealand cars have twin carbs - get an intake manifold from them and save yourself the trouble.

Put an add on this board for the plastic piece, I am sure someone will be able to cough it up. Stuck PCV ......... I am thinking soaking it in WD-40 and/or liquid wrench. Be sure to take the spare tire out when working on it - makes life easier (I know on EA82's they are easy to get at with the spare tire out) If above methods don't work, I would try freezing the PCV valve with liquid nitrogen. I would not recomend heating the manifold because I don't like putting that kind of stress on the aluminium, but you might have to as a last resort.

The 4WD tanks are smaller to give the rear diff extra space. I don't know if a 2WD tank will fit in your car if you have 4WD, but you can try

Oh, I am not putting any faith in it - I said they LOOK similar (If I had faith in it, I would not have gotten a FSM!!) Also, Subaru uses the same diagram for the fuel systems in both cars (I have part of an EA81 FSM), they just change the place of two things in the system

:slobber: :slobber: :slobber: :slobber: BEAUTIFUL CAR Geezz, I wish I had something that goregous - NO RUST :eek::eek: OK, that looks like it is related to the PCV system. I assume there is a miniature filter-like thing on the other side of the hose going into the manifold (unless it comes in on the inside of the air filter). You will need to replace it, and you should be able to find it in a junkyard without any problem. (and an OEM oil cap ) I am not 100% sure as it has been some time since I messed with an EA81/EA71, but I am pretty sure that's what it is, if not please let me know.

All turbo soobs through 85 were automatic tranny only, so all Turbo Brats should be auto.

I would not lose sleep over it. 1st the tranny is rock-solid 2nd it is normal if you have been driving it b/c the gear teeth pick up and circulate the gear oil.