85Sub4WD

there is a viewing area at the back of the engine for setting timing - a rubber plug covers it - there are holes in the flywheel for you to put something to lock it I've also found putting it in 5th gear, 4WD lo and setting the emergency brake works too

probably was - those who have A/C in their EA82's know what I am talking about; the DL body is also a LOT lighter than the GL's which has some affect too (they don't have the trim, electronics (complicated I/C) and such - still, 50mpg is wayyy high for a DL even... dunno - the 87+ had a higher CR than earlier ones, which helps with fuel economy too... not unheard of for FWD cars - probably b/c they are lighter and don't have the resistance on the rear from the 4WD system

any seat out of an EA82 subaru should fit - what that means is any Loyale, or GL/DL from 1985-1989 (except for brat and the hatchback (ea81 cars)) - the late 80's GL-10's had the nicest interior, and the nicest seats the GL-10 was the highest trim level available for that bodystyle from the factory Legacy seats may fit with modification

no - and Numbchux is correct as to why - turning actually improves dramatically on these cars under acceleration (exception is when accelerating from stop, you will spin one wheel) - with the proper technique, you can actually use your engine to add traction and "pull" yourself around curves - that's why I can go down a mountain at an insane speed - the only reason you may have issues, is if your front suspension (particularly sway-bar related components) is not working properly of you work the physics force vectors on the wheels on curves with acceleration, you will see what I am talking about - whey you accelerate in a curve, you decrease the effect that the inertia of the car moving forward has on the road - it's really simple actually if you do the same force vector setup for RWD (much more difficult), you will see why RWD is a disadvantage, because the rear end will want to slide out, and put additional strain on the forward wheels the reason that Subarus do it MUCH better than other FWD cars is what Numbchux said - it's all about the rotating mass inequality in the transversely mounted engine designs that contributes to the problem (different length axles), also given that mounting the engine on top of the tranny makes EVERYTHING sit higher, and it increases the height of your CG, subarus have an abnormally low CG for their size due to how the engine is mounted, and that it is a flat four - another issue that is mainly a problem with US Domestic manufacturers is that they tend to put the tie rod ends behind the front axle, which causes crappy handling period (jerky, unresponsive) most racecars are RWD for two reasons - tradition (think NASCAR - heck, they still run with carbs....), or because they are wanting to transmit insane amounts of power, and it is simply easier to do that with a RWD configuation (think Formula 1) - pure acceleration is better for RWD cars too, but FWD/AWD will still have a turning advantage, and AWD has advantages over both drive methods for pure acceleration because you are driving ALL wheels, so you have more grip for startoffs BTW - numerous famous/legendary rally cars were FWD - the ORIGINAL mini cooper of the 1960's beat the heck out of everything else due to size, and the handeling, Datsun also had one, but I can't remember the name of it off the top of my head - the (in)famous Traction Advant (by Citroen I think) was FWD, and it used a very similar design to subaru for it I've had the pleasure to drive FWD and RWD cars, and my expierence has taught me that each drivetrain has its pros and cons, but you have to adapt your driving technique get the most out of each one;if anything, AWD is the only one that is really best in all conditions

sorry, but it isn't that easy - they are specifically designed to fail at a particular point, normal wires usually have some overhead, which could cause a dangerous overload situation - if you can reuse the ones from the orig. harness, you should be set; otherwise, you will need to buy them from an auto parts store - most any should have them because virtually all cars I have seen have some sort of fusible link protecting the alternator - you shouldn't have trouble finding them, and generics should work fine I will have to check the body on my alt. later for the correct markings - I have physics class in a few minutes, and I got to go to that now! Cheers!

to be honest, I really don't see any advantage beyond the sport value of burnouts of RWD - the car has a decent weight distribution for FWD, and with good, careful throttle control, you can do a heck of a lot more on curves with a FWD car than a RWD car (you can use the drive to "pull" the car through turns) - I have driven both types, and by far prefer FWD if I have to choose between the two (AWD/4WD for slick conditions is best, AWD is best period for street) the only thing that is aggrivating with FWD is when they put the engine in sideways bottom line, don't do anything you can't reverse!! tranny output gears should be fine if it is D/R - I know S/R trannies have sheared the output gears on people, probably because the vacuum engage didn't go all the way or something, dunno - it's been a while since the person posted the problem good luck!!

I would recommend against demolition derbying these cars - while they are extremely safe from the passenger standpoint in collisions, the engine/drivetrain are rather suceptable to front end damage, so it won't work well at all - you'll be immobilized very quickly; given that you said that they are rustbuckets, that only will make the situation worse, both from the running standpoint, and from the safety standpoint - realize that these cars can be worth ~$2k if the rust is fixed properly, and the drivetrain is solid & 4WD they actually tend to sell for more than a BMW 3-series of the same era and comporable condition - a BMW 5 would probably be a good demolition derby car too ..... and they are REALLY CHEAP (the ones between 1982-1988), but a REAL pain to work on (no OBD for the engine computer ... period!!) if you are talking about a dirt-track derby, that is a different matter alltogeter - you beat the heck out of anything else there with the 4WD - rally is the most popular sport for these cars

OK, I looked it all up: the fusible link is rated for ~21 Amps because the wire diameter is 1.25 square mm and the fsm specs that as the max allowable current for the wire - run a LARGE gauge wire for this lead!! the stock wire is rated for 51A!!- note: fusible link not fuse - fusible link is a small, sacrificial piece of wire, not a bus or cartridge fuse - fuses behave very differently than fusible links the white/red stripe wire at the base of the T on the small connector goes to dash warning lights - it should be a smaller wire the black/white stripe wire at the top of the "T" on the small connector goes to the battery as well, through a .85 square mm fusible link (~16A) hope that gets you somwhere!!

by the sound of it, you could easily have a cracked head/block - while aluminum does allow a lot of expansion/contraction, it does have limits, and freezing it will break stuff do what Phizinza said, and degrease, look for new, and that should give you a good idea as to where it is comming from - at best it will be a gasket (could even be valve cover gaskets, which are prone to leaking) - at worst, something will be cracked good luck!!

Skip has you on the right track - also make sure the ignition coil has a good ground for the bracket - a must for the amplifier to work properly (same problem puzzled me for some time before I realized the problem) - given your code, I doubt it is something too serious - if you don't get a crank angle sensor or starter trouble code, generally that means the ECU is sending the ignition pulse out - if you have a multimeter, check for +12V on the + side of the ignition coil whenever the ignition switch is on, check the fusible links too - make sure you also check cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc. (mainly as a percaution) good luck

1) yes, the coil bracket MUST have a good earth/ground 2) can't recall for small wires, but know large wire goes through fusible link to battery + ; there are no relays involved the alt grounds through the body - you should have a full-sized battery cable running in near the starter from the - side of the battery - this is supposed to ground the engine and transmission, but another, smaller ground wire to the engine is also a good idea

the company I sourced a while back (don't remember name) had a sealent that you were supposed to coat the gasket with after you did the heat-prepping (to make the copper soft) - I think it is/was intended to do exactally what you are talking about - they advised it even for O-ringed engines - not to mention that the gasket had to be PERFECTLY flat prior to installation, and could not be hammered/bent/creased one note about o-ringing - it would probably be good if possible, to O-ring the coolant passages as well as the cylinders because the thermal load can be significant, esp. on turbo engines with the stock turbo coolant piping. yes, coppers are more difficult to work with, but they also offer the most economically sound performance edge over stock

brake booster is a BIG hose - you should not consiter disconnecting it - no power assist on brakes is a BAAAD thing EGR is the valve located on the passenger side rear of the intake manifold - you should see it easily - it has a tube that goes into the manifold near it from the head - it recirculates a small amount of exhaust gasses through the combustion chamber for a variety of environmental and driveability reasons ASV's are a piece of crap that cause a lot of problems - look under the car, near where the exhaust flange connects to the head - on both sides you should see metal pipes comming out of the head near the flange on either side of the car - they are held on with two ten mil bolts, loosen them on each side, and shove a quarter in, retighten the car will run quieter and smoother sorry, did not realize you were intl - don't know what your emissions stuff is

if it doesn't go to the disty, or (maybe) the EGR, it can go - make sure your ASV's are thourghly blocked too sorry, no ideas on how to get a pdf of a carb FSM online, the only ones I know/have access to online are for FI cars, I have my own 1985 FSM, ebay is pretty cheap usually - most any 85-87 should cover carbed cars which version? NA pre-87, turbo pre-87, NA 87+, turbo 87+??

no - spline count is 23 for EA81 and EA82 (except for turbo MT and 4EAT) - that is the only difference - I think there is a writeup in the USRM about this conversion - trannies are the same width, spline count, etc. the propellor shafts are different too, the EA81 4MT has a single-piece shorter one, the EA82 is a longer driveshaft, and it has a carrier bearing - it is possible to shim the 4MT driveshaft, but it is not the prefered method

dunno, mine never gave me problems so I didn't screw with it - I think it probably would run fine - if it backfires, reinstall it

you'll need the 4WD flywheel - the clutch is very different for the 2WD car - they all interchange on the engines, but I think the 4WD flywheel should be identical so that it will mount to the tranny as well

shifter slop is a common problem - it is related to linkage and not tranny internals, so it is pretty easy to fix (by comparison) don't know how easy the tranny linkage is to access in a 2WD model, but I know it is a pain in the 4WD ones because of the driveshaft - get some nylon washers from the hardware store and you should be good-to-go the tranny should take ~2.7Qt (75w90, api-gl5 of course for the diff) you are going to go crazy when you see the price of the oil, but Mobil 1 or Redline are the only two that are worth putting in, otherwise 2nd gear will be your mortal enemy (been there...) there is a dipstick for the tranny oil on the passenger side that should be easily visible when you remove the spare tire the front diff and transmission share the same lubricant (the auto does not - in 4wd cars, the transfer case shares the same lube & housing too - nice, neat and compact - but heavy!!) the drainplug is easy to find, located right behind the front crossmember, it is a big bolt at the center & bottom of the tranny btw- you probably just need to reseal the pump, but it would still be a good thing to replace it - some Marvel Mystery oil in the engine oil tends to help those stupid HLA's too - I'd try that before I bother with tearing into it, especially if it is comming from only one or two cylinders good luck

did you check the switch?? lights themselves?? (give 'em 12v, they light up??) As you say it is an 84' I assume you mean that it uses 4 sealed beams?? if it's sealed beams, it should be easy enough to rig something with scrap wire and a few blade connectors....

I didn't know they were also made for airplanes - I knew about the submarine application because I got to take a tour of a WWII era sub with that style engine in it - don't remember if it was German or American Airplane use of diesel engines is a relatively new phenomonon - one of my grandfathers is a Korean War vet from the Air Force - actually he worked on ground control at Miami International Airport until about a year ago (retired) - he mentioned how diesel aircraft are starting to catch on. I like the concept of diesel aircraft engines because diesel fuel is far less volitile than gasoline, and it does not vaporize as easily. Diesel also has more btu's of heat in it (more stored energy), so it would allow for longer flights with a smaller fuel tank. (that's why diesel pickup trucks can get 20+mpg, and VW diesels get 40+ mpg) The only downside I would see is that it gels at low temps, so I would expect high-altitude flyers would need to have the tanks heated (which they probably already do). Still, it is cool .....

i know there was a EA81 diesel, but I think it had a funny casting and all (for the forklift) - only problem with it in the car is that it made ~30hp, prolly lots of torque, but you won't win any drag races..... the horizontally opposed engines you are looking at are (I think) used in submarines, they are massive things too - the engine internals for EA engines is completely different in piston configuration than the engines you are looking at - the "flat four" or traditional "horizontally opposed" means the pistons point away from each other; not facing each other as in the pictures you are showing; actually it would be impossible to make a subaru engine block run in that configuraton without SERIOUS modifications, including piston sleeves as the combustion chambers are shaped differently still it is a neat design

what you fail to realize is that by the time it actually reaches the intake, the exhaust gas isn't that hot - granted it is still over 100F, but I got nothing over 120F using a laser thermometer on the body (better than 1% accuracy) - in terms of temp, it is pretty insignificant when you consiter you ambient around here is ~70F - not to mention the fact that the EGR's oriface is a precision aperature, intended to allow a specific (and small) amount of air in - not to mention the fact that it prolongs engine life by decreasing the combustion chamber temperature - as I said, a properly functioning EGR will not hurt performance, say what you will, but I've got the #'s and expierence to prove my point; not to mention the automotive engineering design theories behind the principle (theory + proven theory = fact) I converted my car to SPFI from Carb - I kinda have a good idea as to how the FI system works, seeing as how I had to install it all from scratch - and I am definately making the 90+ hp of the SPFI system (from the 82 of carb), b/c I have done other stuff as well, I have been working on that engine since I was in 5th grade, I know how to service it properly the only time intake temp is really an issue is with turbocharging, hence the principal behind the intercooler, but the turbo bodies get to MUCH higher temps, and ALL the intake air goes through them BTW, the egr valve shuts exhaust flow by sticking a metal plunger down into the exhaust gas passageway, sealing it off, if you just put a metal plate over where the EGR valve is supposed to go an don't put an indentation or something to cutoff air flow, you are essientially causing a stuck-open EGR valve condition, rather than blocking it off if you have dismantled the valve, you know what I am talking about - easiest way to deactivate the EGR system is to disconenct the vacuum hose to the valve, and plug the vac hose with a BB or something creative

not really, because the input port is extremely close to the base of the TB I have run with a working EGR, and with a blocked EGR - !!NO MAJOR DIFFERENCE!! - because I try to be environmentally conscious, I leave mine working - I think my fuel economy is slightly better with the working EGR, and the engine seems smoother - some cars (particularly Datsuns) had EGRs before they were required for emissions reasons because of improved driveability and fuel economy; the only reason you would get improved fuel mileage by disableing one is if the EGR system was not running properly in the first place you are welcome to debate all you want, and if you use the search function, you will find many MORE debates on this subject, bottom line is that it is a matter of personal pereference. the egr valves can generally be cleaned (proceedure is covered in FSM, or any aftermarket manual), and therefore are supposed to have an indefinate service life. My vote is to fix it and leave it connected, partially because the computer does funky stuff when you mess around with sensors & such.

the hill holder is a matter of personal pereference - but you do need some sort of return spring if you aren't using it I think 32 mm is right for the axle nut

very funny - after having to deal with a friend's RX-7 Turbo II, I NEVER WANT TO SEE A ROTARY ENGINE AGAIN!! Have you guys ever flooded one?? do you know what a PITA it is to "unflood" it (rotarys don't naturally "unflood" with time because the gas gets trapped in different sections divided by the rotors) - not to mention the FI system is absolutely crap - if you don't fully warm the car up before cutting it off, the ECU will flood the engine, they also have a "pulsation dampener" that does nothing, but can cause a massive gas leak if it breaks (which is common) - the redline for the Turbo II is also at 6k - an EA82 with a 6.5k redline could easily outrev it before the RX blew its apex seals - wayy to much trouble for me, I like my reciprocating pistons, and my torque